Nightmare On Elm Street Part 1 Freddy Glove

[Mr Mold Maker]

Hey folks! Been a while since I’ve had anything to share. I had some free time, and I’ve always really wanted to make myself a Freddy Glove. I had made attempts years ago that never quite reached my standards. Happy to say that I’ve just made my first Part One Glove, and I am thrilled with the results.

While it is certainly not down to the dent screen accurate, it is very screen “authentic”. What I mean by that is to the best of my ability, I used the exact same templates, the exact same materials, and exact same techniques, used to construct the original glove.

The stalls and tips are made out of 3/4” Type M Copper Pipe. The backplate and rings are made of .02 brass. The blades are .02 spring steel brazed on to the tips with a high silver content brazing wire. I tried to replicate everything down to individual brazing and solder spills. Other small details I replicated include the small hole next to the rivet on the ring stall, the slanted ring on the ring tip, and the slightly curved pinky blade.






Hope you like it. I also shot a short video where I show close ups and also movement of the glove.

I do paint commissions very frequently and plan on uploading short videos showing techniques and finished commissions, as well as builds like this. If that sounds like something that interests you, feel free to subscribe as well!

Many thanks,
J

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

If anybody else is interested in building a glove for themselves, here are templates taken from the original Part 1/2 glove.

If you don’t care too much for authenticity, you could easily switch from brazing to soldering blades on which would save on costs and still give you a great glove.

 

[DeLano80]

Great work! This has always been on my to do list.

 

[stussy]

looks like the real thing to me,great.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

It's taken me this long to realize that there's high-silver brazing wire. I've just been using silver solder and it just doesn't hold very well.

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

Thanks folks! Appreciate the comments.

Great work! This has always been on my to do list.

Go for it! They are a whole lot of fun to make.

It's taken me this long to realize that there's high-silver brazing wire. I've just been using silver solder and it just doesn't hold very well.

I used Harris 56% Silver brazing wire and their brazing flux. It’s a little pricy but trust me, so worth it. The stuff worked perfectly and those blades aren’t going anywhere!

I mentioned on Instagram I’d chat with you about the reds later. Guess now counts as later! Haha.. The trick for the red coloring is to heat from the top while you braze, and then switch to the bottom and heat until nearly red hot. Quickly quench in water. You should have beautiful red and orange hues with black edges.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

I mentioned on Instagram I’d chat with you about the reds later. Guess now counts as later! Haha.. The trick for the red coloring is to heat from the top while you braze, and then switch to the bottom and heat until nearly red hot. Quickly quench in water. You should have beautiful red and orange hues with black edges.

I figured it had to do something with not just heat but how long/where I heated the copper because I got reds on one finger with a similar technique (no water though). Before then, I was just getting yellows and oranges just heating from the top.

 

[Freddy krueger6]

Was the curved pinky in the build scene

 

[Patriot666]

Would you mind sharing your method for weathering the backplate please? It looks great! Mr Mold Maker

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

Would you mind sharing your method for weathering the backplate please? It looks great! Mr Mold Maker

It’s been quite a while but if I recall correctly I just heated the brass from the underside with MAP gas. Just absolutely blasted it until I got what I wanted, you have to play around with it. I think people going for accuracy tend to use the heat patina as a base and modify it with liver of sulphur to do things like the little check mark and what not.

 

[Patriot666]

It’s been quite a while but if I recall correctly I just heated the brass from the underside with MAP gas. Just absolutely blasted it until I got what I wanted, you have to play around with it. I think people going for accuracy tend to use the heat patina as a base and modify it with liver of sulphur to do things like the little check mark and what not.

Thank you!!!

 

[akirasdaddy1]

T

If anybody else is interested in building a glove for themselves, here are templates taken from the original Part 1/2 glove.

If you don’t care too much for authenticity, you could easily switch from brazing to soldering blades on which would save on costs and still give you a great glove.

To get the template the perfect size do you print it on 8.5 by 11 inch paper?

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

To get the template the perfect size do you print it on 8.5 by 11 inch paper?

Yes I think so. You may need to make sure your printer doesn’t automatically add edges or borders or it will print too small. I vaguely remember that being an issue. It has been so long that I don’t remember the specifics.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

T

To get the template the perfect size do you print it on 8.5 by 11 inch paper?

Yes I think so. You may need to make sure your printer doesn’t automatically add edges or borders or it will print too small. I vaguely remember that being an issue. It has been so long that I don’t remember the specifics.

Yep, the available templates are scaled for 8.5x11 but it must be printed in full without boarders or made to fit. You'll wind up with a proportionately smaller glove otherwise.

 

[Wyzzy93]

Is there any chance you could give me an accurate measurement of on of the pieces so I can check I am printing at the correct size. Using different settings on my printer is giving me a whole host of slightly different sizes, I'm not sure which is correct.
The lengths of the finger stem parts measured from the glove would be great.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

Is there any chance you could give me an accurate measurement of on of the pieces so I can check I am printing at the correct size. Using different settings on my printer is giving me a whole host of slightly different sizes, I'm not sure which is correct.
The lengths of the finger stem parts measured from the glove would be great.

A little variance shouldn't be too much of a problem. The index finger stem of my glove is ~8.2cm long. Anything near that should be okay.

 

[Wyzzy93]

A little variance shouldn't be too much of a problem. The index finger stem of my glove is ~8.2cm long. Anything near that should be okay.

Brilliant thanks!

 

[Funky]

I am not the Freddy glove specialist by any measure, but I thought I remember hearing during the production of the first movie the blade of the index finger broke in half and they had to solder it together. Hence this...

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

I am not the Freddy glove specialist by any measure, but I thought I remember hearing during the production of the first movie the blade of the index finger broke in half and they had to solder it together. Hence this...

That is correct. It is seen in the film both broken and unbroken so for P1 it is down to preference. P2 always has the break. The glove in my initial post was done clean, but I did make a sister glove to it which has the break. Never ended up mounting it on leather though. My original glove above was gifted to a good friend who has since passed.

 

[codyhillyer]

Hey folks! Been a while since I’ve had anything to share. I had some free time, and I’ve always really wanted to make myself a Freddy Glove. I had made attempts years ago that never quite reached my standards. Happy to say that I’ve just made my first Part One Glove, and I am thrilled with the results.

While it is certainly not down to the dent screen accurate, it is very screen “authentic”. What I mean by that is to the best of my ability, I used the exact same templates, the exact same materials, and exact same techniques, used to construct the original glove.

The stalls and tips are made out of 3/4” Type M Copper Pipe. The backplate and rings are made of .02 brass. The blades are .02 spring steel brazed on to the tips with a high silver content brazing wire. I tried to replicate everything down to individual brazing and solder spills. Other small details I replicated include the small hole next to the rivet on the ring stall, the slanted ring on the ring tip, and the slightly curved pinky blade.




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Hope you like it. I also shot a short video where I show close ups and also movement of the glove.

I do paint commissions very frequently and plan on uploading short videos showing techniques and finished commissions, as well as builds like this. If that sounds like something that interests you, feel free to subscribe as well!

Many thanks,
J

Could you tell me where to purchase the brass from ? I can’t seem to find it