PHArchivist
Master Member
In the MR pics, I think the visible base is too white to be screen-accurate, but I still really like it!
New BMF coming
- Thread starter Jimmer
- Start date
spacebob
Sr Member
Super thin engine vent casting Fail.
The idea is to use an old ertl tie fighter wing as the mold itself as its actually inverted to the real thing, I'm sure Jaitea tried something similar but I cant find the post now.
What I tried to do was put some mold release on the wing,(I tried some slippery stuff we use for putting on the machine beds at work) and then put a very thin layer of expanding glue on some paper and then clamp to the wing but it just stuck, Thank god I've got three spare tie wings for some reason.
I will try the same process but with pva as that really shouldn't stick.
If it does work then it will make basically detailed paper that isn't much thicker than the stickers that come with toy
The idea is to use an old ertl tie fighter wing as the mold itself as its actually inverted to the real thing, I'm sure Jaitea tried something similar but I cant find the post now.
What I tried to do was put some mold release on the wing,(I tried some slippery stuff we use for putting on the machine beds at work) and then put a very thin layer of expanding glue on some paper and then clamp to the wing but it just stuck, Thank god I've got three spare tie wings for some reason.
I will try the same process but with pva as that really shouldn't stick.
If it does work then it will make basically detailed paper that isn't much thicker than the stickers that come with toy
spacebob
Sr Member
Painting this thing black and then misting over in the white is definitely the way I'm going to do it
You can stop when its very nearly white and all those nooks and undercuts will be nice and shadowed already.
There seem to be some very dark scratches/damage on the real thing so masking those off when its black and peeling away the mask just before the last mists of white go on will look sweet too.
Does anyone have experience with the hairspray masking technique that ends up looking like slightly peeling paint? although is not on the real thing It could look good if used subtly.
You can stop when its very nearly white and all those nooks and undercuts will be nice and shadowed already.
There seem to be some very dark scratches/damage on the real thing so masking those off when its black and peeling away the mask just before the last mists of white go on will look sweet too.
Does anyone have experience with the hairspray masking technique that ends up looking like slightly peeling paint? although is not on the real thing It could look good if used subtly.
spacebob
Sr Member
Oh yes success, It needs a bit of refining but it works.
click to love the pic.
Now this is a piece of kitchen towel painted with pva and pressed into the tie wing after my release agent was dabbed onto it, the release agent isn't working too well and it pulled some of the original paint on the wing away with the paper but it looks ok and it gives me 8 vertical lines across the diameter of the circle area which is perfect for the 32".
Gave it a quick coat of primer and that's a bingo.
It's paper thin and now I don't have to cut the vents out which looked like a pain in the .....
Also here is the triangle bit cut out with the walls cut down to the details so all i need to do is make new walls outside the old ones.
success, It needs a bit of refining but it works. click to love the pic.Now this is a piece of kitchen towel painted with pva and pressed into the tie wing after my release agent was dabbed onto it, the release agent isn't working too well and it pulled some of the original paint on the wing away with the paper but it looks ok and it gives me 8 vertical lines across the diameter of the circle area which is perfect for the 32".
Gave it a quick coat of primer and that's a bingo.
It's paper thin and now I don't have to cut the vents out which looked like a pain in the .....
Also here is the triangle bit cut out with the walls cut down to the details so all i need to do is make new walls outside the old ones.
tek2graphics
Sr Member
NICE!!! :thumbsup
Oh yes
View attachment 413380 click to love the pic.
Now this is a piece of kitchen towel painted with pva and pressed into the tie wing after my release agent was dabbed onto it, the release agent isn't working too well and it pulled some of the original paint on the wing away with the paper but it looks ok and it gives me 8 vertical lines across the diameter of the circle area which is perfect for the 32".
Gave it a quick coat of primer and that's a bingo.
It's paper thin and now I don't have to cut the vents out which looked like a pain in the .....
View attachment 413381
Also here is the triangle bit cut out with the walls cut down to the details so all i need to do is make new walls outside the old ones.
TronGod
Active Member
I was thinking that if you did a mold of the tie wing, then pour a thin layer of resin in..You would get what you were talking about.. It would just be hard to get it just right tho.Super thin engine vent casting Fail.
The idea is to use an old ertl tie fighter wing as the mold itself as its actually inverted to the real thing, I'm sure Jaitea tried something similar but I cant find the post now.
What I tried to do was put some mold release on the wing,(I tried some slippery stuff we use for putting on the machine beds at work) and then put a very thin layer of expanding glue on some paper and then clamp to the wing but it just stuck, Thank god I've got three spare tie wings for some reason.
I will try the same process but with pva as that really shouldn't stick.
If it does work then it will make basically detailed paper that isn't much thicker than the stickers that come with toy
Hmm..You know I did do something with the sculpmold once by pressing it into a mold
Might be worth trying..will let you know if anything comes of it.Okay this part some of you are doing has been confusing me. If this part is accurate why are you cutting it out and adding new walls???
Thanks
Tom
Because the parts walls are flush with the armor plating, you need to cut it out and make new walls outside of the parts base to have the armor overhang.
It should look like its glued from behind not added through the top.
I hope that makes sense.
TronGod
Active Member
I'm no expert as to what it really is.. but one of the tubs says Resin on it..so I just call it that
...but its not the normal burn your hands off a-b resin most would think of
TronGod
Active Member
You can see it in this picture..See how the details continue underneath the hull panels. Looks MUCH better this way. Looks less like a toy, also helps make the model look in scale more by having these thin panels overhang it.
Ahh,.. Crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I'm gonna have to cut these all out.
I assume it's like this for all of them??????
- - - Updated - - -
Yep, looks much better. Gonna have to do it. Crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks guys
TronGod
Active Member
Hmm guess you are right..that saves me from a lot of trouble!
Hunk a Junk
Sr Member
On the 5-footer, the round access openings on the mandibles undercut. https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=B9FE0AEBDC25FDBC&id=B9FE0AEBDC25FDBC!4080&v=3
On the Ep VII full-scale set, they do not. http://i3.mirror.co.uk/tv/tv-news/a...es/s2197/Screen-Shot-2014-09-18-at-214416.png
On the Ep VII full-scale set, they do not. http://i3.mirror.co.uk/tv/tv-news/a...es/s2197/Screen-Shot-2014-09-18-at-214416.png
Hunk a Junk
Sr Member
To be fair, on the Episode VII full-scale Falcon, we can only see the bottom of the mandibles, so who knows what the top is like.
I'm still debating whether I'll undercut the circular openings. It's a question of whether it will be one of those things that will nag at me every time I look at the model.
I'm still debating whether I'll undercut the circular openings. It's a question of whether it will be one of those things that will nag at me every time I look at the model.
