Narcissus Builders Club N Stuff.
- Thread starter jedimaster
- Start date
jedimaster
Sr Member
:thumbsup...Liked!
ghostryder
Legendary Member
Oh god, that cat! :lol
First engine pull. This one's no good - wet night tonight, this one foamed up on me. The mould pulls pretty cleanly though; I'll do the others the same way. (I mean, in terms of orientation for the pour, seam location etc...not 'in rubber' or something.) :lol
Pet peeve time: I swear guys...vac and pressure pots are nice and all but if you don't have one, Don't Panic. Just 1) orient the master for moulding in a way that will let air bubbles in the silicone rise away from the surface of as much of the part as possible, and 2) use a silicone that doesn't cure rapidly - overnight, or at least slowly enough to give the bubbles a chance to do their thing.
And 3) be sure you've got your pour spout in the best possible location. Turn your master over and over and mock up spouts with clay or whatever you prefer. Ask yourself 'will this bottleneck? Will air get past this undercut as the resin flows in? Can I tilt the mould and get a better pour?' Etc.
I wound up with zero air bubbles anywhere near the surface of the part where I least want them, and when pouring resin the finished mould traps no air; it all comes out of the pour spout. Okay this is a simple shape and I know it isn't rocket science to many of you; it's just a drum that I bang every chance I get.
First engine pull. This one's no good - wet night tonight, this one foamed up on me. The mould pulls pretty cleanly though; I'll do the others the same way. (I mean, in terms of orientation for the pour, seam location etc...not 'in rubber' or something.) :lol
Pet peeve time: I swear guys...vac and pressure pots are nice and all but if you don't have one, Don't Panic. Just 1) orient the master for moulding in a way that will let air bubbles in the silicone rise away from the surface of as much of the part as possible, and 2) use a silicone that doesn't cure rapidly - overnight, or at least slowly enough to give the bubbles a chance to do their thing.
And 3) be sure you've got your pour spout in the best possible location. Turn your master over and over and mock up spouts with clay or whatever you prefer. Ask yourself 'will this bottleneck? Will air get past this undercut as the resin flows in? Can I tilt the mould and get a better pour?' Etc.I wound up with zero air bubbles anywhere near the surface of the part where I least want them, and when pouring resin the finished mould traps no air; it all comes out of the pour spout. Okay this is a simple shape and I know it isn't rocket science to many of you; it's just a drum that I bang every chance I get.
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You're all welcome to come visit Thailand, plenty of 'models' to go see :-D
I also need to visit Perth again soon as I have family there.
Looks like the last pieces of the pie are coming together now. The first finishing piece could be just a few weeks away!
I also need to visit Perth again soon as I have family there.
Looks like the last pieces of the pie are coming together now. The first finishing piece could be just a few weeks away!
Sounds good, haha. We definitely have to catch up while you're here, too.
Yup! Also I've ordered styrene for the plating. Found myself hating the clear stuff. There isn't anything really wrong with it, but the HIPS will be white, original style, and should cut and clean up a lot easier.
Yup! Also I've ordered styrene for the plating. Found myself hating the clear stuff. There isn't anything really wrong with it, but the HIPS will be white, original style, and should cut and clean up a lot easier.
jedimaster
Sr Member
I hear Martyn has stayed at the Bangkok Hilton!
Yadda yadda yadda, nuthin' but yadda.
Hey, d'you know what the oval parts are that are on the Tyrell shroud's rear view mirrors? And the half-cylinders. I'll drop that section in rubber over the weekend - if you can drop those parts in I'll include them.
Hey, d'you know what the oval parts are that are on the Tyrell shroud's rear view mirrors? And the half-cylinders. I'll drop that section in rubber over the weekend - if you can drop those parts in I'll include them.
jedimaster
Sr Member
The half cylinders are sam2 oval thinghy a I'll have a look.
jedimaster
Sr Member
Cool, will bring round tomoz!
Martyn, if you are molding that piece you need to cut out four piece of styrere to cover the holes in the Tyrell piece just infront of the SAM2 bits Simon mentioned. I think the SAM2 pieces should be molded separately. I'll email you a screen shot of the piece.
Cheers Lee. You mean the window apertures? Already covered, and the piece is built up internally with epoxy for casting. I'd prefer to cast this with the styrene-paneled Tyrell shroud, SdKfz 222 hull, SAM2 bits and a couple of other bits all in one unit simply on the grounds that it's a very integrated piece and could make life easier. But there's no reason I can't do it both ways!
Noddy4000
New Member
Reading through this thread is an absolute joy. Can't get over just how superb the model looks, or the insanely difficult job of spotting ALL the donor kit parts used in the original. This is a stunner of a model and the modelling talents on display are wow factor 9.
Looking forward to seeing lots more of this beauty.
Looking forward to seeing lots more of this beauty.
