My Proton Pack build (including Afterlife-to-1984 wand mod)

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Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
As I'm still waiting on a box of parts, I decided to make the mounting plate for my neutrino wand using scraps from the aluminum from my motherboard:

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These are 3mm thick pieces, so I glued two together and clamped:

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I then shaped the block with a hacksaw and belt sander:

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I got another piece of scrap and cut it into a square for the backing piece:

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Even though this piece is thicker than 3mm on the original, I left it as a single layer since it set my wand far enough from the body to do the job.

I drilled two holes and counter sunk them to fit the bolts I had. I also used a block of wood as extra backing since my fiberglassing is relatively thin:

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Here's what the mess looks like inside the back:

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Drilled and countersunk the main plate:

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Mounted to the pack:

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Here it is with my Afterlife wand (which I'm planning on modding to the original version):

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You can see I've also added the bumper as well as the ribbon cable.

I think this about all I can do until my package arrives...
 

Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I finally mounted the ion arm to my pack. I added a block of wood into the base of the resin piece, to give me something to attach firmly to the pack. I drilled two holes into the pack:

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Then screwed the ion arm into place:

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Added a couple of tubes:

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...and just got a package with a bunch of bits and pieces!

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...now it's time to get to business!!

Screwed the vacuum tube into place:

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The booster was the very first piece I collected for this build SO many years ago... and I'm excited to finally get the frame and cable clamp added to this:

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Drilled some holes out for the booster:

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Because the booster I've got is fairly "closed" I ended up using pop rivets to secure it to the pack:

oknGg0Fl.jpg


WARNING: Purists... look away! I didn't have any Legris straights on hand, so I had a couple of spare hose attachments that I decided to cut down:

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They're quite a bit smaller than the original straights, but with a couple of wires (pop rivet posts) to hold the hoses in place, they work for me:

5E7mN0Ql.jpg


And here we have my pack so far:

0PBl5zul.jpg


I keep saying it... but each step of the way is so exciting seeing this become closer and closer to a finished proton pack! And a BIG thanks to all of you who have been helping me out with this project!
 

Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
On to the N-filter. I was sent a nice aluminum piece. Unfortunately the fit wasn't quite right with my shell, so I had to do a bit of dremel work and heat-gunning to get it to fit the hole:

hegeL2Dl.jpg


Earlier I said that the booster tube was the piece I've had the longest but when looking for the mesh to put in the N-filter, I discovered a roll of wire mesh that was left behind by the previous owners of our house (which we bought over 20 years ago)... so I guess this wire mesh is the first piece I was saving (unbeknownst to me):

bmB56yTl.jpg


Added some stickers and distressing (the red pinstripe I added later, but forgot to photograph):

oJ9411el.jpg


I drilled a couple of holes to my shell, marked out the spots on my n-filter and drilled holes into it so I could pop-rivet them together (seemed to be to be the most secure option):

O4YWtawl.jpg


Unfortunately the n-filter I've got is a bit oversized for my pack so there is a little overhang:

WHh1nAsl.jpg


I'm not too worried about it... just need to figure out if I want to add anything in the gap.

Here's the pack so far:

Ewkq4O4l.jpg
 

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Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Finally added the beamline tube... though the base was a bigger than the space my pack allowed, so needed to dremel some extra room:

x7yC1Vol.jpg


I ran out of clippard pieces, so I removed the one from the ion arm and replaced it with a 3d printed one (since I figure it's less visible than this one on the beamline tube:

vQoZUuUl.jpg


Next was to add the beamline loom tube... but the tube I've got is a bit wider than the original:

CLWlZEwl.jpg


No problem! I trimmed out a bit of the split loom:

wCgEMGRl.jpg


A little heat gunning will soften the plastic:

fbUrXXHl.jpg


But do this sparingly... it doesn't take much to melt this stuff:

mzbCDK8l.jpg


I'm not sure how the originals are attached, but it seemed weird to have a split loom tube attached to a pneumatic barb, so I decided to add a blue tube to the barbs (via my pop-rivet off-cut method):

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You can see I also added a nice metal plate to the HGA. I LOVE all these little details!

Oh... and here's a shot of the metallic red piping I added to the N-filter:

oxjC6OXl.jpg


Still waiting on the 3/4" loom tube. In the meantime... I'll start working on the wand!
 

Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
When Hasbro released the Afterlife wand, I knew immediately what I wanted to do with it... mod to a classic "legacy" version! I already had a few parts from trades including grips, aluminum disks, some hose and a Clippard valve. As you can see... the new parts are happy to start:

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First thing to do is cut off the rubber "tape" grip with a dremel wheel:

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Once you cut through, it peels off pretty easily:

P2Jq8BRl.jpg

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The faux grip is held on by a couple of screws which are easily removable but most of the screw holes on the bottom of this piece have been filled in will little plastic plugs. These are pretty simply to remove by using a slow turning drill bit (I think I used a 3.5mm bit) to drill just a little bit into the plug, then they should just pop out:

Rb1dXqVl.jpg


I saw some guys on YouTube completely drilling out the plugs which can be messy and also risks scratching the screws underneath, which could make their removal challenging.

Anyway... once I removed that faux grip, I set to dremel cut the back end of the grip:

OYHbktFl.jpg

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The three screws that held the original faux grip on actually drilled into this piece that is inside the battery housing. So, instead of grinding these down, I incorporated them into my new grip by drilling recessed holes for them to sit into:

dmGcWFEl.jpg


Unfortunately, the pipe has that step at the end and the plastic looks too thing to grind down to match the thickness of the rest of the pipe, so I decided to just leave it. I used the heights of the plugs to keep the new grip parallel with the original pipe.

After spray painting the grip, I drilled a couple of holes and added some pop rivets. Painted those black and then scratched some of the paint off:

NBHAJ6Ol.jpg


I repainted the pipe as well since the silver painted "scratches" looked a bit cheesy to me... also added a new, thicker green tubing:

CiknCzkl.jpg

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More to come...
 

publiusr

Well-Known Member
Now a long tube with air blown into it and venting off at spots with glow in the dark luminous paint and fibers might allow an interactive proton stream that is harmless compared to a van de graff machine
 

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Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Once you pop out those screw caps on the base, it unscrews pretty easily:

eHneW67l.jpg


As you can see in my previous post, I already had too aluminum side disks for the wand... so I thought I'd make a disk for the other side as well. If found some junk in my greeblie box:

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I glued the two thinner disks together to make a thicker piece:

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I sanded the edges, drilled a hole and counter sink. Here are all the pieces before painting:

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The original plastic disks were screwed to a plastic piece that held them in place to the side wall. So I used this same piece to attach my new metal disks:

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This allowed them to slip perfectly into place:

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All three disks in place:

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In place with a bit of sandpaper distressing:

X4P4Oy4l.jpg
 

Triin

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Wow Indy... I’m just speechless.. all of the work you have done here is just amazing.. GB has always been one of my favorites and like you... I made one from some toys and cardboard.. watching your progress here makes me want to dive in that hole as well and get one of these made!!
 

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Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Longshot33 If you're painting actual aluminum pieces, then just use any cheap black spray paint, then hit the edges with some various grades of sandpaper to wear off the paint (after it's complete dried). Now, if you're painting a resin piece, then there are two different ways you can do this:

1) Paint the piece silver first (chrome spray paint works fine). Add some masking fluid (or petroleum jelly works great... I've even heard of people using condiments... yes FOOD spreads for this purpose) to the areas that you want the black paint to flake off of. Then spray paint the piece black. Once the paint is dry, you can rub off the masking fluid/petroleum jelly to reveal the silver paint underneath.

2) Spray paint the piece black. Once dry, you can simply paint the silver parts with a brush or use a silver paint pen to add the distressed effect.

I use all these techniques depending on the piece.
 

Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Time to replace the Clippard valve! Unfortunately, when I tried unscrewing the plastic one on the wand, the nuts were spinning inside. I tried EVERYTHING to unscrew the bolts & nuts but I think the nuts on my wand were actually GLUED to the bolts... so I only had one choice:

FNomTSll.jpg

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Dremel cut off disk did the trick! :)

Now, unfortunately, I don't have the correct model Clippard, but I do have this:

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So, my idea was to use the top of the Hasbro Clippard since it is aluminum. The top unscrews easily... popped it into my vice and got sawing:

a5lbWQgl.jpg


Here's the top piece successfully sawed in half (the bottom piece will be saved in my greeblie box for a future project!):

VBHM6pIl.jpg


Unfortunately, the R-431 valve does NOT have a screw off top, so I drilled through the bottom to remove its "guts":

vAPnq1Hl.jpg


I chopped the top "bubble" off with a dremel and drill:

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I drilled a bit more into the Hasbro tip and found an old bolt that would allow me to attach the two pieces:

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Here's a comparison between the old piece and the new one:

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While I was trying to dig out that original clippard, I found another easy mod I could do... remove the plastic thing from the three vent slots on the top of the wand.

The first step was pulling out the white plastic piece with a pair of needle nose pliers:

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Next, I used a dremel with a pointed bit to route a line around the three vent holes:

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Successfully removed:

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Testing the electronics (to make sure I didn't screw anything up while fidgitting around in there)... and really happy to see that bright like peaking out through the vent:

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And a final shot of the new Clippard in place attached with hex bolts:

DR2CgQol.jpg
 

Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I started hacking off the front grip with a dremel and had a bit of a Bob Ross "Happy Accident":

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The wire running to the front switch is actually taped to the grip... so I ended up cutting through half of the wire. I was planning on removing that rubbery thing and replacing it with a wire as on the original... so now I could use real wires serving a real purpose:

Gzf7LWZl.jpg


The resin grips I had were a bit oversized, so I cut them down and reshaped to fit the Hasbro wand:

N4dC8nMl.jpg

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After a bit of black spray paint, I glued the new grips in place with plastic weld:

9YGPyccl.jpg


To fill the drilled out holes on the base plate, I used a leather punch to make some little foam fillers:

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These could easily be painted black, but I left them "as is" for now. Also, seeing this shot... next time I work on this wand I am definitely sanding down all that "Made in China" text!

I changed a few stickers and the green hose. I'm still planning on changing the two banjo fittings to brass and hopefully the tip to an aluminum one and then do my own weathering but, for now... here are some comparison "Before and After" shots...

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Close-up of the current mods:

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Here's the wand on my WIP pack:

8y9CkB8l.jpg
 

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