My Multipass Build

Zombie Killer

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Since most of the other multipass build threads don't have pics anymore i will post up my build. Maybe it will help someone out.

Very nice kit Mr Munson!! Graphics are pretty awesome as is the rest of it.

Here are the parts i received today. (i already trimmed some of the front graphic)

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The parts have a protective paper coating on them. In this pic i already started to smooth the LED trim edges.

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Here are the parts without the paper coating

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To get the LED to sit as low as possible i pretty much mashed the leads over as low as i could get them and trimmed the plastic edges.

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Again in an attempt to lower the LED i marked and ground down the back plate as much as i could without going through. A little with the Dremel and a small sanding drum then scraping with an xacto. It's not much but every bit helps.

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The result. Not sure i can go any lower and will leave it at that.

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Here i glued the front 2 rings together and ran a bead of super glue around the edge. I will go back and sand it all smooth tommorow.

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Next i trimmed the corregated parts. Marking then trimming and filing. I did the rear one first so if i screwed up i could hide it if needed. The rear could have been a hair wider but good enough for me.

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And a little test dry fit and i'm done for the night.

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Tommorow i will figure out a switch/battery setup for it and i need to get some paint. Anyone know what color?
 
Dang that's a really nice looking kit! Very detailed!!! Nice job putting it together so far. It's looking great :)
 
Thank you guys. Did a little more this morning.


2 of the corregated plastic parts sandwiched together is thicker than the center piece so the area that fits under the top and bottom plates need to be filed down. Once filed the 2 pieces are the same thickness as the center piece. Very nice Matt!

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In a sheer bit of luck i found this little "Bud Light" flashlight in a parking lot a few weeks back. It worked and i grabbed it. Took it apart to see what the switch was like and found the most simple of switches. Nothing more than a metal dome taped to a piece of paper with a hole in it. Old farts like my will probably remember this kind of switch in the Atari joysticks. They did stink when used in that setup due to extremly hard use but since i will not be using this as a joystick it is ideal. This light has a huge battery in it and it's too big for the multpass so I did a couple test fits with a CR2032 battery. I will trim it up after but i just wanted to make sure it would work before i ruined it as a flashlight. Ended up fitting perfect. Just enough room to add some styrene for the button and wire under the battery. I just need to figure out a clean way to make the rear removable so i can replace the batt.

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Here it is with a paper/cardboard backing. I will end up using a styrene piece there.

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Wow dude, you are really blazing through this.

AWESOME work on figuring out some of the more difficult parts of the build up without updated instructions.

You absolutely NAILED using that one pieces as a template for the ribbed styrene. thats EXACTLY what it was intended to do. And great job sanding down the top and bottom of the ribbed pieces. I hate that part.

AWESOME find on the little flashlight. Looks like it fits perfectly. I will have to dig one of those up myself. I hope you don't mind if I swipe a couple of your ideas for my own tutorial. Looks like you are well on your way to winning the prize for the free multipass!
 
Sorry for the delay. DSL went down yesterday and we just got it back. Perfect timing since i'm close to the end now. The first part of this build was pretty easy, this second half was a bit more tedious trying to plan it all out. Space is at an absolute premium in here. It will definetly be easier the next time i build one. On with the update....


Although the yellow bar that is supplied with the kit is more than adequate i wanted to get a little closer to screenused so i went to the dollar store and found a cheap set of sunglasses that had these ear protectors on them. I straightened it out, cut it down and inserted some thin white styrene to brighten it up a little and give support once i filed it down to fit under the top and bottom plates.

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Next was the button. I needed a way to capture the clear dome and display the yellow behind it and also have a backing to press against the switch. I really struggled with this part. I decided the best way for me was to glue the dome down to some clear plastic. For the clear plastic i used the back part of the package to a Playmates Star Trek phaser from the new movie. I probably should have used epoxy to glue it together but i ended up just spraying the plastic with Krylon Crystal clearcoat and dropping the dome on it and pressing the excess out. The first time i tried it yesterday it looked great but as it dried bubbles appeared. This morning i pulled it apart as it was not completly dry and sprayed it again and again it had no bubbles and again once it dried bubbles appeared. So be it, i guess it adds characture. I also cut out a backing from black .020 styrene. I then trimmed the yellow backing and only then found out it was a sticker which solved the one concern i had, which was gluing the clear to the backing to capture the yellow insert. None of that was needed.

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Next i needed to close up the battery hole up a bit for 2 reasons. One to hold the battery centered and also to add some wall so i had somewhere to screw the rear battery cover. As much as i wanted a twist on/off rear cover it wasn't going to happen.

At this point i glued the back plate to the center plate. Then i glued some .040x.100 styrene on the inside of the battery hole. First attempt worked fine untill i realised the button no longer went down (no room duh). I had used .040x.100" so i cut it in half the long way and glued it flush with the back plate.

First attempt- FAIL!
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Second attempt. Success!
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Here it is with the battery and the 2 solid round pieces used as the back cover. Battery sits too high.
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I dremeled one of the solid back pieces so the battery would sink in. This gave the battery some more room and also stiffened up the battery centering trim.
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The switch parts
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Up next was the battery contacts. After going through old remotes i found this RCA sattelite remote that offered up it's battery terminal. I desoldered it, straightened it, and dremeled some room into the battery centering trim. Then i rebent it to fit. Even after mashing the bump on the contact with pliers it added to the height and i would have to add one of the thin rings to the back cover for a little more depth.
Sall good:thumbsup

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Test fit
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I got out my resistor decade and the battery and decided to use a 330ohm resistor. I wanted a nice bright glow but not a bright flashlight. This would also extend battery life and more importantly LED life. Once this is together the LED is not coming out without surgery.
Here is a low light test.
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And a little double test fit check. I also decided to file the LED trim a little thinner and make the trim next to the button a bit bigger. The one supplied seemed a bit small. Here it is with the supplied one below.
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Here it is with the LED wired up. I wired both LEDs parallel to each other to one 330ohm resistor to the negative terminal.
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And the rear cover. It's so tight in there that when the screws are installed the battery doesn't move.
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The front with it's parts glued on .
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And finally a dry test fit. At this point i just need to glue the front plate to the rest of it, and clean up the edges. I will probably mask anything i don't want painted before i glue it together for a cleaner look.
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And a final light test.
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And you know when you've done it right, you have extra parts. Really only one extra ring, the other parts were upgraded.
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And thats about it other than painting.
Matt, what color do i use????
 
WOW! you really put a lot into this! I am impressed. I keep meaning to dig mine out and put it together. I'm kinda glad I haven't because I like all your ideas here to make it more "functional".
 
Agreed with all the comments so far! Really great build up. You are definitely taking it to the next level with the electronics and that rod. Looks fantastic.

For the paint, I recommend Dupli-Color T183. It's a medium metallic grey that looks pretty good.
 
Thanks all for the kind comments.

Thanks Matt, i will get some of that Duplicolor paint. I'm also going to get some Model Masters Metallizer Gunmetal. I did a Hasbro Greivous ship with that color and it looks close to the screenshots i have of the Multipass. I'll compare the 2 and pick the best.
 
Wow. Just WOW! Reading this build thread has been an experience. I was really hoping to add electronics to my kit as well, but it looks like that's about 90% of the challenge. You've done some amazing work.
 
Thanks all for the kind comments.

Thanks Matt, i will get some of that Duplicolor paint. I'm also going to get some Model Masters Metallizer Gunmetal. I did a Hasbro Greivous ship with that color and it looks close to the screenshots i have of the Multipass. I'll compare the 2 and pick the best.

Please let us know how the model masters paint turns out for you. I am NOT a fan of that line, as it seems to easily smudge and dull with handling. One of the things I really have grown to apprecaite about the auto paints is how good they are with being handled.

Either way, it looks like you're going to be getting a free kit out of this, so if you want to experiment on one, you're in no danger :)
 
Wow. Just WOW! Reading this build thread has been an experience. I was really hoping to add electronics to my kit as well, but it looks like that's about 90% of the challenge. You've done some amazing work.

Agreed. REALLY diggin the solution that ZK has come up with. I need to find an online source for those things so I can point people to them if they want to do a working version of the pass.
 
I didn't do it for a free kit but will gladly accept it. Thank you! I need to PM you about one of those LEDs for a presidential phone too. Hold off on sending a kit as i will probably buy a 3rd so i have a LeeLoo and Dallas too.


I have good luck with the MM. I spray it, then polish well, wash and clear coat. The clear keeps it from getting messed up.
 
Not sure why i didn't think about it before but, i used a CR2032 battery for this but there is also a CR2016. It is a little less than half the height of the CR2032. This would allow me to remove the rear cover spacer and make it a little thinner. I'm going to get one and see if the light stays around the same brightness. I will probably change to this batt for the next build. It's a bit too late for this one since the batt terminal is alread bent and soldered. Food for thought.....
 
Well this is pretty much the last update. I'm done with this one except i have not glued down the pictures. I am going to wait untill i build the other 2 and figure out which multipass gets which user. After testing about 6 different paints and colors the paint Matt recommends is spot on. Duplicolor T183. The # has been changed to BGM0534 Gray Met.

I went ahead and masked off the button and eyeglass piece and glued the top to the bottom. I did not glue the strip in.
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I was still not happy with that piece that goes next to the button so i cut some red acrylic and filed it down. Looks a bit better, I then masked off a strip of it.

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Here it is with paint.

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And a final shot. The picture is not glued down yet. Sorry for the distorted pic, OK i'm not sorry. It just looked too good.
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In a final thought, i would change a few things on my next builds. First a different way of gluing the button to the clear backing is needed. The bubbles are a bit noticable. I think i will try epoxy next time. Also the battery tab i made is a bit short and the connection to the LED will probably break over repeated battery changes, i will change that a little next time. Also when i glued the edges of the multipass and sanded them down i should have had the battery cover on. It is not exactly the same shape now and i've painted it already. Not really noticable but it is. I am happy with the switch, the eyeglass piece and the red strip and of coarse the kit itself.

All in all i think the kit is great. There is a learning curve the first time flying blind, but i think the next one will be much better and easier. I hope this thread helps in your builds.

Matt , a couple weeks and you will be hearing from me about more kits.

ZK
 
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I just started on this kit myself. Having a heck of a time just peeling the paper off. :lol

Is there paper on that tiny little strip that goes next to the LED? I can't tell just by looking at it.
 
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