Mr. Black Bio Paint up

this is next on my list,......looks awesome dude,.....
i like the time and effort put in ,...it really shows,.....

u guys using dome lenses in them ?? if so what are u using ???

stellar job man,.....
 
Thanks for the comments. The more I look at it, the more I'm not sure about it. lol Don't know if it's just me because I painted it or me comparing it to other Mr Black paint ups.

As for the lenses, just cheap $5 pair of Wal-Mart sunglasses.
 
Thanks. For materials I purchased my clay from Dick Blick, their Van Aken clay. I purchased the sculpting tools from them too.
 
Well, I repainted my Mr Black Bio. I wanted to try out a new weathering technique [new to me] and that is Salt Weathering. Overall, I think it gave me a more realistic look at where the paint would come off battle damage. Pretty much painted it up the same way as before, but I added some more browns and greens to try and make it look like I took it right from Mr Black during the end battle. One thing I did do different was that I didn't use a gloss sealer for the bio, I used Matte on both the jawbone and bio sections. Also, some pics make the jawbone look white, but it's just the sun and how the camera took the pic.

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Thanks for viewing and comments are always welcome.
munson
 
Thanks for the comments guys, greatly appreciated. It's making me want to repaint my Broken Tusk bio and make it look more damaged and banged up. Take a dremel to it and perhaps add more damage, put liquitex on the damage to make it look like the metal on the bio was was torn out more. I've been thinking of doing the salt weathering technique with the ancient gold and reds on the bio.
 
I like it! Personally, I prefer the matte finish; that's what I used. Just feels more "real" to me, especially if it's supposed to look all dinged up, rusted, and what not. I have no idea what the salt weathering technique is that you mention. Video or website how-to-link?
 
I like it! Personally, I prefer the matte finish; that's what I used. Just feels more "real" to me, especially if it's supposed to look all dinged up, rusted, and what not. I have no idea what the salt weathering technique is that you mention. Video or website how-to-link?


Thanks. I agree with you too. When I do a bio I like to make it look like it just took it right from the battle itself.

Here's a link to a website that explains it.
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide/paint...alt-weathering/

This is part 1 of 5 very very short videos on it too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnBa6nzX_aE
 
Idk, the toothpaste method seems easier and if done right can produce some great effects. I've seen it mostly on the 405th.
 
Yea, I was looking over at the dented helmet and it does seem a bit simpler and it offers a good effect too. I'll have to cast out a bio just to try different paint ups and weathering effects. There's another called "hairspray weathering", it seems that there's a bit more to it than the other too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CNFdEZnQN8
 
A question Richie. When I was doing the salt weathering, I noticed that it works a lot better if I used a krylon spray instead of painting or sponging on the paint. The salt would take the sponged on paint right up and expose the primer. It didn't pull up the krylon. Do you know a way that the sponged on acrylic won't get pulled up when I brush the salt off?
 
A question Richie. When I was doing the salt weathering, I noticed that it works a lot better if I used a krylon spray instead of painting or sponging on the paint. The salt would take the sponged on paint right up and expose the primer. It didn't pull up the krylon. Do you know a way that the sponged on acrylic won't get pulled up when I brush the salt off?
I don't have any experience using the salt method, I have done the toothpaste thing once, the only thing I would think of is maybe using a different type of brush on paint? Does the acrylic fully dry or are you brushing the salt off while it's still wet or drying? Acrylic paint is usually pretty durable as long as it fully dries.
 
I don't have any experience using the salt method, I have done the toothpaste thing once, the only thing I would think of is maybe using a different type of brush on paint? Does the acrylic fully dry or are you brushing the salt off while it's still wet or drying? Acrylic paint is usually pretty durable as long as it fully dries.


The paint had a dry time of an hour and I left it dry fully. Perhaps if I let it dry longer?
 
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