Most common mistakes new builders make.
- Thread starter Thoramyre
- Start date
Most common mistake?
Saying 'If I build my props it will be so much cheaper than just buying stuff'.
Saying 'If I build my props it will be so much cheaper than just buying stuff'.
^This...So much this.
Inability to work with failure.
You won't always get it right on the first try. Test everything you can on scraps instead of the final piece, test everything you've actually built to see if it is right, and if it isn't, be mentally prepared (and have the budgeted time and supplies) to stop, jettison the thing that isn't working, and regroup.
You won't always get it right on the first try. Test everything you can on scraps instead of the final piece, test everything you've actually built to see if it is right, and if it isn't, be mentally prepared (and have the budgeted time and supplies) to stop, jettison the thing that isn't working, and regroup.
With regard to what medium? It's a rather broad question when you refer to new builders. Are you planning to work in metal, resin, latex, what? Being a tad more specific will yield better advice.
Good luck just the same!
-Rylo
Good luck just the same!
-Rylo
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Dumontrudisel
Well-Known Member
Assuming pep is quick and easy. Biggest mistake I made.
Trigrave88
New Member
Think outside of the box. one tool can be used multiple ways if need be.
This is an invaluable piece of advice. When starting out with materials you've never used and you discover you've botched it and any fixes don't seem to work, sometimes you have to make the hard decision and scrap the piece. It will save you time and money.
A prime example is getting a resin piece and after sanding and cleaning you are ready to paint and prime. After a few minutes of doing so you notice the paint isn't curing. So you wait...DAYS, and it's still tacky. So you try all the tricks. Resanding, priming a lot, heavy paint. Pieces of it are still sticky. This is called "weeping". It's caused by improper mixing of the resin or more likely, using bad or old resin. This causes the piece to not cure and stays soft in areas, HOWEVER, it will appear perfect until paint is added. This causes the bad resin to react almost immediately and it will not cure. There are some methods that people have had mixed results with. Some being baking the piece on a very low heat or setting it out in the hot sun for several days. The hope here is to force the resin to cure. I've done this and it only works about 20% of the time if small amounts are weeping. Another trick is to cut out the bad areas and rebuild that spot. I've tried that as well and it's more trouble than it's worth and seldom looks like it originally did. It's best to just suck it up and chuck the piece.
I use this as an example as most people that start in this hobby usually start with resin pieces.
And finally, ask questions. I guarantee that there is NOTHING you will encounter regarding prop building problems that will be new to this board. Someone or someone's have experienced this before and will most likely share their experience and most likely, a solution. Don't guess...ask.
Oh...and buy a DECENT dremmel! :lol
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Excellent advice right there!
I went through 2 Dremels (both newer) before I finally bit the bullet and got a Foredom.
Not that I'll ever have to, but I won't go back.
Exterminator
Well-Known Member
Applying WAY too much filler, usually about twice as much as is actually needed, then having to spend ages sanding off the excess - lots of time (and filler!) wasted!! :wacko
Consider the proper tools and process before jumping straight into a build. You don't necessarily need to have a step by step list, but there are a lot of new builders that think tech is the end all savior to propmaking.
Pepakura, 3D printing, CnC work, etc. I've seen tons of students and upcoming builders who are very well versed in virtual model making consider these to be the only ways to build. Recently I had a discussion with an artist working on a helmet that had several cylindrical components, which he had 3D printed and was concerned about keeping their shape after filling and sanding the print.
It almost seemed like a shock when I suggested taking those parts off the model and turning them on a lathe instead.
Consider your later stages when planning a project. Will it be easier to make a flat surface and mount a separate detail on top than build it all as one component?
Also, don't pep gun barrels. That's why god invented pipe.
Pepakura, 3D printing, CnC work, etc. I've seen tons of students and upcoming builders who are very well versed in virtual model making consider these to be the only ways to build. Recently I had a discussion with an artist working on a helmet that had several cylindrical components, which he had 3D printed and was concerned about keeping their shape after filling and sanding the print.
It almost seemed like a shock when I suggested taking those parts off the model and turning them on a lathe instead.
Consider your later stages when planning a project. Will it be easier to make a flat surface and mount a separate detail on top than build it all as one component?
Also, don't pep gun barrels. That's why god invented pipe.
Mara Jade's Father
Master Member
Paint
I've seen many a great piece on this board ruined by thick and lifeless paint job. Likewise, I've seen poorly made resin kits and children toys turned into awesome finished prop replicas.
- Many light coats.
- Use a decent paint in ideal weather/temperature conditions.
- Use automotive wet sandpaper in between coats (increasing to higher grits as you add layers).
I've seen many a great piece on this board ruined by thick and lifeless paint job. Likewise, I've seen poorly made resin kits and children toys turned into awesome finished prop replicas.
NugZilla81
New Member
when working with resin,latex and such, use a Silicone Pastry brush. The resin will not stick to silicone
http://dining.byu.edu/mix/images/gadgets/pastry_brush.jpg
Mind blown!
