Are you hoping to make the prop fully interactive ie: the rotary encoder drives the countdown and the flip switch activates it? I have no idea how to do that stuff, so I think I'm gonna lay-off of doing the animation until I can figure out what's required.
Mission: Impossible - Fallout (2018) - Nuke remote trigger device
- Thread starter sschueller
- Start date
Are you hoping to make the prop fully interactive ie: the rotary encoder drives the countdown and the flip switch activates it? I have no idea how to do that stuff, so I think I'm gonna lay-off of doing the animation until I can figure out what's required.
sschueller
New Member
I was thinking of making it interactive with an arduino but I am not sure what exactly it would do. Maybe you can dial a time with the rotary encoder and have it count down if you flip the switch. Maybe an egg timer or an alarm clock? You set the alarm time with the rotary encode and then flip the switch to enable or disable the alarm.
sschueller
New Member
Does anyone have any pictures of the back? I can only find blurry screens of the back. There appears to be some sort of clip but it's unclear.
Latest work with alternate larger LCD:
Latest work with alternate larger LCD:
I was waiting for this thread to be started when I saw the prop for the first in the film. Amazing work!
sschueller
New Member
Some updates:
- I found the flipcover (with hole) for around USD 28.- (SCHUTZ 20-26 - Sicherheitsabdeckungen, rt)
- I integrated a color LCD (IPS 2.4 inch 262K SPI TFT LCD Screen with Adapter Board ILI9341 Drive IC 8/16Bit Interface 240(RGB)*320-in LCD Modules from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group)
- Latest version is "Remote Trigger Alt v110 v48.f3d" on thingiverse which uses the color TFT LCD.
What I need some help with it trying to figure out how to make the connector for the key (the round thing that gets plugged in next to the flip switch guard). In the movie it appears to be two pins but I don't know of any connector like that. I was thinking of using a USB connector but they are too deep to fit in the case.
Additionally I have no experience with finishing 3d printer parts to look like they do in the movie. Any suggestions would be very welcome. I usually print in PETG as it keeps the dimensions the best.
- I found the flipcover (with hole) for around USD 28.- (SCHUTZ 20-26 - Sicherheitsabdeckungen, rt)
- I integrated a color LCD (IPS 2.4 inch 262K SPI TFT LCD Screen with Adapter Board ILI9341 Drive IC 8/16Bit Interface 240(RGB)*320-in LCD Modules from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group)
- Latest version is "Remote Trigger Alt v110 v48.f3d" on thingiverse which uses the color TFT LCD.
What I need some help with it trying to figure out how to make the connector for the key (the round thing that gets plugged in next to the flip switch guard). In the movie it appears to be two pins but I don't know of any connector like that. I was thinking of using a USB connector but they are too deep to fit in the case.
Additionally I have no experience with finishing 3d printer parts to look like they do in the movie. Any suggestions would be very welcome. I usually print in PETG as it keeps the dimensions the best.
sschueller
New Member
I wrote some code for an ESP32 to simulate the timer. "Scanning" is when the ESP32 is looking for wifi, then when connected it shows "Linked". The signal strength bars is the actual wifi signal strength from the ESP32. Rotary knob can be pushed to control either the minutes, seconds or milliseconds. The red LED on the board is the "Safe On" button light.
Sorry the LCD colors don't come out right over the video but they are the same as in the movie. I am also still dealing with a bit of flickering even though I am using the HW SPI bus now.
Here is a quick video:
P.S.: Yes it's white and the LCD shines through, I didn't have any black PETG left
. I may paint this one or print another one.
Sorry the LCD colors don't come out right over the video but they are the same as in the movie. I am also still dealing with a bit of flickering even though I am using the HW SPI bus now.
Here is a quick video:
P.S.: Yes it's white and the LCD shines through, I didn't have any black PETG left
. I may paint this one or print another one.How 'sandable' is PETG? I've only ever used PLA which is an absolute nightmare, I have to use automotive filler primer before I can even think of sanding it. I'm curious as to what sort of results you get from PETG because I've just about run out of filament and need to restock.
sschueller
New Member
I prefer it over PLA although it is a bit harder to print. The dimensions are much more accurate (it doesn't shrink much) and it tends to bend instead of snap unlike PLA. However for good results you need to make sure your filament is dry and you need to print slower than PLA. You also have to use a heated bed or it will warp.
When it comes to post processing I have zero experience so I can't tell you how it is to sand.
When it comes to post processing I have zero experience so I can't tell you how it is to sand.
I've tried everything from circuit breakers, kill switches, battery isolators. I'll let you know the second I find something, but it may be a scratch built component, I don't know.
Yeah, I originally thought it was a scratch built component. But the more that I look at it, the more that I think that it was at least based on an existing part. Especially considering the part has a red interior with small screws (?) opposite the protruding contacts.
sschueller
New Member
Looks like it could be a military / aviation waterproof connector without a cable attached and the end cut short. They usually have a cap of some sort and come with many different pin configurations.
Something like this: GX16 Waterproof Aviation Connector Plug Socket Sensor Encoder 2/3/4/5/6 Pin New JUL10 dropship-in Connectors from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I agree. This is what I was leaning towards as well. Do we have an approximate outer diameter of the connector? This might help us narrow it down a bit.
I've also never seen this oddly-shaped 2-pin configuration either. I've been searching and haven't found anything remotely similar.
sschueller
New Member
In my model the outer diameter is 16.5mm but I did size up the model slightly for the LCD so something like 15-16mm could be the actual size.
sschueller
New Member
I think the key may be custom. I went through hundreds of items at Enabling The Electronics Revolution | Amphenol and other places. I can't find anything that matches, especially odd is that rectangular pins as it seems an odd choice for any connector to not use round or square pins.
On another note, I am making progress on getting a PCB for the Electronics :
On another note, I am making progress on getting a PCB for the Electronics
:
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Here is my guess on those contacts. They look like the back-end of a over-mold contact. The end that is normally embedded in the plastic. Specifically it looks like the back-half of a US electrical outlet terminal. These normally have a hole, but sometimes they have a half-round like seen in the image.
The Searcher
Sr Member
Great job on the trigger so far! One thing I’d like to point out is that the numbers should turn red at the 5 minute mark instead of the one minute mark. Also, I found some screen grabs from a better transfer than the Chinese bootleg:
sschueller
New Member
Some more work in progress. Testing the PCB now but will need to make another run as some of the parts are off. I may also switch to a ESP32 dev board as there is room for it and it makes it easier with less SMD parts.
Can anyone recommend a good place to do SLS 3d printing? I think the case would come out quite nicely with the rough finish of a SLS black carbon nylon print.
