Metro Exodus Hand Crank Charger

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Harrison4257

Active Member
I devised this wiring theory from the link, also, do not try this at home.


It had to already be charged up for Artyom to be shocked.
The red and black cables to the diode are (I believe) interchangeable.

Hopefully I didn't break any guidelines by showing a clip. >.>
 

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Harrison4257

Active Member
I really like this idea of adding the probe ends to the piece ! For completeness i feel these would be a good addition, on playing through the games i always got the impression they were two lose wires he fed into the power box and wrapped them around the battery nodes to give it a bit of a jump from the charger.

Wouldn't look as cool as probes but might be more accurate ?

I took a second look at the diode wire, and it looks like it's jammed/pinned between the power box and the metal support.

Exodus - Generator5hh.jpg

Incidentally, I got the majority of inspiration from this pic.


05a4ebba0a75527e204f99252902b7e7.jpg
I think the artist switched the power wires around, or I don't know wiring. >.>

After a month of tinkering around seeing if copper spool would be a good power bank (see the 2nd pic for ref), I came to the conclusion that a capacitor would be 1000x better for volts. I'll see if the amp would do better with a super cap.
 

TheSlavinator

New Member
I can make the plate with the writing that actually pops out. It will be easy enough to do thanks to the image you provided Nathan!
Hopefully I can have most of the key parts printed tonight.
 
I can make the plate with the writing that actually pops out. It will be easy enough to do thanks to the image you provided Nathan!
Hopefully I can have most of the key parts printed tonight.

That would be very very cool.

Just make sure to make the lettering is a few MM higher than what they should be normally, by the time you add paint etc.

Otherwise i think this project is coming along nicely.
 
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Harrison4257

Active Member
IMG_4567.JPG IMG_4568.JPG IMG_4566.JPG

A few bugs to work out and a lot of little fixes and shims, but I've got most of the hand crank figured out.
Be about a few weeks until I upload the sketches to thingiverse.
Just have to figure on the spring that auto-retracts.
 

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TheSlavinator

New Member
View attachment 1016381 View attachment 1016382 View attachment 1016380

A few bugs to work out and a lot of little fixes and shims, but I've got most of the hand crank figured out.
Be about a few weeks until I upload the sketches to thingiverse.
Just have to figure on the spring that auto-retracts.
Could I get the file so I could tinker with it myself? I already got most of the charger printed and wanted to see if the mechanism could work with what I got so far before a wrap up on the project. Other than that youre a genius for figuring this out man!
 

zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It sounds like you want it to be functional enough to at least drive the meter? (and maybe a lightbulb on the meter?)
More power to you! (pun intended)

I want to someday take a crack at this also, I love all the props in the Metro series because so many components are based on real world items (and usually also scale)

It looks like you are using a rack and pinion to drive the gears. All you need for retraction is to add a spring that pulls the rack back to its starting position. However, you also probably need a ratcheting mechanism so that the return stroke doesn't reverse the gear directions.
 

Harrison4257

Active Member
Do you mean a spring in between the rack and the wall?
Possible Spring Mecchanism#2.jpg
*Note: this is an older concept that wasn't built.

Or between the two gripping handles?
Handle Spring Mechanism#2.jpg
*Note: This handle is way to massive to be of any practical use, I've built it to know. >.>

Already thought of the two and the conclusion I've made is the latter .
The spring might slip and damage the inner working of the rack and pinion (you guessed right XD) mechanism.
 

zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You could use a push spring like you show in the first image, or a pull spring connected from the end of the rack to the end of the handle. This would be easier to achieve as pull springs just need holes or pegs to grab. Push springs needs to be contained and fly out easier.

I guess you also would still need the spring between the handle to force it open.
 

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Harrison4257

Active Member
Stamped or pressed into metal.jpg
These where either stamped or pressed into the metal during the creation or repurposed to be this generator.

1F50XX
250BT
220G5A

*note* bold type face is approximation.

I also uploaded the gearing system and Gearing Shroud on Thingiverse if any of you want to try it yourself.
 
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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Since your using a solid modeler, I would ask that you upload a STEP version also, that way people can modify the files later.
 

Harrison4257

Active Member
Do you mean steps I have taken to produce the gearing system or the actual file?
Here's a link if it's the latter if you want to take a look:
A360 for the housing
A360 for the rack and pinion

*Edit* Link Removed.

Otherwise if you truly mean a STEP file, then your out of luck. I don't know how or wish to learn that particular software.

This is still in alpha development so downloading the raw data isn't an option.
I'll change that later on though.
-----
Also I think I may have stumbled across the a way to spring back the ratchet with a cannibalized Irwin Vise Grip Locking Pliers Straight for the spring.
Updates later on in the week.
 
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zapwizard

Sr Member
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Just FYI: STEP is a ISO 3D file interchange format for solid shapes. Since you are using a solid 3D modeler (Fusion 360), the STEP file should be as easy to export as the STL.

For example you can download STEP 3D files from McMaster of gears, screws, and lots of other hardware and import those so you have 3D reference for parts you will use later.

STL files are good for 3D printing, but suck try to alter later because they are tessellated, so they can only be edited easily in a polygon modeler.

Just to be clear, I wasn't trying to demand that you share your raw data. You have every right to your own CAD data and how you share it.
But someday I want to make one of these, but I probably wouldn't just 3D print what I find online, I would try to update anything I found, or just examine the work someone else put into.

Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see how it turns out.
 

Harrison4257

Active Member
I sincerely hope I didn't offend you zapwizard, still getting used to Fusion 360 with over a year of practice. Lot of hurdles to get past. T.T


Project so far, wont print out most of it, just for reference to build aluminum and steel components.
Believe I'll start with the power bank next.


There was a hiccup in the software where it doubled the base.


Didn't know how much you wanted, "Test Exodus v38.step" is the complete one.

*File Deleted. See 3 Steps Below for an updated Version.*
 
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Harrison4257

Active Member
MVI_4583.gif

No holes drilled, just floating spring under (barely enough) tension.

Update:
*SOLVED*

Figured it out on how to sustainably add the required tension
Mark the center section of the 3d printed handle, drill a 2.5mm hole, tap with M3 and send down a bolt.
Extend the lead spring and wrap it around the bolt and it will have enough tension to return when pressing down.
Here are a few pics as reference. a-little to many screw bolts if you ask. >.>
IMG_4587.JPG IMG_4588.JPG
 
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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
No offense taken. You files are your own to control.

I opened your assembly. (I only needed the v38 step file). It looks good so far. I am guessing a lot of it is temporary items you will improve as you go.
But here are some tips, please do as you want though. Learning CAD takes time.
  • The pipe on the left side could use rounded corners. This can be done using a sweep operation.
  • The gear profiles need to be meshed properly, it looks like you already have done this on the above animated post. GearGenerator.com is what i used for my Pip-Boy gears.
  • The gears don't have to be quite so thick. 10 or 6mm will work just as well.
  • Look to McMaster or GrabCAD for CAD models of real hardware, that way your screws and nuts will be accurate to what you can use to actually put it together. You can even 3D print the models to make lightweight versions of items that don't need to be metal.
  • Your sheet metal parts have zero radius on the inside corners. Real sheet metal always has some amount of inside radius. Typically half the material thickness. Fusion 360 may even have a sheet metal mode that will help guide those features to look more real. Also, even if your are 3D printing the metal parts, an inside bend radius greatly strengthens the joint.
  • Looking at this image as reference, it looks like some of the parts are intended on being welded instead of bent sheet metal.
 

Harrison4257

Active Member
No offense taken. You files are your own to control.

I opened your assembly. (I only needed the v38 step file). It looks good so far. I am guessing a lot of it is temporary items you will improve as you go.
But here are some tips, please do as you want though. Learning CAD takes time.
  • The pipe on the left side could use rounded corners. This can be done using a sweep operation.
  • The gear profiles need to be meshed properly, it looks like you already have done this on the above animated post. GearGenerator.com is what i used for my Pip-Boy gears.
  • The gears don't have to be quite so thick. 10 or 6mm will work just as well.
  • Look to McMaster or GrabCAD for CAD models of real hardware, that way your screws and nuts will be accurate to what you can use to actually put it together. You can even 3D print the models to make lightweight versions of items that don't need to be metal.
  • Your sheet metal parts have zero radius on the inside corners. Real sheet metal always has some amount of inside radius. Typically half the material thickness. Fusion 360 may even have a sheet metal mode that will help guide those features to look more real. Also, even if your are 3D printing the metal parts, an inside bend radius greatly strengthens the joint.
  • Looking at this image as reference, it looks like some of the parts are intended on being welded instead of bent sheet metal.
A work in progress that file is.
Again, since I will bend - or weld in this case- half of the machine in metal, The holding bracket I might use a Steel bar in fact. I didn't find it necessary for me to put more work into something that I'll just throw away in the future. (updated)
The through holes and fasteners will be marked out with the generator of your own choosing. That particular set is the L shaped bracket in the back that bumps up against the Generator, and they vary in size.
As for the picture in reference, I used some aspects. of the design as reference If I welded the pipes to the actual generator, it may warp its curvature and cease its function. So I opted for my own particular design.

*Update*
Redesigned the Handle, the attachment points are 3 1 at the base to the power bank, 1 from the screw cap to the electrode plates, and 1 from the handle to the electrode plates. If you aren't sure it will hold up, just weld the thing.
I've only used sweep maybe twice before, with little success. Thanks for the tip!


*Update x 2*
Believe I've messed up the first Step file. I inadvertently double posted two 60 tooth gear pieces on top of one another. Here's a corrected version in the .zip file.
You may notice that the Cap bank has altered some, I've tinkered with it, trying to fit the Super Caps inside. There is far to little room to mess around.
The [new] capacitor bank is untested and in the process of being printed out and tested (Super Cap 2.5V 120F if you please) , yet I've included that as well. >.>

*Update x 3*
Added in the Escapements for the wires on both ends. They may be a little to large.
Added the L bracket instead of the straight bar. I'll round the corners later if need be. *Falls down dead.*
 

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