McQuarrie Vader WIP Scratch Build & Research (Studio 49)
- Thread starter Studio 49
- Start date
Niiiiice! 
Studio 49
Sr Member
Niiiiice!
Thanks man!
Studio 49
Sr Member
So I have been doing some more research, this time to see if there are any ready made items that could work for parts on the RMQ Vader, specifically the belt region.
BELT BOX
So first of is the Belt box. I'm just going to get a hammond box, easy, quick and accurate.
HOLSTER
So I have been looking at existing leather holsters I could get and I think that I may have found some that would work, however I am no expert on firearms or holsters and the like so if there is something out there more accurate and better or more affordable, please let me know.
Left Hip Civil War Holster
http://www.darkknightarmoury.com/p-16457-left-hip-civil-war-holster.aspx
Left Side Leather Holster
http://www.darkknightarmoury.com/p-20359-left-side-leather-holster.aspx
BELT POUCH
Not 100% but could work. Who knows, maybe I could try and do some leather work?
Turtleback HTC One M8 Genuine Leather Holster Case Pouch with Metal Belt Clip with Magnetic Closure - Made in USA
http://www.amazon.com/Turtleback-Genuine-Leather-Holster-Magnetic/dp/B00K2DMBXE
BELT BOX
So first of is the Belt box. I'm just going to get a hammond box, easy, quick and accurate.
HOLSTER
So I have been looking at existing leather holsters I could get and I think that I may have found some that would work, however I am no expert on firearms or holsters and the like so if there is something out there more accurate and better or more affordable, please let me know.
Left Hip Civil War Holster
http://www.darkknightarmoury.com/p-16457-left-hip-civil-war-holster.aspx
Left Side Leather Holster
http://www.darkknightarmoury.com/p-20359-left-side-leather-holster.aspx
BELT POUCH
Not 100% but could work. Who knows, maybe I could try and do some leather work?
Turtleback HTC One M8 Genuine Leather Holster Case Pouch with Metal Belt Clip with Magnetic Closure - Made in USA
http://www.amazon.com/Turtleback-Genuine-Leather-Holster-Magnetic/dp/B00K2DMBXE
Last edited by a moderator:
Studio 49
Sr Member
Update 15:
So I was able to first the fan cooling system today.
I had to do a bit of fiddling to get it right, but I have gotten it perfect now and I am very happy with it.
So due to the different shape and set out of the face I wasn't able to fit a 9V battery inside without it being annoying Also have heard stories of batteries leaking on cosplays heads during use, so with those 2 things in mind I have tried something a little different. I have mount the battery externally on top of the face behind the mounting area for the dome. Since it is behind the mounting area it is hidden from view, very easy to get to and also protects me from any potential leakage. The fans were attached with hot glue in the grill area and point up at an angle to cool down my face easily and a couple wires have just been stuck down with a tad of hot glue so it is still easy enough to remove if need be.
So that the battery can connect to the switch and fans I drilled a small hole in the top of the face (also invisible with the dome attached) and thread it through. So now you may be thinking, "But Jonah what are you going to do if you need to remove the wiring for the battery?" and this is where I say that I have used connectors (like JST Quick Disconnects) that allows me to undo a small screw and remove different parts of the wires!
This is certainly the best wiring I have ever done and I am very happy with it!
So I was able to first the fan cooling system today.
I had to do a bit of fiddling to get it right, but I have gotten it perfect now and I am very happy with it.
So due to the different shape and set out of the face I wasn't able to fit a 9V battery inside without it being annoying Also have heard stories of batteries leaking on cosplays heads during use, so with those 2 things in mind I have tried something a little different. I have mount the battery externally on top of the face behind the mounting area for the dome. Since it is behind the mounting area it is hidden from view, very easy to get to and also protects me from any potential leakage. The fans were attached with hot glue in the grill area and point up at an angle to cool down my face easily and a couple wires have just been stuck down with a tad of hot glue so it is still easy enough to remove if need be.
So that the battery can connect to the switch and fans I drilled a small hole in the top of the face (also invisible with the dome attached) and thread it through. So now you may be thinking, "But Jonah what are you going to do if you need to remove the wiring for the battery?" and this is where I say that I have used connectors (like JST Quick Disconnects) that allows me to undo a small screw and remove different parts of the wires!
This is certainly the best wiring I have ever done and I am very happy with it!
Last edited by a moderator:
Studio 49
Sr Member
So I was doing some research into how I could sculpt the shins and then came across some progress pics from Kevin at KW Designs sculpting is thigh parts for the EP 3 Clone.
He had 2 techniques, one with a canned foam as a base and one with foam as a base. They look the most promising and look like something I could do.
So I figured I would post them here so it's easier for you guys to see:
Method 1: Spray Can Foam
These are some of pictures he took specific to sculpting the back half of the shins
He had 2 techniques, one with a canned foam as a base and one with foam as a base. They look the most promising and look like something I could do.
So I figured I would post them here so it's easier for you guys to see:
Method 1: Spray Can Foam
These are some of pictures he took specific to sculpting the back half of the shins
Last edited by a moderator:
Studio 49
Sr Member
Update 16:
So in preparation for having a crack at sculpting then vac forming the shins, I was able to acquire a heap of high density foam for free from the University Workshop that will serve as the basis for my sculpt, you can never be too prepared I say!
So in preparation for having a crack at sculpting then vac forming the shins, I was able to acquire a heap of high density foam for free from the University Workshop that will serve as the basis for my sculpt, you can never be too prepared I say!
Last edited by a moderator:
Studio 49
Sr Member
I do have some experience with vac forming from school where we made things like 40cm solar powered boats that we created by building the timber base and then vac forming, so the process shouldn't be any harder than that. The biggest challenge I can see is the sculpting side of things, I'm sure it'll be challenging but I'm really looking forward to it and I hope I can learn some new skills in the process! (also just to be clear since it's not too obvious the sculpt pics above aren't mine, although that is what I'm striving to achieve)
So guess all thats left to do before I get is too find the time to get started! Once I do get some time, probably in a few weeks time, the first thing I'm going to do is print out some life size versions of reference material for the shins I can refer to them and maybe trace as well. I figure I'm going to need some sort of filler stuff for the detail work. At this stage I'm thinking either the 'fine filler' I've used for my dome or maybe try out 'builders bog...' Time to go do some research! Or of course if anybody has some suggestions for me I would love to here it, as after all I am here to learn for you guys as a go as well!
So guess all thats left to do before I get is too find the time to get started! Once I do get some time, probably in a few weeks time, the first thing I'm going to do is print out some life size versions of reference material for the shins I can refer to them and maybe trace as well. I figure I'm going to need some sort of filler stuff for the detail work. At this stage I'm thinking either the 'fine filler' I've used for my dome or maybe try out 'builders bog...' Time to go do some research! Or of course if anybody has some suggestions for me I would love to here it, as after all I am here to learn for you guys as a go as well!
Studio 49
Sr Member
Re: McQuarrie Vader WIP Scratch Build & Research (Studio 49)
Update 17:
Ok, it's almost time to get down and dirty, wether it goes well or not!
I went to the hardware store and bought myself a second Soldering Iron, but this one comes with Foam cutting attachments which will be perfect for the initial sculpting were I'm shaving of large chunks to get the basic form.
Hopefully I'm going to be making and printing out life-size images of the shins that I can have on hand for comparison and also to glue onto each side of the blocks to more accurate shaping.
Update 17:
Ok, it's almost time to get down and dirty, wether it goes well or not!
I went to the hardware store and bought myself a second Soldering Iron, but this one comes with Foam cutting attachments which will be perfect for the initial sculpting were I'm shaving of large chunks to get the basic form.
Hopefully I'm going to be making and printing out life-size images of the shins that I can have on hand for comparison and also to glue onto each side of the blocks to more accurate shaping.
Last edited by a moderator:
Studio 49
Sr Member
Re: McQuarrie Vader WIP Scratch Build & Research (Studio 49)
I posted this over on the 501st Legion Forums but figured some might want to see it here as well
I posted this over on the 501st Legion Forums but figured some might want to see it here as well
Before I take too much of a deep dive into the shins there is one thing that needs to be sorted out and I wanted to post it up for a bigger discussion, and that is the impossible anatomy of the shins in the drawing and Koto figure. In the drawings and on the Koto figure, the shins flex and form with the shape of the leg and actually go into a bend once reaching the knee joint. Obviously this is impossible to wear in real life and it was only ok since it was initial a drawing where factors like that didn't apply and then the same on statues/figures where there was no joints required.
For reference here is the isolated underlay that i am in the process of making:
And then three sis by side options
1st - The original version
2nd - Chopped off rear to allow knee joint movement
3rd - Try and compensate (I really don't thin this would work or look good, but figured I'd post it anyway
So with that said, I'm thinking that the second option is the best, most logical and most ergonomic. I'm thinking that by chopping off just the back portion of the shin design in the nee region I will be able to actually move. In my option this shouldn't at all affect the accuracy of the design since once in costume, no one is going to see the backs of the shins anyway thanks to the cape. In reality its hard enough just to see the shins on regular Vaders when they are out and about.
And finally here is a quick WIP overlay I did on an anatomy diagram
Last edited by a moderator:
Studio 49
Sr Member
Also another question that I wanted to get some input on. At this stage I'm thing that the shins are symmetrical and one completed shin mould would be enough to do a pair. From the images below would you also agree with me?
Sidenote: I'm also viewing the ring section thing that's above the knee as a separate part altogether, possibly part of the bodysuit instead
Sidenote: I'm also viewing the ring section thing that's above the knee as a separate part altogether, possibly part of the bodysuit instead
Last edited by a moderator:
modelcitizen
Sr Member
not symetrical. the human body l and r sides being rough mirror images and all....
lest ye want a bulky tire-man gundam costume
lest ye want a bulky tire-man gundam costume
Studio 49
Sr Member
Yeah they do seem like they may be uncomfortable, but I'm gonna do for the love for the project anyways!!! (I must be slightly mad in the head, meh oh well
)
So here's what I'm thinking.
- The front goes over the since the triangular budge is meant to act like the knee plate
- Then the back stops just before the beginning of the bottom of the knee joint
- Then the sides are like a diagonal cut that joins the higher front to the lower back
I'm also going to sculpt it in 2 halves so that I can actually vac form it.
And I just had another thought, does this Vader really need knee height boots??? I mean the shins are a caplet wrap around job so the boots would be hidden anyway in the end. So I'm think if I design it to accommodate the bodysuit with ankle height boots it will be more comfortable and easier to move around in. What say you?
I'm thinking of boots like these. Easy to get and the elastic will be covered by the bottom of the shin.
So here's what I'm thinking.
- The front goes over the since the triangular budge is meant to act like the knee plate
- Then the back stops just before the beginning of the bottom of the knee joint
- Then the sides are like a diagonal cut that joins the higher front to the lower back
I'm also going to sculpt it in 2 halves so that I can actually vac form it.
And I just had another thought, does this Vader really need knee height boots??? I mean the shins are a caplet wrap around job so the boots would be hidden anyway in the end. So I'm think if I design it to accommodate the bodysuit with ankle height boots it will be more comfortable and easier to move around in. What say you?
I'm thinking of boots like these. Easy to get and the elastic will be covered by the bottom of the shin.
Last edited by a moderator:
Studio 49
Sr Member
Re: McQuarrie Vader WIP Scratch Build & Research (Studio 49)
Small update on the helmet, after moving house a few weeks ago and finishing university for the year I finally had some time to get started on painting again. The face is done for the foreseeable future, the lid however not so much... I don't know if I remember posting this, but the Dulux paint I got for final coats was faulty. Never see so much overspray from a can in my life! So I spent some time this afternoon sanding it back a few layers. Planning to fill a few dimples in the surface I missed before and then get onto my nice shiny black layers using way nicer paint this time around! I'll be using Rust-Oleum Gloss Black like I used for face. Hopefully I'll have some pictures soon.
In other RMQ type news, the Mannequin head is on it's way and should be here in under a week! In fact it's kinda what got me back on sanding Bandwagon!
Small update on the helmet, after moving house a few weeks ago and finishing university for the year I finally had some time to get started on painting again. The face is done for the foreseeable future, the lid however not so much... I don't know if I remember posting this, but the Dulux paint I got for final coats was faulty. Never see so much overspray from a can in my life! So I spent some time this afternoon sanding it back a few layers. Planning to fill a few dimples in the surface I missed before and then get onto my nice shiny black layers using way nicer paint this time around! I'll be using Rust-Oleum Gloss Black like I used for face. Hopefully I'll have some pictures soon.
In other RMQ type news, the Mannequin head is on it's way and should be here in under a week! In fact it's kinda what got me back on sanding Bandwagon!
Studio 49
Sr Member
While I wait for paint to dry, I'm going start prepping my files for laser cutting and 3D printing, which hopefully I can begin in a few weeks time when I get access to the workshop. So I will be finalising and prepping the following parts:
- Chestbox (laser cut acrylic)
- Belt Buckle (Mixture of 3D Printing and laser cut acrylic)
- Lightsaber (3D Printed)
- Chestbox (laser cut acrylic)
- Belt Buckle (Mixture of 3D Printing and laser cut acrylic)
- Lightsaber (3D Printed)
Studio 49
Sr Member
Update 18:
Today I received my mannequin, and it's better than I had hoped.
The RMQ Helmet fits it perfectly. The best part is I finally was able to see what the helmet looked like together without it being on my head, and man it looks mighty impressive, even with the lid unfinished! It also is able to stay standing and stable without a base being attached, but I'm still going to make one just to be sure.
I still think its funny that I ended up with a RMQ dome before a Movie dome. Its a worry when you see something you really want and you realise you have the money for it!
(Sorry for the not so great images)
Today I received my mannequin, and it's better than I had hoped.
The RMQ Helmet fits it perfectly. The best part is I finally was able to see what the helmet looked like together without it being on my head, and man it looks mighty impressive, even with the lid unfinished! It also is able to stay standing and stable without a base being attached, but I'm still going to make one just to be sure.
I still think its funny that I ended up with a RMQ dome before a Movie dome. Its a worry when you see something you really want and you realise you have the money for it!
(Sorry for the not so great images)
Last edited by a moderator:
Duncan
New Member
The forms in the boots highly suggest them to be a flexible leather. It'll give you a tighter, more svelte look as indicated by the art, and also be a nice departure from the usual movie Vader look. It's worth a thought! Otherwise you're going to want to cut out space near the back of the knee to allow movement.
What's extra curious is that the Kutobokiya statue seems to have inverted the actual forms of the boot designs. Areas in the model recess in where in the art, they extrude out. Think of it like the Dark Knight version of the batsuit. I've marked out the "plates" in red here.
So using your turn-around, it'd basically end up looking something like this.
Hope that helps and makes sense!
What's extra curious is that the Kutobokiya statue seems to have inverted the actual forms of the boot designs. Areas in the model recess in where in the art, they extrude out. Think of it like the Dark Knight version of the batsuit. I've marked out the "plates" in red here.
So using your turn-around, it'd basically end up looking something like this.
Hope that helps and makes sense!
Last edited:
Similar threads
