Master Replicas Luke ROTJ V2 Saber - Buy one??
- Thread starter Ripcode
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Shinobi
Sr Member
Oh RPF Saber Gods....
I have been bitten by the saber bug! :unsure
Is the Master Replicas Luke ROTJ V2 a good representation??
The prices are dropping on these and it looks like it would be cheaper to buy this one as opposed to building one.
What say ye?
The MR V2 is pretty good - probably the best replica out there. It's the only MR saber I would buy and will probably pick one up someday. There's one in the Junkyard for sale if you want.
Pastor Jedi
Well-Known Member
I make sabers and the V2 is the only MR saber I own because of its accuracy.
I liked this saber, too, but then again I liked all the other MR's I bothered to buy as well!
I can kind of understand why prices are dropping on the Graflexes and MPP's/Heilands -- there are so many frikkin' replicas of those flooding the market now! --, but why this one is beyond me.
Ah well. I never did buy the sabers as a retirement investment. I just wanted to build a weapons collection that couldn't be used to kill me! :lol
I can kind of understand why prices are dropping on the Graflexes and MPP's/Heilands -- there are so many frikkin' replicas of those flooding the market now! --, but why this one is beyond me.
Ah well. I never did buy the sabers as a retirement investment. I just wanted to build a weapons collection that couldn't be used to kill me! :lol
^^^^^ LOL. Never thought of it that way but good point!
Darklighter
Sr Member
:cry ......:lol...... :cry
I picked up one for a little less than retail after they sold out and they seem to be even cheaper now. If you are on the fence consider that MR was able to take measurements from the ROTJ Stunt. This saber shares the same lineage, as the blank came from the same mold. I am very particular about saber replicas that do not come from found items because it is naturally easier to get wrong. More often than not they will wind up too long or partly over-sized due to using only photo reference without an accurate overall length measurement. This means the MR is the most accurate to date, we can only assume they 'nailed' the dimensions. Though, there is a upcoming project here on the RPF for blanks that will be cast just like the original. I'm certain it will be dead on, though I'd be satisfied with near-perfect.:thumbsup
Right now, the only Luke saber I'd buy would be a machined version of the shared stunt saber. I kind of like the OWK-style head better on that than the V2 and Hero ROTJ sabers..
I've got ALL the other Luke sabers now!
The only way I could convince myself to get another Graflex is to play with. I'm not gonna play with the MR/museum-style props. Too much money invested in those!
I COULD see myself getting something like an EL or Phase saber with a detachable light-up blade, though...
I've got ALL the other Luke sabers now!
The only way I could convince myself to get another Graflex is to play with. I'm not gonna play with the MR/museum-style props. Too much money invested in those!
I COULD see myself getting something like an EL or Phase saber with a detachable light-up blade, though...
Ripcode
Well-Known Member
Alrighty, my MR Luke V2 has arrived. :thumbsup
It's pretty sweet and now I need advice on how to weather it.
Sure it's supposed to be weathered....
But the MR looks like a new saber with weathering added. All the exposed metal is bright and shiny! :lol
Advice?
Also to be more accurate, should I add the mylar strip to the "Graflex" clamp?
It's pretty sweet and now I need advice on how to weather it.
Sure it's supposed to be weathered....
But the MR looks like a new saber with weathering added. All the exposed metal is bright and shiny! :lol
Advice?
Also to be more accurate, should I add the mylar strip to the "Graflex" clamp?
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I just got one of these a couple days ago minus the case, papers, etc for $140, and it was a DARN good money spent in my opinion. This is easily the best MR saber I've seen.
Ripcode, if you wnat to weather the metal, you'll first need to strip the clear coat and all the paint (be sure to remove the circuit board first!). Then let the entire saber sit submerged in a tub of vinegar for several hours or possibly overnight. This will dull the metal to a flatter, greyer color. If it seems too weathered after you've taken it out, just go over it with some sandpaper and/or steel wool to bring back some shine and highlights. Then paint away!
Ripcode, if you wnat to weather the metal, you'll first need to strip the clear coat and all the paint (be sure to remove the circuit board first!). Then let the entire saber sit submerged in a tub of vinegar for several hours or possibly overnight. This will dull the metal to a flatter, greyer color. If it seems too weathered after you've taken it out, just go over it with some sandpaper and/or steel wool to bring back some shine and highlights. Then paint away!
cayman shen
Master Member
I got one a few months ago. It's stunning. Buy it!
I'm wondering this myself. I need to rotate my clamp just a teeny bit into an accurate alignment.
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