Limited Run 'Major's Thermoptic Pistol' (2017) Ghost in the Shell

I have had mostly great buying experiences on this forum . but one thing I haven't experienced is the lack of communication of this transaction. PMd you with two small questions. been and gone 5 times now and no response to the above post are my PM.

A little courtesy goes along way

I've sent you a reply to your PM's but wanted to publicly state something here too, I won't go into extreme detail here as the subject is a very sensitive subject for me and my family but I've been dealing with a very difficult situation for some time and it has gotten harder and harder to deal with. But you are right, my lack of response is an issue and not something i'm happy with myself. Please rest assured im working away like crazy to get these ready for you all, I just wish i had a better head space to be able to reply more often. That being said, im going to do my best to have an update for you all tomorrow.

- - - Updated - - -

My Robo Geisha wants to know if there’s any chance these will ship before the end of the year. Possible?

View attachment 774777

View attachment 774778


I'm working like crazy to make it so. Side note, so jealous of your Geisha...
 
Thank You jay. and I'm sorry to here your having life problems. i can most definitely relate to that. hope all works out to your best interest and appreciate your response.


Sean
 
So now that the pistols are all cast its now time to glue together all of the grip sections to the top rails., Now, once again with this being clear resin and there are sections you will be able to see the joining faces, i cant just use something like CA glue in case it dries with a white chalky look that's know to happen or leave the faces with a rough finish since this will be viable. So, with that said, I have to solve this issues so when they are joined together and dry, the join will be nice and clear, but strong.

First off is preparing the surface on the grip sections as these need sanding level in order to create the tightest seal possible.

h.jpg

To start I had to remove the excess material that resulted from the casting, but at the same time be careful not to overdo this as, again with clear cast resin, i can just patch and problem areas, if i make a mistake at this stage, the casting is ruined. Now to keep this as level as possible i would need a guard of some type. Thankfully i have the old mold for the pistol that is now useless since i changed to a different silicon compound. By placing the casting inside the mold, the exposed area on top allows me to sand the materiel away and will naturally act as a leveling device so i cant go too deep with the sander.

Firstly i used my file sander with a low grit sandpaper to quickly chew away the resin and give me a starting point.


a.jpg

With the first sanding pass done, next up is using my palm sander with a higher grit to smooth out the surface and remove the marks created by the first sanding pass.


c.jpg
After the 2nd pass, i remove the casting from the mold and then use an even higher grit sanding board to polish and level out the surface a little more.

e.jpg

With everything now leveled out and prepared, its finally time to glue. For this i used a 2 part epoxy, in this instance its Gorilla Glue. I've used it a lot in the past, I trust it and I know it damn well works. The added benefit, aside from the strength, is that it dries crystal clear, so it will perfectly hide the same marks on the areas of the gun that will be visible once its is all complete.


i.jpg

I apply the glue as thinly as possible to avoid bleeding on the edges once they are put together. This is where the surface preparation really comes into place. they are so evenly level it will create a fanatic bond with needing to use an excess of glue. I used good old clamps to keep the tow halves in place with they dried, and the pressure just helps make that bond even stronger.


f.jpg

On a side note, I made sure that when I clamped the pieces I used EVA foam on the contact points to ensure that the clamps wouldn't mark the surface in any way. Once again, EVA finds its way into yet another one of my projects.


g.jpg

I left these guns like this for 24 hours each, just to be sure that the bond is left to set as strong as possible.


d.jpg

With this process nailed down, I simply repeated it with the other guns one by one. I've only a few more to go and then its time to move onto preparing the front sections of the gun and then being finally ready for paint. Stay Tuned!


b.jpg
 
I just want to add this here as a separate thing without getting too deep as to what I'm going through. The level of support and understanding from this community is utterly overwhelming, without question I've not known such an amazing group of people who have come together based purely on the passion we all share. Being a part of this community truly is an amazing thing, and to those who have PM'd me (you know who you are) Thank you.
 
Last edited:
Hi - I assume I can get into the 2nd run if I send payment now? Or is it just interest? Either way, put me down for the 2nd run!
 
Last edited:
As you can imagine, Christmas has made it hard to get any free time to provide any update or spend as much time is I would like in the workshop, but here’s an update for you all regardless. I’m in the UK visiting family for the holidays for a few days but wanted to make sure I gave you all something.

With the guns all glued together it’s time to get the triggers all attached.

7b48bdfe9fa4736cd7d0bb90d0557892.jpg


To attach them I used the same epoxy glue I used to attach the rails to the grips. Even on small pieces like this, the epoxy is extremely strong, I’m still blown away by how good it is.

0c48571302130f04543347f848f59710.jpg


Next up is fixing the gaps at the front section of the gun. This should be one joined piece but because they we cast in 2 halves this needs to be patch with some spot putty. Because these front areas are painted rather than clear, these are much more straight forward to fix.

a5b4871df9c891df447920e3f94ffcb1.jpg


Once the bondo is set, I file these areas smooth and flush using progressively finer grades of diamond files.

4bff847e33a186d4d88ad479fb61b259.jpg


Once these are all flat, I re-detail some of the areas to make sure everything is as it should be.

268dec56b76fbdea0627c629e1fbb7ae.jpg


And with that done, I’m now read to start adding some of the last detail parts before we are finally ready for clear coating and painting. The end is in sight!

8785807f4f3289b8394d784b4f49d0a3.jpg


I just want to say a few words here about this project. I totally understand that this has taken a lot longer than first predicted when I first started this. There are areas I could have just found a basic work around to make things faster but I am one of those people who believes if you are going to do something, do it the best you can. A lot of research at almost every stage of this has gone into making sure that I use the best, tools, techniques and materials possible to make these the best they can be. I know this has made the first run longer, but it will without doubt be a much faster process for any run to follow because of all I’ve learned here and hopefully these detailed notes will help anyone else doing anything similar moving forward.

My finishing date for this 1st run realistically is going to be the end of January just to make sure these last few stages are done correctly and shipped out to those involved. I will post an update about when I will start taking bookings for the 2nd run around the 2nd week of January so those who have been asking, you get more information around that time.

I want to thank everyone involved for your continued patience, support and continued comments, I hope everyone had a fantastic holiday period and wish you all the best for the new year.

Stay Safe and keep on Making.
 
Brilliant work! Looking great.

Please add me to the interest list for the second run. Thanks mate!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Brilliant work! Looking great.

Please add me to the interest list for the second run. Thanks mate!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you and done! I’ve added you and everyone else who wished to be added to the 2nd run list.

the list is as follows:

**********
Second Run (due to start January 2018)
**********

1) juajn7fernandez (Interested)
2) loveyuri (Interested)
3) Win7ermute (Interested)
4) Ultra Lord(Interest
ed)
5) el_toro (Interested)
6) Jedisushi (Interested)
7) marcuslaw (Interested)
8) apocalyptickids (Interested)
9) shpider (Interested)
10) pcenginefx (Interested)
11) tmax (Interested)
12) Sam Lowry (Interested)
13) BlindVoyeur (Interested)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Amazing work. Anyone can tell that your replica is by far the best-looking and most accurate version available. Looking forward to your next run.
 
Might be very hard for this particular project... but I want to ask. (As I do for all blaster/gun props I'm interested in... any plans for a "working version"?) As in working trigger and hollowed out or space for one to add electronics for lights and sounds? Get work either way!!
 
Might be very hard for this particular project... but I want to ask. (As I do for all blaster/gun props I'm interested in... any plans for a "working version"?) As in working trigger and hollowed out or space for one to add electronics for lights and sounds? Get work either way!!

Maybe down the line at some point. Learning the in’s & out’s of casting clear resin has been a task all of there own so if was toying with the idea at this point of working internals is probably be still stuck at the concept stage. That being said, I’ve learned a lot about the material, how it works, strengths/weaknesses etc so it is something I will delve into in the future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the update sir! No problem on the delay. It's amazing to see how stuff like this comes together. I'm already down for the 2nd run and am ready to throw $ at you anytime :thumbsup
 
Back
Top