Luna's Ultimate Spider-Man Build, Orhadar Print. [Pic Heavy]

Lunaman correct me if I'm wrong but did you say you saw someone do this suit but actually puffed painted the webs? If so do you remember who it was? I'm curious to compare both the pigma pen to the puff paint before I do anything with mine. Thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
JSspidey said:
@Lunaman correct me if I'm wrong but did you say you saw someone do this suit but actually puffed painted the webs? If so do you remember who it was? I'm curious to compare both the pigma pen to the puff paint before I do anything with mine. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I did mention that, yea. But I don't remember his name, unfortunately, he used the comic book pattern with TJack's McFarlane style lenses. His pictures were in Las Vegas. That's all I remember.
 
Hi Tjack

I'm interested to purchase this exact combo of TASM2 mask and domed lenses.

Can you please PM me the cost including shipping to Sydney Australia please?

Thanks
Darren

Tjack2.jpgTjack1.jpg
 
Lunaman said:
I got pretty good results using Dye-Na-Flow by Jaquard with the Airfix additive to catalyze and set the dye without heat. Here's the result on my ASM2 suit, which I'm working on making a tutorial for (it's just taking a really long time because of how complicated the build was and figuring out how to explain it with pictures):

http://i.imgur.com/Vq948Dl.jpg
Click to expand...

Holy O_O that looks gorgeous! The colors are so rich! When you did the dying process did it take away from the webs or front spider?
 
JSspidey said:
Holy O_O that looks gorgeous! The colors are so rich!
Click to expand...
Thanks.
JSspidey said:
When you did the dying process did it take away from the webs or front spider?
Click to expand...
Well, I mean, yea--it tinted them red. That's kind of what dye does. ;) After dying I went in and enhanced all of the weblines by hand to make them a deep black (I don't care for the fake 3D printed look to begin with) and I made a chest spider out of latex.
 
Lunaman said:
You want the collar to be as high as you can make it, though most of the overlap will come from the extra length of the mask underneath. With my only suit that had a separated mask, this point was around one set of webs down from where the throat dart normally ends (the throat dart is that oval shape on the neck of the pattern that needs to be sewn together to make the neck narrow).

http://i.imgur.com/5Er6HwDl.jpg


I have a questions about your separate mask suit. Did you still have the fabric bunching up around the neck when you had the mask on? I always ran into that issue on my suits.
Click to expand...
 
man your TASM2 suit is too clean! I am waiting to see the tutorial for it! I have been interested and researching on getting a mask and the red on your suit just pops and I love it. I been hesitant in getting a print done with white lycra and really want one done with colored fabric but might try out how you dyed yours depending how difficult it is lol. Whos print did you go with for your tasm2 if you don't mind me asking?
 
JSspidey said:
I have a questions about your separate mask suit. Did you still have the fabric bunching up around the neck when you had the mask on? I always ran into that issue on my suits.
Click to expand...
There will always be a degree of fabric bunching and layering at the neck for a separate mask--that's the price of admission for the convenience.

mikkoxB said:
man your TASM2 suit is too clean! I am waiting to see the tutorial for it! I have been interested and researching on getting a mask and the red on your suit just pops and I love it. I been hesitant in getting a print done with white lycra and really want one done with colored fabric but might try out how you dyed yours depending how difficult it is lol. Whos print did you go with for your tasm2 if you don't mind me asking?
Click to expand...
Thanks. My first TASM2 suit is a modified Orhadar print.
 
Good job on the custom made suit :cool
I was looking at the pattern on the soles though and was wondering whether you have any grip at all when walking around outside/at conventions (e.g.: on carpet or polished tiles).
Would EVA Foam with a pattern pose the same problem? If so,what soles would provide the best grip?
Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Hey Luna,

I myself am looking into the Spidey suit (black version), using the same method you did however there's one concern I had unless maybe its just the angle of the photos... it seems the front half as compared to the back half of your mask is 2 different shades in color? is this a side effect of the printing or maybe it was just the camera angle?

The other thing I was looking into was using urethane webbing (to be more of a movie quality suit) instead of the dye sublimation. Did you ever look into that as an option? I'm thinking it would be much more expensive than just printing but I'm not sure how much it would cost, any thoughts?
 
jdawson01 said:
Hey Luna,

I myself am looking into the Spidey suit (black version), using the same method you did however there's one concern I had unless maybe its just the angle of the photos... it seems the front half as compared to the back half of your mask is 2 different shades in color? is this a side effect of the printing or maybe it was just the camera angle?
Click to expand...
It's a matter of where the seam is placed, so, camera angle and pattern design.

jdawson01 said:
The other thing I was looking into was using urethane webbing (to be more of a movie quality suit) instead of the dye sublimation. Did you ever look into that as an option? I'm thinking it would be much more expensive than just printing but I'm not sure how much it would cost, any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Urethane webbing is exceedingly expensive to do properly. It requires you to create a custom 3D file of the webbing pieces scaled to fit you and only you, and then use that file to cut a negative mold out of your mold material via a CNC mill, usually aluminum. Then that extremely expensive mold needs to be filled with urethane to cure, and the webbing needs to be demolded, cleaned of flashing, trimmed, then you need a custom full-body mannequin to wear the suit, because you can't attach the webbing before sewing, and the webbing needs to be hand placed and adhered to the suit with one drop of glue at a time, leaving space between the adhesion points so that the stretch factor of the fabric and the urethane can adjust independently.

^This is not an undertaking I recommend people chase after alone if they've never done a suit before. Your best bet for urethane webs is to buy suit elements from someone who has already done all of the legwork and already has the molds and patterns in question. Someone like Yuri at SpideyPlanet or Brad McDowall at Spidey4fun. Then you will only have to pay for their labor and materials, instead of for the entire R&D process.
Here's Brad's symbiote suit with urethane webbing:
http://www.spidey4fun.ncable.net.au/black_urethane_sui.htm
 
Actually it is completely possible to attach about 85% of your raised webbing before you sew. That is how they did the Raimi suit. There is even behind the scenes footage that shows them doing that. You need to leave enough unglued to be able to sew the seams up. Now, that having been said you probably need a high degree of skill at sewing and your print had better be pretty well sized to you. I haven't used urethane personally. My webs are silicone (Dragon Skin to be specific).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

paxtoprime94
Idea for Iron Man Suit that you can step right in/out of
Replies
1
Views
439
renaissance_man
renaissance_man
paxtoprime94
“FABRIC” IRON MAN SUIT? (Fabric-covered foam?)
Replies
2
Views
530
Kolin86
Kolin86
Colby8128
Spider-Man Dark Suit PS4
Replies
3
Views
1,052
Colby8128
Colby8128
Surrational0
Corrupted Captain America Finished (Pic Heavy)
Replies
14
Views
2,233
Malibu139
Malibu139
ClayTheSpider15
Spider-Man Suit Printing Help and Other Tips
Replies
0
Views
534
ClayTheSpider15
ClayTheSpider15
Back
Top