Interest Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (first article pics added post #189)

Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

Actually, I am glad you asked this.
I would like the boards feedback on two things I wanted to change from the first run.
First, I am thinking of making the neck piece ( the part under the emitter ) out of actual copper instead of aluminum. I think the original was aluminum but man, polished copper looks so good.
Second, I am thinking of a separate plate on the control box that the arrows go on that would be screwed on. It looks to me that that is what is going on with the original.
How do you guys feel about these points?


First let me say a HUGE thank you for not only taking this on, but being open to slight changes in your original design. VERY cool :)

I would say that a lot of the discussion for slight changes has been discussed here:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=61706&highlight=nicksdad+rotj+saber


Most notably (aside from those already mentioned) are these:

1) The hole in the pommel and the raised ring around it


2) Plastic stripes on each side of the control box, right below the circuit board
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

I would be interested in a version with without the control box to convert it to a Yuma Saber, if possible.

Matt
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

Actually, I am glad you asked this.
I would like the boards feedback on two things I wanted to change from the first run.
First, I am thinking of making the neck piece ( the part under the emitter ) out of actual copper instead of aluminum. I think the original was aluminum but man, polished copper looks so good.
Second, I am thinking of a separate plate on the control box that the arrows go on that would be screwed on. It looks to me that that is what is going on with the original.
How do you guys feel about these points?

Sound great.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

Put me down for 1.
And I think the changes you have in mind sound great. Especially the cooper neck piece!

Terry
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

Actually, I am glad you asked this.
I would like the boards feedback on two things I wanted to change from the first run.
First, I am thinking of making the neck piece ( the part under the emitter ) out of actual copper instead of aluminum. I think the original was aluminum but man, polished copper looks so good.
Second, I am thinking of a separate plate on the control box that the arrows go on that would be screwed on. It looks to me that that is what is going on with the original.
How do you guys feel about these points?

I would like it if the place where the arrows attached were cut/milled out so that placement was correct and a little more stable.

The other thing I would like is if the control box was made so that if the builder wished, they activation plate could slide open and circuitry could be added to resemble the deleted scene.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

I would like it if the place where the arrows attached were cut/milled out so that placement was correct and a little more stable.

The other thing I would like is if the control box was made so that if the builder wished, they activation plate could slide open and circuitry could be added to resemble the deleted scene.


Agreed.


-Ss
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

Actually, I am glad you asked this.
I would like the boards feedback on two things I wanted to change from the first run.
First, I am thinking of making the neck piece ( the part under the emitter ) out of actual copper instead of aluminum. I think the original was aluminum but man, polished copper looks so good.
Second, I am thinking of a separate plate on the control box that the arrows go on that would be screwed on. It looks to me that that is what is going on with the original.
How do you guys feel about these points?

I would vote against copper, and for all aluminum. I'm in the accuracy camp, vs. idealized.

I would be into a separate plate on the side of the control box, as that does look to be the case on the real prop, held on with those two tiny screws. I also agree with what MJF said about the triangles being set into cutouts in said plate. This is definitely the case on the real prop. Of course then Pastor Jedi's triangles need to be long enough to pass through those holes and pop out a bit, like real LED's.

I would like it if the place where the arrows attached were cut/milled out so that placement was correct and a little more stable.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

I think a copper neck option would be awesome. For those who prefer the slightly dulled/textured look of the original, I'm sure there is a way to etch or texture the copper to more closely match the painted look of the original. Or they can add copper-colored paint to the real copper neck to tone it down a bit.

I also vote for cut holes for the triangle LEDs, and pretty much everything else in Jedi Reali 's 2nd paragraph above.
 
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Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit


What's up with the plate in the above photo? There's no such part on the real prop. The ISYCANL saber just has the circuit board and two copper rails on top of the box, and the MoM saber has the same, but adds two notched grey bars beneath the copper rails to allow the circuit board to slide open. It would be cool if you could offer both versions of the control box.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

Interested

EDIT: I would also vote for a copper neck. That would save us the hassle of having to get it painted or plated.
 
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Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

Interested. The copper neck sounds awesome.

A couple questions:
1. When are you going to collect the payment?
2. When are you expecting to finish the run/deliver (rough estimate)?
3. Is there anything that we would need to add/provide to finish the kit other than paint/weathering?
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

I think the copper neck is an awesome idea, and if possible copper on the two top rails on the control box would be amazing (although pushing it) :)

Im trying to make both for a Luke Hero that I have now.

The control box arrows being on a separate piece do sound great and accurate.

Will using copper raise the price a lot? I've heard that its tough to cut. Im sure its not a big deal for professionals.

Awesome project regardless of where you land!

Actually, I am glad you asked this.
I would like the boards feedback on two things I wanted to change from the first run.
First, I am thinking of making the neck piece ( the part under the emitter ) out of actual copper instead of aluminum. I think the original was aluminum but man, polished copper looks so good.
Second, I am thinking of a separate plate on the control box that the arrows go on that would be screwed on. It looks to me that that is what is going on with the original.
How do you guys feel about these points?
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

I'm also curious about the size, as others have mentioned. The pic of the original saber in the other thread shows it as slightly longer than a Graflex. Will yours have this correct length? Thanks!
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

I would like to address the size question.
I have heard comments that some other replicas are too small ( MR, etc.. ).
My last replica was a little over 11 inches. I have seen the blueprints online and it seems that the suggested length is 11 1/4 inches.
Does anyone know if this is a correct measurement. I mean, did someone actually measure the original saber or is this sizing based on the casting sized up to try and allow for shrinkage.
 
Re: Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Kit (pics added post #41)

I would like to address the size question.
I have heard comments that some other replicas are too small ( MR, etc.. ).
My last replica was a little over 11 inches. I have seen the blueprints online and it seems that the suggested length is 11 1/4 inches.
Does anyone know if this is a correct measurement. I mean, did someone actually measure the original saber or is this sizing based on the casting sized up to try and allow for shrinkage.

Based on the pic below of the screen-used ESB and ROTJ sabers posted in the thread mentioned above, the ROTJ hero looks to be about 105.3% of the length of a Graflex:

Graflex%20vs.%20ROTJ%20with%20lines_zpsqne4inzj.jpg~original


When I saved this image after drawing the red lines, the lines shifted a bit upwards. Feel free to disregard them and measure the two lengths for yourself, dividing the smaller into the larger to see if you get a result more/less than 1.053.

So according to Darth Lars in another thread, the length of his 3-cell can vary from 26.9cm (10.6") to 27.2cm (10.7"), depending on whether or not the bottom tube is push in vs. pulled out all the way. There is this .1" of play. Assuming 10.65", since we don't know in which position the bottom tube was in in the photograph above, and assuming the 105.3%-larger calculation is correct on my part, I get about 11.21", or about 11 7/32" as the total length of the ROTJ hero.

What do I win? :D
 
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