Luke ANH Lightsaber D-Ring

Nice work ... that D is quite acceptable ... as long as you're happy ... so am I :) ... awaiting your own OT saber thread soon ;)

Chaim
 
Hey Guys,

I don't post here much anymore, but wanted to comment on this thread. I have the original 8" x 10" photo of the "Toe Pic" that I scanned and shared with the RPF many years ago. With that being said, looking at the original print I feel like the bracket they used to hold the d-ring is in fact made from aluminum. That's why it looks "white" in the photo of the "Toe Pic", If it were made from steel, it would better match the shade of the Graflex and d-ring itself.

In case you may be wondering, I found the "Toe Pic" print on eBay several years ago. A guy had a ton of different "Hollywood" prints on eBay for sale, and this was one of them. I actually lost the bidding for it, so I sent him an e-mail asking if the high bidder didn't follow through with the sale, that I would be interrested in it. He let me know that he had one more copy. My print looks like it has a little bit of red paint overspray on it, but I'm not going to try and clean it. Chris Trevas did some touch up on the scan.

It's a very interresting print and back then it helped us to solidify that there were in fact 7 grips on the saber prop instead of 6.

- Jim Fowler
 
I found a couple of these on a market stall. A little small but I'm in no position to make one myself, what do you think?

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk18/matspratt/th_P1050878_zpscc973a86.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk18/matspratt/th_P1050881_zps69427a2e.jpg


I keep seeing this model in most searches and I even bought a few. The only other acceptable one is pretty big but doable. If you can't make your own, I think you have to either go bigger or smaller depending on your aesthetic. I went bigger and have been happy with it.

Good luck with your build!
 
Hi Roy, I have posted some new stuff on a thread, where I have used the D ring off a Graflex case, I just found your reply now, and to my amazement, I measured the D ring, and you are spot on from your reverse engineering, the inner diameter of the Graflex case D ring is 22mm. At one point I also thought they used the mount for the D ring off the actual camera, but when I tried to use it, it was way too hard to insert the D ring into it, and could not imagine a prop builder wasting time.
 
Hey Guys,

I don't post here much anymore, but wanted to comment on this thread. I have the original 8" x 10" photo of the "Toe Pic" that I scanned and shared with the RPF many years ago. With that being said, looking at the original print I feel like the bracket they used to hold the d-ring is in fact made from aluminum. That's why it looks "white" in the photo of the "Toe Pic", If it were made from steel, it would better match the shade of the Graflex and d-ring itself.

In case you may be wondering, I found the "Toe Pic" print on eBay several years ago. A guy had a ton of different "Hollywood" prints on eBay for sale, and this was one of them. I actually lost the bidding for it, so I sent him an e-mail asking if the high bidder didn't follow through with the sale, that I would be interrested in it. He let me know that he had one more copy. My print looks like it has a little bit of red paint overspray on it, but I'm not going to try and clean it. Chris Trevas did some touch up on the scan.

It's a very interresting print and back then it helped us to solidify that there were in fact 7 grips on the saber prop instead of 6.

- Jim Fowler

You could be right with the plate being aluminium, although being an engineer I've worked with a lot of different materials.

Back in 1976-77 when the movie was being made, aluminium was the most likely material to have been used - Its easy to work with and to some extent, less expensive. However, I have worked with various steel sheeting and the material in the image could also be zinc coated mild steel, around 1-1.25mm thick - it has a very light look to it due to the zinc coating.
It is true however that sheet steel no matter what it is has obviously moved on since the 70's, and therefore I could be just thinking out loud as it were, but whether it is aluminium or zinc coated mild steel is anyone's guess...Although having really thought about it, aluminium would be the easier - less costly approach.
 
The clip made by my silversmith was very thin steel ... if I recall correctly ... I held a magnet to it ... but the pull of the rivet is stronger ... so could be aluminium too :wacko

Chaim
 
The clip made by my silversmith was very thin steel ... if I recall correctly ... I held a magnet to it ... but the pull of the rivet is stronger ... so could be aluminium too :wacko

Chaim

Mmmm...Interesting. Anyway Chaim...Those D-Rings came this morning and they aren't any good, but with a little more searching I found some rings that are very accurate - bought them off eBay here in the UK.

I am going to look at some materials we have at work tomorrow, and if anything spots my eye...IT'S MINE!;). The strange thing is, the one that was on the hilt when Daren at JQ originally placed on there isn't actually that bad - It isn't the conventional D-Ring type of attachment though - more in the way of a flat piece of brushed aluminium plate(around 1.5-2mm thick and has a half circle 'hook' on the end, which of course when bolted to the hilt looks very clean.

I was thinking of using that piece and drilling the 'hook' out to accommodate the new ring/s I have ordered, as they are 3mm in diameter, whereas the original is roughly 2.5mm and is very tight in there.
Then, all I would have to do is shape the edge, drill a larger hole for the rivet and bob's your uncle!:). Again though, I have to now wait until the rings come, which should be tomorrow if Royal Mail gets their act together!.

Decisions decision's eh...When will it end...?

P.S. OH..., by the way, that clip I already have is exactly the same colour as in the 'Toe pic' photo...So will have to see what I can come up with.
 
A couple of pages back - This is the clip that came with my custom G R A F L E X.

http://graflexsabers.com/graflex-image-4.html


This is why I want to change it. My hilt is a Park's Reproduction one and that is the clip which was on it. Either it came with the hilt or Daren at JQ put it on - which I very much doubt he did. Its kind of a cross between ANH and ESB, and frankly, doesn't look right.
If you take a good look though, the colour match isn't that far off, and if I can manage to modify it in order to accommodate the new rings I have ordered, it might just be what I am wanting for my G R A F L E X.

The clip is very strong as it is so no worries in that department.

Anyway, until the rings come I will have to keep a look out for some material...
 
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Now I am confused...:confused

Just been on the 'Parts Of Star Wars' to look at some reference images and underneath this image:

lssabanh2.jpg
...it states: (Note: All the photos above are post and pre-production photos. For filming, the top of the flashgun was turned 180 degrees.)

Now, I hope someone can clear this up for me because it is literally driving me crazy..., Which part or end are they referring to? - Do they mean the part where the 'bunny ears' are or do they mean the clamp was turned 180 degrees?

Someone just tell me what they talk about please!
 
It's the position of the so-called bunny ears ... as seen in this schematic of Luke's lightsaber



and please disregard the position of the text since that's unique on every real G R A F L E X.

And please don't freak out on every single nut or bold or scratch in the original as compared
to your replica ... everyone who has made a Luke ANH or ESB lightsaber has produced a part
of movie history as far as I'm concerned whether real or replica ... 'don't make it real . . . make
it believable!' When you have friends over ... they'll all be jealous for you having Luke's saber!

Chaim

P.S. my D-rings are 2.5mm not 3mm ... and yes try to 'fix' that clip it can be done as seen here :



By the way ... I've seen JQ saber's Luke ANH made originally by Parks and you may reconsider
getting a more accurate bubble strip from Roy :lol
 
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It's the position of the so-called bunny ears and please disregard the position of the text since that's unique on every real G R A F L E X.

And please don't freak out on every single nut or bold or scratch in the original as compared
to your replica ... everyone who has made a Luke ANH or ESB lightsaber has produced a part
of movie history as far as I'm concerned whether real or replica ... 'don't make it real . . . make
it believable!' When you have friends over ... they'll all be jealous for you having Luke's saber!

Chaim

P.S. my D-rings are 2.5mm not 3mm ... and yes try to 'fix' that clip.

By the way ... I've seen JQ saber's Luke ANH made originally by Parks and you may reconsider
getting a more accurate bubble strip from Roy
:lol


Forgive me but, I am not sure what you mean by getting a more 'accurate' bubble strip from Roy...?

The bubble strip I have has 7 bubbles and not the 8 that can be seen on many images on Google. Whether Daren at JQ put the accurate one on I am not too sure but I can assure you it is correct.

Anyway, as for the clip..., the one in the photo you kindly posted above isn't the same as I have.
 
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Here is my hilt/saber. These images were taken by Daren at JQ Sabers before he sent out the hilt - he had some finishing up to do along with installing the soundfonts & configuring the settings in R.I.C.E. . Look at the bottom of my hilt of the clip if you can:














There you have it!
 
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Okay ... the bubble strip posted on JQ's website had more than 7 ... so yours looks good ... and indeed that clip is a slightly different ... however perhaps you can arrange yours to look like it with your engineer skills ... just add a more round D-ring then the one used which looks more ready for Vader or Luke ESB :)

By the way ... nice reveal crystal focus lightsaber indeed :love

Chaim
 
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Okay ... the bubble strip posted on JQ's website had more than 7 ... so yours looks good ... and indeed that clip is a slightly different ... however perhaps you can arrange yours to look like it with your engineer skills ... just add a more round D-ring then the one used which looks more ready for Vader or Luke ESB :)

By the way ... nice reveal crystal focus lightsaber indeed :love

Chaim

Thanks Chaim!, and please don't misunderstand me, I wasn't trying to cause a debate over the strip.:thumbsup
Yeah, in regards to the D-ring, I have ordered a couple from eBay that seem to be the 'correct' shape and size, but time will tell I guess. As soon as they come, I will get to work.

Anyway, got to go now the boss is on the prowl! :(...Nice to hear you like the hilt and reveal though...means a lot!

Talk soon - Phil.
 
FullSizeRender.jpgFullSizeRender 2.jpgDon't know if somebody else's figure this out have not read all the posts. But being a prop maker for the past 20 years I do know how we shop for pieces of hardware. This is a D ring I found from a German camera case from the late 50s early 60s.
I can imagine the prop maker going in to a camera store and grabbing pieces.when I compare it to the reference pictures The scale looks almost perfect. Just wanting to see if anybody else is figure this out or I'm totally off-base

FullSizeRender 2.jpg


FullSizeRender.jpg
 
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Hi KENCO, welcome aboard ... and no you're not far off-base ... I have suggested that quite some time ago myself with these D-rings that hold the handle of a G R A F L E X Camera case :







However your D-ring + clip seem to be a bit smaller than the original. The D should extend just a little over the edge. What's the size of the D and the clip?

Looking forward to your finished Luke ANH lightsaber ... wannawanga.com if you need some T-tracks. Since I suppose you'll want a real Exactra 19 or 20 for the bubblestrip?

Chaim
 
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Hi ya gang,

Wow, it's been 8 years since I've been on the board, glad to be back!

Re-starting my Graflex Luke ANH build back again after getting R2-D2 out of moth balls, man things have changed - but the basics have not.

Below are some links to my web page including a link to a ~10 year old web page on my Luke ANH Light Sabre build, there are several links there regarding grip strips, 'D' rings, etc. BTW: back then managed to score 2 real Graflex's off of Ebay for around $130 each.

Look forward to being active again, this group is great! Now, need to get up to date on everything...

Anyway, here are some links to my web site, it's old info but might help and let me know what you think:

Graflex Assembly and 'D' ring reference photo's here: http://www.flyingfatcats.com/noluck/GraflexLuxeonAssembly.html
ANH Light Saber Build Page Main Menu: http://www.flyingfatcats.com/noluck/LightsaberConstructionMain.html
Graflex Dis-assembly: http://www.flyingfatcats.com/noluck/GraflexDisassemblyandAssembly.html

My Main Page: http://flyingfatcats.com/
My R2-D2 Droid Build Page: http://flyingfatcats.com/projects/r2d2/

Look forward to chatting, and let's get building and finish this thing up!

Cheers,

George 'Chip' Luck

---
 
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Hi George,

Well since this is the D-ring thread ... your Charles Wallace Design Studios D-ring was your best choice if you'd ask me, it's more round as it should be ... seems like you went with your MR as your template saber to recreate Luke's ANH G R A F L E X based lighstaber, correct? Also saberfreaks T-tracks were the best at the time being plastic as per original saber.

Since you've been 'away' there's an even better option check out Roy's ANH kit at wannawanga.com Looking forward to another thread with your own current G R A F L E X lightsaber build :)

Chaim
 
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