Loose X-wing cannons - modeling noob needs glue tips

Cadger

Well-Known Member
I recently received a 1:24 scale X-wing model I purchased from another RPF member. Three of it's four cannos came loose during shipping. I need to glue them back on. On one of the wings the mount point is chipped. (See photo below.) The three others are fine.

At hand I have the Gorilla super glue gel and some tubes of E6000. Since there is some stress on this small mount point my first instinct is to use a glob of E6000, which is strong and can take a litte movement.

But I have zero experience with model building so I though it would be wise to get some input first. Should I go ahead, or should I use another type of glue?
 

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My recommendation is to use both. E6000 is stronger, but takes hours upon hours to cure, and holding the part in place can be very difficult. So I would use a tiny dab of superglue surrounded by a little more of E6000. The superglue holds it in place while the E6000 works.

I've done this a few times. Even used hot glue to hold something in place for the E6000 to cure.

Don't worry about squeeze-out; you can scrape off the excess after it's fully cured.
 
My recommendation is to use both. E6000 is stronger, but takes hours upon hours to cure, and holding the part in place can be very difficult. So I would use a tiny dab of superglue surrounded by a little more of E6000. The superglue holds it in place while the E6000 works.

I've done this a few times. Even used hot glue to hold something in place for the E6000 to cure.

Don't worry about squeeze-out; you can scrape off the excess after it's fully cured.
This. Tack in place with cyanoacrylate (super glue), and E6000 as suggested.
 
I would use Devcon Plastic Welder; it's much stronger than most anything else out there (3.500 PSI) and sets in 4 minutes, cures hard after an hour. It also has better shear strength than cyanoacrylate (super glue) and will last forever when cured.

I use it to make my prop and model scratchbuilds.
 
I would use Devcon Plastic Welder; it's much stronger than most anything else out there (3.500 PSI) and sets in 4 minutes, cures hard after an hour. It also has better shear strength than cyanoacrylate (super glue) and will last forever when cured.

I use it to make my prop and model scratchbuilds.
If it's a welder, it probably won't work with this model. It's a 1:24 X-wing which is likely a resin model, and welders don't work on resin because they are designed to work on styrene, ABS, and other similar thermoplastics. Polyurethane and other resins like it are the product of a chemical reaction with different chemicals than styrene and won't react to plastic welders because they work by melting the two surfaces and fusing them together. Resin can't be melted in such a way that it won't break down, which is why you must use a glue of some kind like superglue or epoxy resin to hold the parts together.
 
If it's a welder, it probably won't work with this model. It's a 1:24 X-wing which is likely a resin model, and welders don't work on resin because they are designed to work on styrene, ABS, and other similar thermoplastics. Polyurethane and other resins like it are the product of a chemical reaction with different chemicals than styrene and won't react to plastic welders because they work by melting the two surfaces and fusing them together. Resin can't be melted in such a way that it won't break down, which is why you must use a glue of some kind like superglue or epoxy resin to hold the parts together.
No; it's this:

Devcon PW.jpg



It's a two part epoxy like adhesive that creates a tremendously strong bond between the parts. It itself is a type of resin; it's not a welder like you're thinking (heat melting the parts together).

Believe me:,I know resins don't work like that; I would never suggest something that would ruin a piece (not to mention things like the welders you're thinking of don't have a "PSI rating" as I mentioned). And this product is far more resilient than super glue or E6000.

Anyways, I'm done in this thread.




*Next time I want to feel like talking to a brick wall, there's a nice one right outside my bedroom window*
 
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Ah, okay. I've never even heard of that product before; I've used two-part epoxy plenty of times, so I'm guessing it's just a brand that's not sold in my area. A "welder" implies to me that it melts and fuses the surface (i.e. welds) so I thought you were talking about something similar to Plastruct's welder or Tamiya Super Thin. Though, I know better than to think they use heat; it's a chemical process, not a thermal one.

Man, they really need to change the name of that product... :oops: But at least I know better. Sorry!
 
I am considering getting some for my personal use, considering what you guys said. This has definitely been one of those "Better to keep your mouth shut and let people think you're stupid" moments, though. :lol:
 
I'll have to disagree, you didn't sound stupid at all.
The kind we use at work is a more industrial version.

Screenshot_20231214_184255_Google.jpg
 
Ah, okay. I've never even heard of that product before; I've used two-part epoxy plenty of times, so I'm guessing it's just a brand that's not sold in my area. A "welder" implies to me that it melts and fuses the surface (i.e. welds) so I thought you were talking about something similar to Plastruct's welder or Tamiya Super Thin. Though, I know better than to think they use heat; it's a chemical process, not a thermal one.

Man, they really need to change the name of that product... :oops: But at least I know better. Sorry!

That epoxy's secret ingredient is Methyl-methacrylate which is what gives it that great smell.
 
I gotta say, I have been toying with the idea of drilling and countersinking some screws onto mine. Built nearly 15 years ago and moved a few times. One always is detached.
 
Good tip! Always looking for new adhesives. Was just using some 'JB Weld' which is a two part, 'steel filled' epoxy (again, with the weld, they must be thinking of the kind of 'welding' where the rod is melted in the joint to create the bead, vice the other kind that melts the material at the joint to create the 'bead'.) JB however cures with a slightly flexible form, rather easy to scrape - but holds tough, good for the 3D printed resin kit I was assembling.

Cheers!
 
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