Lighters to collect that were used in movies
- Thread starter VonMagnum
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VonMagnum
Sr Member
Dunhill Sterling Silver "Windproof" Rope Lighter (aka Foxhole lighter)(1946)
Continuing the Dunhill splurge.... (although I got this for a mere $35; sterling silver lighters usually cost significantly. My one lighter book shows it for about 3x that price with no mention of sterling silver, so I'm not certain they all came in Sterling silver, but every one I've seen so far is Sterling). Other sellers on eBay have it for $80-150+ so I think I got a deal.
This is of an extremely similar design to the IMCO Foxhole rope lighter I showed some pages back, except it's a Dunhill so of course they had to make it higher-end by using Sterling Silver, although gauging by how much I had to polish the rounded parts which were tarnished badly, I'm guessing only the center section is actually Sterling Silver as it had no tarnish whatsoever on that section. Even the ball on top needed polished.
In any case, the top of the rope wasn't charred, so I'm guessing this thing was never used. It didn't come with a box or extra rope like the IMCO did, but it's not like I'm going to use all that rope. I bet the extra rope I have fits this one too. I wouldn't be shocked if they were made in the same factory, even given the similarity in design and unusual USA manufacturing (Their service lighter was made in the USA in addition to Britain and Switzerland, I believe).
Regardless, it works the same way. You have to char the top of the rope with a flame before it'll work (so you'll need another lighter or a match or a candle or something to burn the top a bit until it's charred across evenly. You pull the bottom of the rope and it goes down into the lighter body with the ball top cutting off the oxygen to put out the burning ember (otherwise, it won't want to go out seeing as blowing on it or the wind blowing on it just makes it burn that much faster and brighter). I suppose if it broke, you could douse it in water or otherwise find a way to cut the oxygen off above temporarily (I'd hate to use my hand, but it would work, I suppose).
Anyway, once it's charred, it'll then light with the spark wheel like any other lighter, except it doesn't burn with a flame, just a glowing ember. The Foxhole aspect is that a glowing ember is much harder for the enemy to see you lighting up a cigarette (no worse than the cigarette end itself) than an open flame. The windproof aspect means not only does the wind not put it out, but helps you out. This makes it ideal for outdoors, particularly on naval ships (less dangerous to have an ember than a flame around the ship and again, it tends to be windy on the ocean quite often, having no wind breakers anywhere around). Eventually, if not used regularly, it'll need charred again (seems to form a chemical oxidation layer over the rope or something as the IMCO wouldn't light a few weeks later without starting it once with a flame again).
I think it can use the Dunhill flints, but a regular flint works fine here given the manual spring operation. The end of the flint spring had no metal pusher end, but I have some leftover and added one myself. It all worked great after charring and clearing out the stuck flint that was in the tube with a drill bit.
Click for larger view/slideshow:
Continuing the Dunhill splurge.... (although I got this for a mere $35; sterling silver lighters usually cost significantly. My one lighter book shows it for about 3x that price with no mention of sterling silver, so I'm not certain they all came in Sterling silver, but every one I've seen so far is Sterling). Other sellers on eBay have it for $80-150+ so I think I got a deal.
This is of an extremely similar design to the IMCO Foxhole rope lighter I showed some pages back, except it's a Dunhill so of course they had to make it higher-end by using Sterling Silver, although gauging by how much I had to polish the rounded parts which were tarnished badly, I'm guessing only the center section is actually Sterling Silver as it had no tarnish whatsoever on that section. Even the ball on top needed polished.
In any case, the top of the rope wasn't charred, so I'm guessing this thing was never used. It didn't come with a box or extra rope like the IMCO did, but it's not like I'm going to use all that rope. I bet the extra rope I have fits this one too. I wouldn't be shocked if they were made in the same factory, even given the similarity in design and unusual USA manufacturing (Their service lighter was made in the USA in addition to Britain and Switzerland, I believe).
Regardless, it works the same way. You have to char the top of the rope with a flame before it'll work (so you'll need another lighter or a match or a candle or something to burn the top a bit until it's charred across evenly. You pull the bottom of the rope and it goes down into the lighter body with the ball top cutting off the oxygen to put out the burning ember (otherwise, it won't want to go out seeing as blowing on it or the wind blowing on it just makes it burn that much faster and brighter). I suppose if it broke, you could douse it in water or otherwise find a way to cut the oxygen off above temporarily (I'd hate to use my hand, but it would work, I suppose).
Anyway, once it's charred, it'll then light with the spark wheel like any other lighter, except it doesn't burn with a flame, just a glowing ember. The Foxhole aspect is that a glowing ember is much harder for the enemy to see you lighting up a cigarette (no worse than the cigarette end itself) than an open flame. The windproof aspect means not only does the wind not put it out, but helps you out. This makes it ideal for outdoors, particularly on naval ships (less dangerous to have an ember than a flame around the ship and again, it tends to be windy on the ocean quite often, having no wind breakers anywhere around). Eventually, if not used regularly, it'll need charred again (seems to form a chemical oxidation layer over the rope or something as the IMCO wouldn't light a few weeks later without starting it once with a flame again).
I think it can use the Dunhill flints, but a regular flint works fine here given the manual spring operation. The end of the flint spring had no metal pusher end, but I have some leftover and added one myself. It all worked great after charring and clearing out the stuck flint that was in the tube with a drill bit.
Click for larger view/slideshow:
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VonMagnum
Sr Member
Thorens Double Claw Semi-Automatic Pocket Lighter (1927-1945)
Well, here's a new lighter maker brand I've never used/repaired before....
I bought this from the same person I bought the Dunhill Squareboy from. Given it could be almost 100 years old, I thought I'd take a chance, but I might have overpaid given the quality. As you can see, there's some silver plating starting to come off. Worse yet, the lighter didn't remotely work and I've never worked on one before. It's in the 1953 manual I have, however and upon putting it back together with the spring in the correct position, the spring promptly snapped and broke the end off of it. Fortunately, there's replacement springs on eBay (Thorens is actually making a brand new version of this lighter for 2024, seemingly in China, of course and it's about the same price ($200) new what I paid for this one used, but of course this one is between 80-98 years old.
Anyway, I got the spring in ($18 shipped) and then had a good time trying to figure out exactly how to mount it with the weird piece it fits into. I finally figured it out and then hit the button to open it and it only moved part way. I loosened the rear screw/fulcrum pin and readjusted it and this time it opened and sparked, but then got caught. I adjusted the wheel a bit, bending to the right and all seems well now. The original manual for it says to use Thorens flints as they're harder for a courser spark wheel and that softer flints might jam the lid (maybe that's why it stuck until the flint rounded a bit?) Well, I don't know if they even make Thorens flints anymore (I looked; they do, but it says "soft flints" so who knows). Anyway, it seems to be working well now so I'll take it.
Next up, the wick was all but gone. So after I shoved it back all the way through after removing all the cotton packing, it's a very thick wick (no wonder I couldn't move it upward without tearing it). That's the largest wick size I have and there's no way I could get that through the opening without a pin or something to tug it. I settled on the next smaller size wick, which I managed to get in there (larger than an IMCO wick) and packed it full of cotton. Voila! It works.
You just push the button on the front and the lid flies open and lights the wick up all in an automatic manner (I guess the semi-automatic part is you have to manually lower the lid when you're done). You can screw the button in as a safety mechanism so it doesn't accidentally fly open and maybe light your pants on fire if there's enough oxygen down there (screwed down in 1st photo, opened in 3rd).
Click for larger view/slideshow:
Well, here's a new lighter maker brand I've never used/repaired before....
I bought this from the same person I bought the Dunhill Squareboy from. Given it could be almost 100 years old, I thought I'd take a chance, but I might have overpaid given the quality. As you can see, there's some silver plating starting to come off. Worse yet, the lighter didn't remotely work and I've never worked on one before. It's in the 1953 manual I have, however and upon putting it back together with the spring in the correct position, the spring promptly snapped and broke the end off of it. Fortunately, there's replacement springs on eBay (Thorens is actually making a brand new version of this lighter for 2024, seemingly in China, of course and it's about the same price ($200) new what I paid for this one used, but of course this one is between 80-98 years old.
Anyway, I got the spring in ($18 shipped) and then had a good time trying to figure out exactly how to mount it with the weird piece it fits into. I finally figured it out and then hit the button to open it and it only moved part way. I loosened the rear screw/fulcrum pin and readjusted it and this time it opened and sparked, but then got caught. I adjusted the wheel a bit, bending to the right and all seems well now. The original manual for it says to use Thorens flints as they're harder for a courser spark wheel and that softer flints might jam the lid (maybe that's why it stuck until the flint rounded a bit?) Well, I don't know if they even make Thorens flints anymore (I looked; they do, but it says "soft flints" so who knows). Anyway, it seems to be working well now so I'll take it.
Next up, the wick was all but gone. So after I shoved it back all the way through after removing all the cotton packing, it's a very thick wick (no wonder I couldn't move it upward without tearing it). That's the largest wick size I have and there's no way I could get that through the opening without a pin or something to tug it. I settled on the next smaller size wick, which I managed to get in there (larger than an IMCO wick) and packed it full of cotton. Voila! It works.
You just push the button on the front and the lid flies open and lights the wick up all in an automatic manner (I guess the semi-automatic part is you have to manually lower the lid when you're done). You can screw the button in as a safety mechanism so it doesn't accidentally fly open and maybe light your pants on fire if there's enough oxygen down there (screwed down in 1st photo, opened in 3rd).
Click for larger view/slideshow:
VonMagnum
Sr Member
I started posting on Facebook's vintage lighter group and hit Top Contributor badge in less than a week with 5 posts. I got over 90 likes just for a picture of my China cabinet filled with lighters. I see a lot of collectors. I don't think many repair or restore and they seem kind of random in what they collect.
I got my Dunhill Wheatsheaf lighter in today. The box was marked "received damaged." It looks like some Postal workers were playing football with the box. Fortunately, most of the box was to fit a slightly rumpled Dunhill repair manual in it. I rather wish the guy had used more bubble wrap around the lighter, but it looks undamaged. I didn't have time to play with it, though. I'll find out later tonight.
I got my Dunhill Wheatsheaf lighter in today. The box was marked "received damaged." It looks like some Postal workers were playing football with the box. Fortunately, most of the box was to fit a slightly rumpled Dunhill repair manual in it. I rather wish the guy had used more bubble wrap around the lighter, but it looks undamaged. I didn't have time to play with it, though. I'll find out later tonight.
VonMagnum
Sr Member
The Dunhill lighter from Australia said fully and recently serviced. It leaks like a sieve. It won't hold any gas at all. I'm pretty ticked.
I ordered a couple of replacement fill valves. They all seem to be made in China these days. I hope it's only the fill valve leaking. Seller, of course claims it was fine there.
I ordered a couple of replacement fill valves. They all seem to be made in China these days. I hope it's only the fill valve leaking. Seller, of course claims it was fine there.
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VonMagnum
Sr Member
It's very strange to me that put of the dozen or so lighters I've showcased on Facebook's Lighter group that the 1936 Berlin Olympics lighter (Zunder 1000 lighter with souvenir engraving) has gotten the most likes by a factor of two or more (over 200 in two days; the next closest being a picture of the China Cabinet and Thorens lighter above as an introduction with 97 after two weeks or so. I also got a few, "It's fake" claims on it with zero proof.
Fake used broken lighters from China? The fake ones are new condition and I've never seen a fake Zunder/MyFlam for sale, usually just ST Dupont and modern licensed Thorens and IMCO models (IMCO look different with IMCO usually written on the side). The Thorens ones are 100% real/licenses reproductions, just made in China now (they say Patent Switzerland, not made in Switzerland).
Most posts averaged 25-50 likes in a week's time (Blade Runner Colibri lighter by far garnering the least likes with like 11 total after a week). So I just think it's odd a lighter I thought might get dinged being from Nazi Germany is the most popular one of mine on there, beating my own personal favorite, the white enamel Ronson Cameo lighter.
I'm still waiting to get my money back from that scammer in Belgium and for parts to arrive from China to try and get that Dunhill Wheatsheaf lighter working.
Fake used broken lighters from China? The fake ones are new condition and I've never seen a fake Zunder/MyFlam for sale, usually just ST Dupont and modern licensed Thorens and IMCO models (IMCO look different with IMCO usually written on the side). The Thorens ones are 100% real/licenses reproductions, just made in China now (they say Patent Switzerland, not made in Switzerland).
Most posts averaged 25-50 likes in a week's time (Blade Runner Colibri lighter by far garnering the least likes with like 11 total after a week). So I just think it's odd a lighter I thought might get dinged being from Nazi Germany is the most popular one of mine on there, beating my own personal favorite, the white enamel Ronson Cameo lighter.
I'm still waiting to get my money back from that scammer in Belgium and for parts to arrive from China to try and get that Dunhill Wheatsheaf lighter working.
If it was me the Blade Runner Colibri wins the nod hands down but in the general public's mind WWII is an eternal attention hog. Remember when everyone would call the History Channel the Hitler Channel? That programming may be gone now but there's a reason they built their base using it.
VonMagnum
Sr Member
Thorens "Narrow Enamel" "Holy Grail" Lighter (2024)
It resembles the Ronson Rollalite style lighters in shaoe/style, but has very fancy artwork applied and it's brand new from Thorens in 2024. I think they're made in China, but they're licensed (many vintage reproductions and parts are available) and it's listed on the official Thorens site.
I couldn't resist this one as it closely resembles a Rollagas artwork version that usually sells for $500+. This was under $100 by comparison. It comes with a red replacement wick and several flints (one set installed already).
It's pretty sweet looking.
Click for slideshow/larger pictures:
Upright
It resembles the Ronson Rollalite style lighters in shaoe/style, but has very fancy artwork applied and it's brand new from Thorens in 2024. I think they're made in China, but they're licensed (many vintage reproductions and parts are available) and it's listed on the official Thorens site.
I couldn't resist this one as it closely resembles a Rollagas artwork version that usually sells for $500+. This was under $100 by comparison. It comes with a red replacement wick and several flints (one set installed already).
It's pretty sweet looking.
Click for slideshow/larger pictures:
Upright
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VonMagnum
Sr Member
I changed the fill valve on the Dunhill Wheatsheaf lighter and now it leaks out the gas control valve instead. There is no way on this earth that guy "serviced" that lighter. I removed the gas control valve and the o-ring looks good. I read that it's likely then it's the needle valve sitting just above it, but not simple to remove. I've been watching YT videos on changing the seals on the needle valve and it looks like a lot of work and you need custom tools (price keeps going up up up). I found a service that will supposedly change the o-rings and clean the lighter internally for $85. I'm wondering if that might just be the simpler route given I only have one lighter to do at the moment and frankly, I'd rather practice on a less rare one first.
VonMagnum
Sr Member
Ronson Superba Table Lighter (1929)
Difficult to find, even harder to find with the silver plating intact (I've been looking for years for a reasonable price for condition and only seen like three come up for sale), I got this one cheap because the flint spring head broke off. It said missing flint spring, but it's in there, it just broke and someone messed up the opening trying to fix it or whatever. It'll need a new screw top or something to hold it in place if I ever get it out. The ironic things is once I compressed the spring inside, it sparks and for now, the lighter works fine. Very odd. It's a shame because that's the best body condition I've seen in 5 years otherwise and the only one with the silver/chrome intact on top. You can see the Dunhill Wheatsheaf in the background.
Click for larger photos/slideshow:
Difficult to find, even harder to find with the silver plating intact (I've been looking for years for a reasonable price for condition and only seen like three come up for sale), I got this one cheap because the flint spring head broke off. It said missing flint spring, but it's in there, it just broke and someone messed up the opening trying to fix it or whatever. It'll need a new screw top or something to hold it in place if I ever get it out. The ironic things is once I compressed the spring inside, it sparks and for now, the lighter works fine. Very odd. It's a shame because that's the best body condition I've seen in 5 years otherwise and the only one with the silver/chrome intact on top. You can see the Dunhill Wheatsheaf in the background.
Click for larger photos/slideshow:
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VonMagnum
Sr Member
Zunder 1000 (1000 Sparks; It's made by Myflam) with Berlin Brandenburger Tor on the front (1930s)
I've had this one for awhile, but I forgot to photograph it for some reason (similar to the 1936 Olympic Lighter I did show with a slight difference on the part you twist to release/light it).
Click for larger picture/slideshow:
I've had this one for awhile, but I forgot to photograph it for some reason (similar to the 1936 Olympic Lighter I did show with a slight difference on the part you twist to release/light it).
Click for larger picture/slideshow:
VonMagnum
Sr Member
"Reserve Not Met" -That's one I've not seen in ages on eBay. Almost no seller pays for a reserve auction. They just bid up their own crap to their minimum acceptable amount. So this guy just cost himself a big charge and got nothing and he never will get anything because he lighter isn't worth that much.
The Buy it Now price was $300. I bid a maximum of $89 and I should have won it for $18). So $89 didn't even meet the reserve. I think it's worth maybe $150 maximum. I already own one (this one is just the opposite color combination or black and white) He clearly is delusional about its value. That wasted my time getting up for an joke auction.
I Iooked up the one I bought in 2023. I paid $72 for it. I see another that looks identical to mine. It's listed at $600! Crazy greedy people....
The Buy it Now price was $300. I bid a maximum of $89 and I should have won it for $18). So $89 didn't even meet the reserve. I think it's worth maybe $150 maximum. I already own one (this one is just the opposite color combination or black and white) He clearly is delusional about its value. That wasted my time getting up for an joke auction.
I Iooked up the one I bought in 2023. I paid $72 for it. I see another that looks identical to mine. It's listed at $600! Crazy greedy people....
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mm...$18 is reserve not met, if it never went over $18. If it never reached $89 selling price, then we don't actually know if that is over reserve price. If there's an offer allowed, you can offer $89 and maybe get it.
VonMagnum
Sr Member
I figured reserve auctions would go to the highest bid past the reserve. Besides, with a Buy It Now price of $300 it's clear they think it's worth its weight in gold.
VonMagnum
Sr Member
I don't understand why if my maximum bid is theoretically over the reserve it would screw me out of winning the auction. The reserve should be treated like a bid and if your max is over it, then it should go for the reserve price because it's impossible to actually bid $89 as eBay is an auto-bid system. You can only bid your maximum. That would screw the buyer and the seller over.
And yet, that is the way it is.
If you had a "friend" you could bid it up to $89 and possibly win it that way.
It requires TWO people bidding against each other.
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VonMagnum
Sr Member
I looked the Flight of Fancy up in the Ronson "Bible" (Urban Cummings book). It estimated $50-90 in 1994 so my guess of $100-150 was probably a pretty good guess. I got my other one for $72.
This one just came in today right before I left for work. The weird line looks like a crack that was glued over with a flash, but it's a swirl thing inside the plastic. No time to test (I've got two other New Yorkers, one black metal and one green/orange plastic (It's actually a 1920s invented plastic called Catalin, not Bakelite as my book implied (Bakelite was invented in like 1907 and it's typically brown or black). Bakelite tends to dry out and becomes brittle over time, but this stuff is still suppel after 96 years).
This one just came in today right before I left for work. The weird line looks like a crack that was glued over with a flash, but it's a swirl thing inside the plastic. No time to test (I've got two other New Yorkers, one black metal and one green/orange plastic (It's actually a 1920s invented plastic called Catalin, not Bakelite as my book implied (Bakelite was invented in like 1907 and it's typically brown or black). Bakelite tends to dry out and becomes brittle over time, but this stuff is still suppel after 96 years).
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