Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (Hinges explained P4)
- Thread starter Leander
- Start date
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV
But I am glad I got myself going again, thanks to you and some other great buidlers out there for the inspiration
Thanks, I know the faceplate needs some more work.
But I am glad I got myself going again, thanks to you and some other great buidlers out there for the inspiration
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV
and here is 1 eye lit, did connect it fast to see the result.. 1 LED (middle) isn't working for some reason.
The glow is pretty good.. but I hope to get it better. for some reason it looks a lot brighter in the picture.
and I have to do something about the 2 hotspots I can see from the leds. maybe an extra layer of semi-transparent plastic or somthing like that.. any ideas?
this is what I mean:
and here is 1 eye lit, did connect it fast to see the result.. 1 LED (middle) isn't working for some reason.
The glow is pretty good.. but I hope to get it better. for some reason it looks a lot brighter in the picture.
and I have to do something about the 2 hotspots I can see from the leds. maybe an extra layer of semi-transparent plastic or somthing like that.. any ideas?
this is what I mean:
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV
I found my problem for the brightness
I am using
got a 6V battery
U LED = 3.2V
I LED = 20 mA
120 Ohm resistor.
And I wanted 3 in series.
But I calculated the resistor for a 12V Battery pack (my old one)
so I guess I need a new 12V Battery pack to test my LED's and the shops are closed
so with the new batterypack they should be brighter and hopefully less brightspots (and all 3 should work now)
I found my problem for the brightness
I am using
got a 6V battery
U LED = 3.2V
I LED = 20 mA
120 Ohm resistor.
And I wanted 3 in series.
But I calculated the resistor for a 12V Battery pack (my old one)
so I guess I need a new 12V Battery pack to test my LED's and the shops are closed
so with the new batterypack they should be brighter and hopefully less brightspots (and all 3 should work now)
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV
Question:
I've got a basic knowledge of electronics but there is one thing I never figured out.
I am going to get a new battery pack off ebay.. for my electronics at the moment I need a 12V battery pack. something like this
but I never figured out how much mAh I need..
I am planning to attach the Helmet lights and Servo's to this battery pack, maybe the Unibeam aswell (but it'll probablt have it's own power supply)
what does the mAh means and how much should I get?
Question:
I've got a basic knowledge of electronics but there is one thing I never figured out.
I am going to get a new battery pack off ebay.. for my electronics at the moment I need a 12V battery pack. something like this
but I never figured out how much mAh I need..
I am planning to attach the Helmet lights and Servo's to this battery pack, maybe the Unibeam aswell (but it'll probablt have it's own power supply)
what does the mAh means and how much should I get?
nadeem1baksh
New Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
cool i like this build
cool i like this build
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
Thanks a lot!
looking forward to that. I am struggling with my electronics, been a long time since I used all the formula's for Current, Volt, Resistance etc.
Maybe I can learn from your idea's
Thanks a lot!
G* want you make las vegas in your helmet ?
looking forward to that. I am struggling with my electronics, been a long time since I used all the formula's for Current, Volt, Resistance etc.
Maybe I can learn from your idea's
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
hey leander, if you go into most regular electronic stores they can help you out (dunno were you live in nl) but we got a store in sittard its called "de regenboog" if you go there there is a big chance they can help you make it.
i usually go there for all my electronic stuff.
once i get my helmet done (I'm making warmachine atm) i'm gonna go by there to get most of the stuff for my electronics aswell.
by the way i found out about some LED's some electronic stores sell are called "bright leds" these are really great for using on the unibeam
hey leander, if you go into most regular electronic stores they can help you out (dunno were you live in nl) but we got a store in sittard its called "de regenboog" if you go there there is a big chance they can help you make it.
i usually go there for all my electronic stuff.
once i get my helmet done (I'm making warmachine atm) i'm gonna go by there to get most of the stuff for my electronics aswell.
by the way i found out about some LED's some electronic stores sell are called "bright leds" these are really great for using on the unibeam
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
Thanks, I should do that.
I am using these LED's at the moment:
Conrad LED
these are not the brightest out there but the reflection angle (reflectiehoek) is wider then the brighter LED's
*edit* fixed huge link
hey leander, if you go into most regular electronic stores they can help you out (dunno were you live in nl) but we got a store in sittard its called "de regenboog" if you go there there is a big chance they can help you make it.
i usually go there for all my electronic stuff.
once i get my helmet done (I'm making warmachine atm) i'm gonna go by there to get most of the stuff for my electronics aswell.
by the way i found out about some LED's some electronic stores sell are called "bright leds" these are really great for using on the unibeam
Thanks, I should do that.
I am using these LED's at the moment:
Conrad LED
these are not the brightest out there but the reflection angle (reflectiehoek) is wider then the brighter LED's
*edit* fixed huge link
Last edited:
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
Your link to Conrad is not working, I get an error message.
I'm also thinking of making a complete Iron Man and Warmachine suit, so it's good to see other dutch people are working on this too. I don't know if it's allowed to type in an other language on the boards, but the problem with the amount of mAh you will need is actually quite simple (if I'm not mistaken), but I can tell it much easier in Dutch than in English, so PM me if you still need some info on that.
Your link to Conrad is not working, I get an error message.
I'm also thinking of making a complete Iron Man and Warmachine suit, so it's good to see other dutch people are working on this too. I don't know if it's allowed to type in an other language on the boards, but the problem with the amount of mAh you will need is actually quite simple (if I'm not mistaken), but I can tell it much easier in Dutch than in English, so PM me if you still need some info on that.
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
indeed the link is not working search for product 180755 and you should find it.
and I think I fixed it now
PM sent
indeed the link is not working search for product 180755 and you should find it.
and I think I fixed it now
PM sent
Last edited:
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (Hinge explained P4-5)
Lot's of people struggle with a hinge system.
I will apply some basic mechanical engineering to explain how to predict movement and how to make your hing system.
If you use this please give me some credit in your thread, a link mine would be nice
I can not give you one hinge system that will work for all helmets. this is just the basic theory of how to design one yourself.
you need 1 picture with the helmet open in the position you want it to be when it's open. a straight sideview.
print this picture twice. cut from one picture the faceplate out and lay it on top of your helmet in a closed position. (I've photoshopped this since I don't have a printer here.)
I've also added the pivots in the faceplate. red for the open faceplate, blue for the closed one (make sure they are on the same spot of the faceplate) the position doesn't relly matter and you can play with this, it might make your 4-link-system hinges show more or hide more from the side.
Lot's of people struggle with a hinge system.
I will apply some basic mechanical engineering to explain how to predict movement and how to make your hing system.
If you use this please give me some credit in your thread, a link mine would be nice I can not give you one hinge system that will work for all helmets. this is just the basic theory of how to design one yourself.
you need 1 picture with the helmet open in the position you want it to be when it's open. a straight sideview.
print this picture twice. cut from one picture the faceplate out and lay it on top of your helmet in a closed position. (I've photoshopped this since I don't have a printer here.)
I've also added the pivots in the faceplate. red for the open faceplate, blue for the closed one (make sure they are on the same spot of the faceplate) the position doesn't relly matter and you can play with this, it might make your 4-link-system hinges show more or hide more from the side.
Last edited:
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
Okay we got our faceplate positions and the pivots, how do we turn this into a 4-link-mechanism?
first we draw a straight line from a pivot on the open faceplate to the same pivot on the closed one.
we repeat this for the other pivot.
Like this:
now we draw a perpendicular line exactly halfway on the line.
and repeat this for the other one.
now you choose 1 faceplate (it will work for both)
an draw your hinges from Pivot 1 to the perpendicular line.
any place on that line will work, and this is where you design it yourself and might have to play around a bit.
I've made 4 hinges before it fit perfectly and moved the way I wanted.
same goes for Pivot 2
and you can join these lines with eachother (yellow lines) but this is not needed if the pivots are attached to your helmet.
Okay we got our faceplate positions and the pivots, how do we turn this into a 4-link-mechanism?
first we draw a straight line from a pivot on the open faceplate to the same pivot on the closed one.
we repeat this for the other pivot.
Like this:
now we draw a perpendicular line exactly halfway on the line.
and repeat this for the other one.
now you choose 1 faceplate (it will work for both)
an draw your hinges from Pivot 1 to the perpendicular line.
any place on that line will work, and this is where you design it yourself and might have to play around a bit.
I've made 4 hinges before it fit perfectly and moved the way I wanted.
same goes for Pivot 2
and you can join these lines with eachother (yellow lines) but this is not needed if the pivots are attached to your helmet.
Last edited:
Leander
Active Member
Re: Leander's - Iron Man Mark IV (battery question P4)
Finetuning the hinges.
by looking at the previous picture you might have noticed that you can see the top yellow hing sticking out..
and the left orange hinge wont move past the top of the helmet..
(shown as the red line on the next picture)
you can finetune this to make it work better.
as long as you DON'T move the pivot points.
Here I put a small bend in 1 orange and 1 yellow hinge.
the Orange one can move around the helmet now,
the yellow one is hidden behind the faceplate.
this is how I finetuned my pivot in the example
one of my old hinges looked like this..
I've attached this to my helmet and it didn't work perfectly as I want it to be but once it fits I will remove the yellow (in the sketch) hinges.
Finetuning the hinges.
by looking at the previous picture you might have noticed that you can see the top yellow hing sticking out..
and the left orange hinge wont move past the top of the helmet..
(shown as the red line on the next picture)
you can finetune this to make it work better.
as long as you DON'T move the pivot points.
Here I put a small bend in 1 orange and 1 yellow hinge.
the Orange one can move around the helmet now,
the yellow one is hidden behind the faceplate.
this is how I finetuned my pivot in the example
one of my old hinges looked like this..
I've attached this to my helmet and it didn't work perfectly as I want it to be but once it fits I will remove the yellow (in the sketch) hinges.
Last edited:
ugameenough
Active Member
this is some seriously dope s@#t! good work my friend...
PepIronman
Member
Is it finished yet? The updates just ceased....
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