Latex "problems"

The only purpose and function of pros-aide is to give the paint something to stick to, like a primer coat  Paint won't stick directly to latex, but will stick to pros-aide.  Pros-aide will stick to latex, meaning you now have a "sticky" surface for the paint to stick to.  Pros-aide will not affect the properties of the paint (make it more "flexible").  Nothing will do that.  Any type of paint that dries hard or stiff will crack when flexed... no matter what you do to it.  An acrylic ink is just that... ink.  It's not paint (http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759251 see post #4).  I certainly do not know or understand the chemistry behind it all, but I know that it works.  There are basically 4 ways (that I know of, more I'm sure) to apply color to RD-407...

- Apply pros-aide to the raw latex, then apply the color on that.  (works because pros-aide sticks to latex, and inks/dyes stick to pros-aide)

- The PAX method

- Mix a pigment with RD-407, thin it to a workable consistency, and apply it to the raw latex.  (works because latex sticks to latex)

- Add oil based paints to thinned down (with naphtha) rubber cement and apply to the raw latex.  (works because rubber cement sticks to latex)

Of the 3, the oil based paint and thinned rubber cement are probably the most durable because of the type of bond you get between the latex and rubber cement.  I've never tried it, but have seen examples, and if it wasn't so toxic I would probably go that route.  I'm not interested in all the mixing and thinning involved with using RD-407 as a base for pigment, so I use the pros-aide/ink method.  I can tell you I am 100% certain the cheap acrylic paint will not last, I tried every way I could think of to make it work and failed miserably every time.  You can certainly mix your pros-aide in with your paint, but it has to be a type of paint or ink that remains flexible.  I am no expert here, and I would love to hear from some others, because I am always down to learn more and be corrected if I'm wrong (which happens more often than I like to think lol).

Brian
 
so with the first option: Apply pros-aide to the raw latex, then apply the color on that.  (works because pros-aide sticks to latex, and inks/dyes stick to pros-aide)
would i go on doing that by airbrushing colored inks to the prosaide after i apply it? am i just buying the colors i need in ink not paint? since ink sticks to prosaide, i am going to apply ink to the suit after prosaide is put on? i could try the PAX method...

-Ian
 
Okay, let me see if I can explain this a different way.  Apply the pros-aide as the first coat.  After the pros-aide you base coat with whatever you're using to paint the mask (ink, paint, whatever).  Once the pros-aide is covered with your base color coat you paint as you normally would.  In other words, once you cover the pros-aide with your base coat of paint you paint right on top of it, because ink will stick to ink (or paint to paint, or whatever you choose to use).  I'm not really sure how else to describe the process.  PAX works because you are tinting the pros-aide with pigment (in this case acrylic paint).  Pros-aide stays flexible so there's no problems with chipping.  Remember though, you are painting with tinted pros-aide.  Same idea as the rubber cement method.  The tinted pros-aide sticks to the latex.  If you choose the PAX method, you're gonna need allot of pros-aide (each new color and layer will require you to mix more pros-aide and paint).  Like I said before, the choice is yours, I am certainly not telling you this is the only right way to do it.  I'm telling you what worked and didn't work for me.  If you're going to paint with acrylic paint, at least invest in some quality paint... that cheap craft acrylic you get at Hobby Lobby or Walmart is junk.  Up to you...

Brian
 
Wonko Your a saint !!! and yes wonko is right this also might help that type of paint has enamal in it and it does NOT flex NO matter what . It cracks and peels off of latex . There is pleanty of guys on youtube showing how to airbrush and exactly what they used and where they get it . you seem like a visual person so get on there and search for ( airbrushing a latex monster mask ) pop up just trying to get you on a solid path of understanding how this is done before you get pissed and throw it in the trash good luck and keep us informed of what you do.   
 
I just finished my white base coat. It took some layers to get to it, since I used a black suit to build on. I started with the Pros Aide, and basicly painted my whole suit with it. To avoid brush strokes I lightly dabbed the surface with a sponge. When dry but tacky I did my first layer of white FW Ink, thinned with some Isopropanol. As mentioned in my own thread, the ink on the first area to get airbrushed cracked a bit, and had to be re-done... well, live and learn... Dont spray on to much and make sure the Pros Aide covers every area of the suit! Thin layers is the way to go and now I have a really nice white base coat. 
For a first suit I think this is the way to go. I thought about doing Pax, but that would require way to much Pros Aide, anf that is really... REALLY expensive to get hold of here in Sweden. So FW ink it is, and they should not be that hard to get a hold on. You can get a 180 ml bottle and that will really suffice for the base coat. For the rest of the colors... well, I guess this is the most expensive part of the whole suit and you will go through a lot of bottles, but FW inks are really nice to work with and flows nicly through the airbrush, so I think it's worth it. 
 
If you get your base coat the color you want, it really shouldn't take that much ink.  I went through 3 smaller bottles of white, 2 iron oxide with some left over, and less than 1 bottle of the other colors I used,  Honestly, I have less than $50.00 in inks, with plenty to do another paint up.  I mix all my inks 50/50 with 99% isopropyl, but I've heard 91% works too.

Brian
 
Ok thank you! There is a blick art store maybe a 45 minute drive from my house, i was thinking about 3 bottles of each color, im buying an airbrush tonight and clay, latex soon, and about that isopropyl, is that something needed or just preferred?

-Ian
 
Well, you can spray it neat, but you'll have to do real light coats with it to keep it from cracking (see what ulrikhedin was talking about in post #65).  The inks will go allot farther if you thin it as well.

Brian
 
Yeah i heard about that, I'll just have my airbrush on low, I noticed a lot onpeiple do a white base coat, is that something I should probably do too?
I have prosaide, all I need is the ink and air Brush correct?

-Ian
 
I am just about to go buy a lot of inks and an airbrush! going to start it today! I have prosaide, inks, airbrush, and sponges. Thats all i need right? sponge to apply prosaide, air brush and the inks?

-Ian
 
I have all my things ready to go!:)
image.jpg


-Ian
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Today in a rather short while, I accomplished this with just some yellow and antelope brown. I think it is a good start, so yes, I think you are good to go. Also, if you mess up, just clean or paint over. It took a while to figure out how to get the result I was looking for since I am a n00b with the airbrush. Just have fun with it and you will find out how it works. About the isopropyl, you should definetly use it. I don't know where to get in the states, I get mine at an electronics shop here in Sweden. It is used to clean circuit boards... you could probably google it.
I could probably have saved a lot of ink by not doing the base coat in white, but should have mixed in the yellow from the start.

Have fun and good luck!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I started to apply ink. I used flesh tint, next will be antelope brown then black. My airbrush can't continue right now because I don't have anything for air lol, but I'm liking how it's turning out!

-Ian
 
Great. Please post a picture! Also, you should invest in an air compressor. I dont know about air cans in the states, but in Sweden for the price of 4-5 cans you have a decent compressor, even less is used.
 
my suit is now done! Thank you everyone who helped me!:) I am very happy with how it looks and all I need to finish is my mask!:) here are some pictures of my suit
image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg


-Ian
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This thread is more than 10 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

B
Predator dreads Latex
Replies
3
Views
1,486
Shoguno
Shoguno
Dobdanyt
Hot glue and liquid latex
Replies
1
Views
1,812
GenNoriega
GenNoriega
Dobdanyt
Latex amount
Replies
1
Views
755
Shoguno
Shoguno
Alex Burrell
Healing latex
Replies
1
Views
936
LunaticNic
LunaticNic
Fayne
urecoat skin? possible latex alternative for latex allergy sufferers. man I hope so.
Replies
2
Views
1,298
Fayne
Fayne
Back
Top