Large Star Destroyer Model Kits?

[MattWinchell]

I've looked at the Bandai 1/5000 and Zvezda 1/2700 model kits. The latter seems like the most likely candidate for me to buy & assemble, but I was wondering if there is an accurate star destroyer model kit that is a bit larger but maintains affordability.

Ideally, I'd like a large enough model to shoot miniature special effects using my recreation of John Knoll's motion-controlled camera & miniature rigs.

Thanks for your time,
Matthew

 

[INVAR]

For accuracy - the 1/5000 Bandai is balls on dead accurate at scale, the only issue is the bow warping which soured me on the final I did.

For size - the Zvezda 1/2700 is the best option for the price, but to accurize it - prepare to spend a lot of time and effort to try and approximate the ILM models.

Or - you can obtain a Randy Cooper kit.

 

[MattWinchell]

For accuracy - the 1/5000 Bandai is balls on dead accurate at scale, the only issue is the bow warping which soured me on the final I did.

For size - the Zvezda 1/2700 is the best option for the price, but to accurize it - prepare to spend a lot of time and effort to try and approximate the ILM models.

Or - you can obtain a Randy Cooper kit.

Gotcha. For the Zvezda kit, I've heard that you can buy custom resin replacements for certain sections like the shield generators and such. What seller would you recommend for the most accurate replacement parts?

Also, is it me or is the trench between the top and bottom hull of the Zvezda model kit thinner than the actual model? If so, is there a practical modification to widen it?

Zvezda

The Avenger

 

[jusdrewit]

I'm no expert, but I believe you are correct, I've read many times that the Zvezda side wall trench is too narrow, and the wedding cake superstructure on the Zvezda is too squished as well. Bandai's 1/5000 is dead accurate as Invar stated. If only Bandai could release a larger one!

 

[StevenBills]

Could you imagine a 1/2500 Bandai SD?

 

[MattWinchell]

Could you imagine a 1/2500 Bandai SD?

I NEED IT

 

[MattWinchell]

For accuracy - the 1/5000 Bandai is balls on dead accurate at scale, the only issue is the bow warping which soured me on the final I did.

For size - the Zvezda 1/2700 is the best option for the price, but to accurize it - prepare to spend a lot of time and effort to try and approximate the ILM models.

Or - you can obtain a Randy Cooper kit.

Also not to ask too many questions, as I just finished looking through your whole Zvezda WIP thread, where do you get your styrene and of what shapes & sizes do you typically purchase?

 

[JediMichael]

The Randy cooper star destroyer would be so awesome to have, but at 42" and nearly $800.........yeah......

 

[INVAR]

Gotcha. For the Zvezda kit, I've heard that you can buy custom resin replacements for certain sections like the shield generators and such. What seller would you recommend for the most accurate replacement parts?

308 Bits at Shapeways has 1/2700 3D resin parts that many builders have used with great success. I also used Falcon 3Ds upgrade parts for the radar domes, engine bells and Hyperdrive engines and the garbage chute etc.

Also, is it me or is the trench between the top and bottom hull of the Zvezda model kit thinner than the actual model? If so, is there a practical modification to widen it?

It is too thin. Part of the reason is due to the use of a digital model element from Rogue One on their ISD -I class, which for some reason, the retail specs have the side trenches far too thin, as much as the old MPC kit's side trenches were too tall. I ended up manually increasing the trench height by 3.2MM or 1/8" but that caused some other serious issues - specifically with the engine block and the top and bottom hull fitting. My build thread showcases what I had to do to deal with that.

Also not to ask too many questions, as I just finished looking through your whole Zvezda WIP thread, where do you get your styrene and of what shapes & sizes do you typically purchase?

I got a whole bunch of Plastruct and Evergreen styrene rods, tubes in myriad sizes and widths about 4 years ago when the prices were somewhat affordable and you could actually obtain them at model shops online. That was back when I was in furious greeblie build mode. Nowadays getting styrene is almost as difficult as finding and getting lumber and 4x8 sheets of plywood at a price that will not break you.

Currently I am at the detailing and panel line stage of the hulls. Sometime hopefully within the next month or two I will do a final light and electrical test before cementing the hulls together and putting the bridge and top lid on the build. I know I have some light leaks from the engine bell fittings that I recently affixed and I am thinking about how I am going to deal with that problem.

Seeing the light at the end of the longest build I have ever done. A little bit at a time so the tedium does not wear me out.

 

[MattWinchell]

308 Bits at Shapeways has 1/2700 3D resin parts that many builders have used with great success. I also used Falcon 3Ds upgrade parts for the radar domes, engine bells and Hyperdrive engines and the garbage chute etc.



It is too thin. Part of the reason is due to the use of a digital model element from Rogue One on their ISD -I class, which for some reason, the retail specs have the side trenches far too thin, as much as the old MPC kit's side trenches were too tall. I ended up manually increasing the trench height by 3.2MM or 1/8" but that caused some other serious issues - specifically with the engine block and the top and bottom hull fitting. My build thread showcases what I had to do to deal with that.

I got a whole bunch of Plastruct and Evergreen styrene rods, tubes in myriad sizes and widths about 4 years ago when the prices were somewhat affordable and you could actually obtain them at model shops online. That was back when I was in furious greeblie build mode. Nowadays getting styrene is almost as difficult as finding and getting lumber and 4x8 sheets of plywood at a price that will not break you.

Currently I am at the detailing and panel line stage of the hulls. Sometime hopefully within the next month or two I will do a final light and electrical test before cementing the hulls together and putting the bridge and top lid on the build. I know I have some light leaks from the engine bell fittings that I recently affixed and I am thinking about how I am going to deal with that problem.

Seeing the light at the end of the longest build I have ever done. A little bit at a time so the tedium does not wear me out.

Thank you so much for the information!

I went ahead and bought Falcon 3D's upgrade parts. They were far cheaper to get on his direct site than Shapeways so I did that instead.

I can't wait to get into the project. I know that these things take a long time (probably going to be multiple years for me as well), but I am totally comfortable with that. Also, this will be my first introduction to styrene, which is arguably one of the most important skills I need to get a career in film special effects doing animatronics like creatures and droids, props/models & practical effects like motion-controlled rigs.

Also, going back to the trench again, I looked again at your mentionings of it on the main thread, but it seems on those posts you indicated you raised it by 1.5mm. Did I miss a later post clarifying you modified it to 3.2mm?

Thanks for your time!
-Matthew

 

[INVAR]

Also, going back to the trench again, I looked again at your mentionings of it on the main thread, but it seems on those posts you indicated you raised it by 1.5mm. Did I miss a later post clarifying you modified it to 3.2mm?

-Matthew

My bad. When replying I grabbed the wrong pack of rods which were square tubes at 3.2mm, not the 1.5 mm square rods I used to raise the trench height. My memory is not the greatest anymore and I had to look to see what the size was and grabbed the wrong pack. Sorry.

 

[MattWinchell]

My bad. When replying I grabbed the wrong pack of rods which were square tubes at 3.2mm, not the 1.5 mm square rods I used to raise the trench height. My memory is not the greatest anymore and I had to look to see what the size was and grabbed the wrong pack. Sorry

No worries! I appreciate the clarification.
-Matthew

 

[Guns Akimbo]

If you want styrene sheets you can hack and slice to your heart's content for cheap, consider the plastic "FOR SALE" signs and the like that you often see at hardware and big box stores.

 

[Sluis Van Shipyards]

For accuracy - the 1/5000 Bandai is balls on dead accurate at scale, the only issue is the bow warping which soured me on the final I did.

For size - the Zvezda 1/2700 is the best option for the price, but to accurize it - prepare to spend a lot of time and effort to try and approximate the ILM models.

Or - you can obtain a Randy Cooper kit.

I seem to recall someone saying that the issue with the Bandai SD was improper construction, like if you don't put some part a specific way it will warp it.

 

[TazMan2000]

It would be neat if someone could design a large and accurate frame of a SD in 3D( Studio scale and smaller), so that people could print it out. It could then be layered with styrene to cover the superstructure. The skin possibly could be designed as well, however I'm not sure if the panel lines would come out ok.

TazMan2000

 

[INVAR]

I seem to recall someone saying that the issue with the Bandai SD was improper construction, like if you don't put some part a specific way it will warp it.

I messed with it a ton of ways til Sunday - took it apart, reassembled it, shaved and cut out pegs that made the warp worse - and ultimately - if I kept the shrouds and lighting kit installed - there was no way I could figure out how to prevent it. I know of some folks who had great builds and did not have the same issue. Others, far more proficient than I - had the same wrestling match with the kit and nothing they could do could fix the warp.

I think the final agreement was that if you bought the kit - it was better not to get the limited first edition with lighting (which is what I bought and built) and get the standard version and do your own led and fiber lighting WITHOUT using the light shrouds.

 

[jusdrewit]

I seem to recall someone saying that the issue with the Bandai SD was improper construction, like if you don't put some part a specific way it will warp it.

Having built one, I think its actually the opposite, building it the proper way to the letter will cause warping (in the bow at least). One of the few engineering errors from Bandai. I had to do some mods internally to prevent that

 

[MattWinchell]

I messed with it a ton of ways til Sunday - took it apart, reassembled it, shaved and cut out pegs that made the warp worse - and ultimately - if I kept the shrouds and lighting kit installed - there was no way I could figure out how to prevent it. I know of some folks who had great builds and did not have the same issue. Others, far more proficient than I - had the same wrestling match with the kit and nothing they could do could fix the warp.

I think the final agreement was that if you bought the kit - it was better not to get the limited first edition with lighting (which is what I bought and built) and get the standard version and do your own led and fiber lighting WITHOUT using the light shrouds.

Out of curiosity, do you have a folder of all the reference images you have for the ISD-II if you're willing to share? Like you, I want to recreate the Avenger.