Judge Dread , Judge Death armour build
- Thread starter CatfoodRob
- Start date
Dr Feeley Good
Active Member
looking great.............
the DOCTOR
Sr Member
Brilliant! Will either costume be debuting at the Sci-Fi Weekender?
CatfoodRob
Sr Member
Both helmets (Dredd and Death) and shoulder armour will be on the "Galactic Knights" prop display table at the Sci-Fi Weekender. No costumes though as time has run out .
My Daleks and Dr Who b.f.g`s will be on the "our dr who monsters" display .
Should be an excelent event .
Rupert_Angier
Sr Member
This thread and build are awesome and inspiring.
Love the work on Death. If I was 100 pounds lighter...
CatfoodRob
Sr Member
Today I painted the helmet .
First , once I was satisfied with the filler (bondo) over the fiberglass shell , I finished sanding with 240 grit paper . Its never good to sand the filler with too fine grit as the primer needs something to grip on to . It (and subsequent topcoats) may flake off if the bondo is tooo smoooth.
Several coats of thick primer were applied , and when dry the primer was sanded flat with 1200 paper , a tad too fine really , but all I had .
Next the lower edge of the bucket was painted with a silver grey shade .
Once the silver was dry it was sanded with 1200 wet ., the lower stripe was then blocked out in masking tape, I found that one strip of tape gave me the width I wanted .
Next some fine lining tape was added to give the actual edge of the stripe.
Then more masking tape was applied to completely cover the lower silver stripe area.
Next a coat of black was applied to the whole lid .
Once this was dry , but not set rock hard , the tape was removed
Thus I had my pattern .
Nextthe black was hit with 1200 paper (wet) to give it a key , and to slightly flat down the paint ridge where the masking tape edge had been .
The key was for the clear coat . Three coats of laquer were applied "wer on wet" this means each coat was applied before the previous one was fully dry .
If you apply the next coat when the previous is too wet , you will get runs , so you need to leave each coat around ten minutes to semi dry .
Here it is with laquer applied .
Once the laquer is VERY dry , a couple of days maybe, I will flat the whole lot with 2000 grit wet paper to smooth out any irregulatities etc , then it will be polished to a glass like sheen with cutting conpounds on an electric buffer.
Phew...a long day painting !!!
I bought this full sized resin skull at a garden center , and will use it as a stand for the death helmet for next weekends show, as I wont get time to build a "judge death " likeness for it . A bit of a cop out , but the clocks ticking .....
First , once I was satisfied with the filler (bondo) over the fiberglass shell , I finished sanding with 240 grit paper . Its never good to sand the filler with too fine grit as the primer needs something to grip on to . It (and subsequent topcoats) may flake off if the bondo is tooo smoooth.
Several coats of thick primer were applied , and when dry the primer was sanded flat with 1200 paper , a tad too fine really , but all I had .
Next the lower edge of the bucket was painted with a silver grey shade .
Once the silver was dry it was sanded with 1200 wet ., the lower stripe was then blocked out in masking tape, I found that one strip of tape gave me the width I wanted .
Next some fine lining tape was added to give the actual edge of the stripe.
Then more masking tape was applied to completely cover the lower silver stripe area.
Next a coat of black was applied to the whole lid .
Once this was dry , but not set rock hard , the tape was removed
Thus I had my pattern .
Nextthe black was hit with 1200 paper (wet) to give it a key , and to slightly flat down the paint ridge where the masking tape edge had been .
The key was for the clear coat . Three coats of laquer were applied "wer on wet" this means each coat was applied before the previous one was fully dry .
If you apply the next coat when the previous is too wet , you will get runs , so you need to leave each coat around ten minutes to semi dry .
Here it is with laquer applied .
Once the laquer is VERY dry , a couple of days maybe, I will flat the whole lot with 2000 grit wet paper to smooth out any irregulatities etc , then it will be polished to a glass like sheen with cutting conpounds on an electric buffer.
Phew...a long day painting !!!
I bought this full sized resin skull at a garden center , and will use it as a stand for the death helmet for next weekends show, as I wont get time to build a "judge death " likeness for it . A bit of a cop out , but the clocks ticking .....
Last edited:
CatfoodRob
Sr Member
The above painting techniques apply to any kind of paint . I guess most people use automotive aerosols, and they follow my above post exactly
CatfoodRob
Sr Member
The Portcullis ....
I started with two pieces of 6mm foamex that used to be a garage wall sign (Shell Oils is on the reverse side ! ) I cut two lengths 20mm wide and put them in the oven untill soft , then I wrapped them quickly around the helmet front and allowed them to cool , and set to the shape of the helmet .
I temporarily glued some pieces of cardboard to the two pieces to give me the correct alignment and positions.
Then I cut the smaller pointed pieces out of a piece of 3mm foamex ( a sample piece I blagged off a local supplier)
These I superglued in place one at a time
Once twelve pieces were glued in place , the portcullis was built ..it all came together very quickly . I decided to use upholstery tacks for the rivets , I had to cut their nail down to size with a pair of sidecutter pliers . Then I drilled a small hole in each position , and superglued the tacks into the foamex.
I brush painted the portcullis with Games Workshop (Citadel) "boltgun silver" which is a dark silver , slightly darker than my helmet stripe .
So heres the finished portcullis
Although teh helmet isnt finish polished , I fitted the portcullis with a couple of pieces of masking tape just to see how it looked .
Its soooo nearly finished ...cant wait !!!! :lol
I started with two pieces of 6mm foamex that used to be a garage wall sign (Shell Oils is on the reverse side ! ) I cut two lengths 20mm wide and put them in the oven untill soft , then I wrapped them quickly around the helmet front and allowed them to cool , and set to the shape of the helmet .
I temporarily glued some pieces of cardboard to the two pieces to give me the correct alignment and positions.
Then I cut the smaller pointed pieces out of a piece of 3mm foamex ( a sample piece I blagged off a local supplier)
These I superglued in place one at a time
Once twelve pieces were glued in place , the portcullis was built ..it all came together very quickly . I decided to use upholstery tacks for the rivets , I had to cut their nail down to size with a pair of sidecutter pliers . Then I drilled a small hole in each position , and superglued the tacks into the foamex.
I brush painted the portcullis with Games Workshop (Citadel) "boltgun silver" which is a dark silver , slightly darker than my helmet stripe .
So heres the finished portcullis
Although teh helmet isnt finish polished , I fitted the portcullis with a couple of pieces of masking tape just to see how it looked .
Its soooo nearly finished ...cant wait !!!! :lol
Dr Feeley Good
Active Member
Looking really good...
baron von blondle
Sr Member
AWESOME!!!
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