Jedi Comlink found parts

roygilsing Got my comm today. She looks great! Number 36 out of 50.

One of the chrome posts on the back came loose in shipping, but I epoxied it back in no problem. However, it does make me wonder about the metal "button" on the back that's used to attach it to the stand. Is that surface mounted or is there a post steated into the body of the comm?
 
Hi AnubisGuard ,
Yes, we did worry that during shipping some parts were vulnerable because of temperature differences. I'm glad to hear you managed to fix it. I'm sorry for the poor experience it gave.
The knob where the magnet goes was secured better. At least, we double checked them on all props. And they do indeed have a post going inside the body, so it should be good.

I hope you otherwise like the prop.

Please let me know if you have any questions or issues.

Best regards,
Roy
 
Question. I have the Lowland Comlink replica. Is the razor part cast resin or the actual razor? I ask because the description says an original donor part was used. Not 100% clear what that actually means. Resin cast off a real vintage Gillette razor or an actual razor was used?

I'm assuming the original is cast off the actual razor?
 
Hi,
Yes, that's right. An original razor was used for the master and our replicas were cast from that. The main reason we are convinced that the real prop was a resin cast as well, is that the opening in the bottom for the pcb is so big, that very little material is left and in a real razor that wouldn't be possible. Another reason is that the two types of material on the razor would be very hard to finish without showing on the prop. I hope this is clear?
Here are a few images from the WIP.

Cheers,
Roy


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62B5BF71-30FD-42F9-8636-0A6A1B4E91BB.jpeg
 
Another reason is that the two types of material on the razor would be very hard to finish without showing on the prop.

Isn't that the truth. I tried to convert a real razor many years ago and the rubber grip just would not hold paint. Let alone trying to remove the rubbery ridge around the edges of the razor and filling in the grip section on the back; very unsatisfying results all around.

The resin cast looks just like screen-used so good call.
 
Hi,
Yes, that's right. An original razor was used for the master and our replicas were cast from that. The main reason we are convinced that the real prop was a resin cast as well, is that the opening in the bottom for the pcb is so big, that very little material is left and in a real razor that wouldn't be possible. Another reason is that the two types of material on the razor would be very hard to finish without showing on the prop. I hope this is clear?
Here are a few images from the WIP.

Cheers,
Roy
I'm looking at the pictures of the original, and the buttons on the side look too free/loose to be a cast, and that hole in the bottom is literally just ground in. It very well could be a cast of that, but the buttons are clearly separate on the original piece.

Edit:
Then again, now that I'm looking closer, there are air bubbles, it was a cast.
 
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I cast the whole razor as well and you can get REALLY good detail. I sprayed the silicone grip with clear coat and it came out near identical. I used the “blade” clip as a pour spout since all the greeblies get glued up there.
 
Isn't that the truth. I tried to convert a real razor many years ago and the rubber grip just would not hold paint. Let alone trying to remove the rubbery ridge around the edges of the razor and filling in the grip section on the back; very unsatisfying results all around.

The resin cast looks just like screen-used so good call.

Same here. I've had one of the original razors since 99 and put it on the back burner until I could cast it.
 
I cast the whole razor as well and you can get REALLY good detail. I sprayed the silicone grip with clear coat and it came out near identical. I used the “blade” clip as a pour spout since all the greeblies get glued up there.

He didn’t post the link since it’s out of the junkyard, but since people are looking for resin casts, Tom sells them here:

 
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