Iron Man Mk3 Build

Before the resin stage I have seen people place folded aluminium/tin/cooking foil between the separate parts and when it comes time to re-separate the parts it is much easier to separate with limited to no cutting required, I did this for my Iron Man helmet, have yet to finish the resin and fibreglass stage though.
 
O.K.! Michael, I might have a solution to your flex/cracking problem.........i saw someone create a finished armor using drywall mud and paint! they claimed it held up to being dropped on concrete and only chipping a bit. Here is what they did, Apply one thin coat of compound and lightly sand to shape then paint on one coat of paint or primer, Then apply second thin coat of compound sand, paint, etc.... this should work fast and simple giving you the strength you want to withstand casting and not cost you any more $$$ give it a shot, who knows, it just might work! and you should be able to get one heck of a smooth surface out of it.
 
O.K.! Michael, I might have a solution to your flex/cracking problem.........i saw someone create a finished armor using drywall mud and paint! they claimed it held up to being dropped on concrete and only chipping a bit.

I believe your speaking of Mightyjohn's build, those parts were fiberglass reinforced, thats why they held up so good, we just need a way to make electraflier's parts strong enought to hold up through the finishing process so they can be molded, since he wants to avoid glassing the inside i would just try coating the inside with enough layers of the smooth cast till it has almost no flex, should work for the smaller parts ok , but you may need a little more reinforcement for the larger parts like the chest and back, especially the area of the back that hangs over the shoulders.
 
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:thumbsupWow! You guys are so, so awesome! I appreciate so much the thought each you are putting into this to help me on this build!
I assure you all that it was not time wasted as this build will be to a completed suit! God willing!

I was going to "quote" each one of you by way of response, but as my posts are already way too long, for brevity (thats a laugh) :behaveI will just paraphrase with credit/nods to each one of you if you dont mind!
Dancin and Surreal, you are both absolutely correct! The stress of sanding is 100% the downfall of the spackle method! I will have to absolutely use smoothcast or fiberglass the insides of the pieces especially the larger pieces if I am to succeed in my plan!
Where I tested and flexed the plain spackle, it crackled or slit along very fine hairlines and even flaked off in spots like Surreal had offered! I like the sculpey clay idea but I have to admit the stuff here is too pricey for a large suit. It might be cheaper on eBay..? I like the clay as well, but as it stays soft, and I am going to have to be very thin in spots I worry about adherance and durability, even if I varish it.
Zachary, wow thanks for the input! I will have to say that is good news and I needed to hear that it had been done succesfully,and your comment gave Surreal the jog to get me looking for Mightyjohn.
Surreal, I will look up that MightyJohn thread!
I have suspected pretty early that if I were to make my base strong enough I will have less issues. I also had even thought to maybe get my spackle close to where I wanted it through thin layers and sanding, then give it a thin coat of resin, priimer or even smooth cast. Then finish again, primer and finish sanding. Then go onto make my mold.. wheeew whata process!


I also have very, very exciting news! You saw in my last post, that I had mixed the high strength spackle with sandable wood glue and it works!!!! Outstandingly if I say so myself!:cool
It is a little stickier to sand and you have to dust off the part, but it sicks like well,,,,glue? Flexibility was wayyy better and the only cracking and chipping I had was over the untreated spackle that I had left on the back part of the piece!!! :thumbsup
The chip you see on the upper edge was just an accident when I slipped with a sanding block, but it is clearly further evidence that fiberglass or another method be added to insure stability and sufficient durability!!
I have to tell you I am excited and spackle is so much less difficult to work than Bondo...
Here is the picture!! Now remember this is a test bed and not a final product. It is pep covered only with an inside/outside single thin coat of autobody resin with no glass> I have only rough sanded it, manhandled it and even knocked it on the ground to bang off the stickier dust!!!:lol It is very, very flexible at the edges and open areas. Soft almost. You can even still tear the paper!
refinedboot.jpg

Clearly several more sandings and applications of mud would need to be applied. But the ability to keep my edges and use and Xacto blade to carve in sharp seams was there as well. This represented about 15 minutes of block, and emry board work with Xacto to carve out corners!:cool
I am researching the smooth cast this weekend between obligations and part building.
I think I'd prefer painting in some smoothcast, but glassing the inside is no issue if it will allow me to work the cheaper and far easier to manipulate my spackle glue mix... My only issue now is drying time, but honestly gentlemen, with so many parts to build, I have tons of time to lay up a piece then let it dry as I keep on working on other parts. The time gained in sanding/finishing will more than offset the lost drying time!!!:)
 
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Wow it looks great, and you say it's still quite flexible?

I wonder if this concoction could be used on foam builds to fill in the cracks and seams.

Another option since you're just using the pieces for molding would be to lay up multiple cardboard supports inside like an inner skeleton. A few supports in the right place should give you enough support to minimize the flexing.
 
Definately not that flexible! :confused
But considering how soft this pep file is, it is way more flexible than just plain old chalk spackle. You might be able to use seam filler/like the stuff they caulk into seams when the put the panels on a car. You see the stuff on trunk seams under that mats?. Very thick rubbery stuff. Dont have a clue where to get that. I had been wondering the same thing as I want to do a Foam War Machine too???
 
Well after a screw up that caused me to have to rebuild my shin as I left out a ridge on the knee and the shin itself... Super nice detail now that Im rebuilding! LOL! Shout out to my good friend Blackwindpep87 for teaching my about the roller on my mouse to bring the 3D image closer to the screen so you can see small details LOL!:facepalm:lol
Here is my new knee from Dancing_Fools mastful pep!
knee2.jpg


Dont know if it is against pep protocol but I found a great use for that case of popsickle sticks I had laying about. I hate unsupported edges so lined them with cut pieces of stick so they dont sag when I resin them...but man these edges are sharp and the knee sits laser flat on my glass table! Very happy!
knee3.jpg

On to the upper calf pieces! My plan is to build all the small shin/calf pieces and use them for the final alignment before I resin.



That is the same thing I'm doing on my suit too, I think it makes them a little more stable and also it gives the edges some strength
 
I finally broke down after watching several more DIY YouTube videos and bought my smooth cast 320 - 321 so I can start firming up my armor! :coolI am almost finished with the lower leg assembly. Then will have to trim a couple of shims and harden a couple of areas before I close up the whole lower leg to insure good alignment, but it should be very do-able and only slightly fiddly.. Famous last words LOL!:facepalm
Heres some pics of the almost finished shin. I have all the right side dongles done and will finish the left soon!

lowerleg3.jpg


lowerleg1.jpg


The gaps are a little large on the top calf bulge where it meets the shin,due to resistance from one of the inner shims and the outer flaps desire to flatten itself out as it hasnt accepted the curves yet. I left it taped in to help "fix" it into shape and will tweek it more on the morrow. A little trimming of the edges should also leave it intact and allow me to afix the edges of the parts and go onto my Smoot Cast phase. Then on to skinning and finish work!! I will likey have to adjust pieces and adjust shims to make it perfect, due to the near constant stream of slight alignment issues that occur when you glue one seam right on a line and the next slightly off of it. That does build in slight wobble and drift as the larger pieces get assembled. They are however very slight misalignments, but cumulative.:sick However a little pressure on the seams as I glue up should resolve the whole piece into one super smooth unit!!
I have yet to decide how to handle the actual seam fusion. The Tin Foil idea has merit, but I think I am leaning to thin 1/20th soft balsa wood strips down each seam, or just gluing the things together, black all my edges with Sharpie then cutting them apart after the Smooth Cast has cured...
After seeing Davys' picture perfect mask cut and how clean it is,(Not Bamboodia as I sleepily wrote)(Sorry Davy I just edited for a correction) (LOL thanaks Project I sit corrected) :$
I my just glue it together as is, make my "unit" then cut a single good seam. You should see his work!!! Here's a link!
Iron Man Mark 4/6 from Germany HELMET IN PROGRESS - Page 15

Dancin_Fool, You mentioned flexible material for filling a seam in foam armour builds, I was wondering if you had looked into Flex Foam-iT! 17® Revs Up Flexible Foam? It is a flexible urethane foam that might be used to fill gaps in foam armor? I have no idea what adherence qualities it has but it might be worth a look? Maybe 30 min epoxy spread in the seam prior to putting in the liquid foam, then the Flex Foam smoothed into the seam to harden into the epoxy?
Heres the link.
Flex Foam-iT! 17® Revs Up Flexible Foam Performance

It's a crazy idea, but it's so crazy it just might work! :wacko
 
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Im sorry about the typo Bamboodia! Yours is an awesome build as well!! I was looking at Davys' helmet cut but was thinking about your thread at the same time LOL! :wacko, So much impressive work, by my inspirations!
I love that you, Davy and a few others are doing the pep-ing like me as so many are going to foam and only a few of us seem to be staying the old fashion way! I am glad too Bamboodia that you are ahead of me so I can learn from you my brother!
I love the potential for detailing the peps give. I have to admit though, I will be doing a Foam War Machine soon so I have something for Halloween.
The Mk 3 will not be done by then, Im wayyy too picky. I think thats why I like the peps.
M
 
Michael im sure when you hold on this things what i have saying , you wehre going the long road and find the end of it ! Keep it up !
 
I have to be honest and say I've never tried pep-ing anything before, but it looks like a very solid way to do things. I've seen countless guys using basically the same technique of adding resin and fiberglass or (something rigid) and then sanding it to shape. To me that seems like the long way home, not to mention a toxic smelly mess. I think a solid pep base like this one would benefit from just using resin to make a rigid under structure, and then using a thin layer of Chavant to form it to the exact shape you want. (Chavant is one of the most popular clays in Hollywood FX studios) It's dense enough to hold the finest of detail, and easy to use. Here's a link to their site. http://www.chavant.com. Check out this large image on their site as well. Chavant, Inc. Banner Batman Armor Page
 
Thanks Davy! Your good advice is supremely appreciated! Ruprekt!! I thought I was the only one that remembered Ruprekt the Monkey Boy! Man I miss old Steve Martin from when he was funny! :cry
I will look into the Chavant! I am guessing that this material is what they do most of their special effects moldings in! Will loki it up tomorrow! Thanks for the tips guys!
You know you are addicted to pepakura when your idea of a break is to stop building a stubborn part and build a different one LMAO! :lol
I was needing a break off my calf build so I built a neck piece!! That was a fun one! Non stop in one rainy evening!!:love It may be my imagination but I seem to be getting faster! Nearly as fast as foam LOL! Big fat NOT! :confused
necktwo.jpg

neckfour.jpg

This is a very elegant build with nice curves and details!!! :love
The back is cool too with these little depressions, didnt take a pic of that this time.
I will figure out where I want to cut it tomorrow after some sleep!!
There are a couple of seams up both sides of the back that will probably work and allow me to velcro it back together under the back of the helmet!

So off to bed where I will most certainly be dreaming of my Projectearth7 Helmet, that Project told me was going into filler and primer!!! I am excited as a kid at Christmas!!!
Thanks for the update RJ you made my night!!!!
Davy dont be too disappointed with me!!! I usually finish one piece then go on to the next, but I needed a break from the legs and wanted to do a smaller part!!! :darnkids
 
Wheew! What a week at work! Long end to last week, bad rains and problems at work that just didnt seem to want to stay resolved.....*sigh*:facepalm
Thank God for this forum and the stready stream of up dates to the 40 some odd threads I follow! Inspiration every day and something to think about to put me in a happy place! Thanks everyone!:lol
Only news to report is that the lovely Zabana boot was resined and cut apart to find! %^&* it is too small! :angry (So if there is a way to edit each ratio on the pepakura designer one at a time versus change one, they all change: I would love to hear how pleassseee!) :cry
It came out like a size 7 and Im a 10? :sick so I cut it apart rebuilt it into a hideous mess that fit my jumbo foot and took measurements again and again and fiddled with pepakura designer 3 until I fixed it! Off to build boot number 4! Rats!:behave

Davy, your support is so appreciated. Congrats on the helmet completion!!! You rock! Bambooda you are amazing too!! Surreal and project earth you are demigods! :lol Also every Guru/Ninja master that I havent mentioned!!
I know we have all been there for a part that failed epically and or died in molding or something. That is why there are so few full suits out there. Few people can kill 20 hours then dust off reboot pun intended and start all over again with only a sniffle and mild whining to an ambivalent but loving spouse! :lol :love
Good thing is I only need one really great boot for a mold then i can make 100 of the blasted things if I so choose. however I only need 2 pair, one for mk 3 and a slight mod for War Machine.
Other good news to report, my cases of 320 and 321 smooth cast arrived so I am going to harden my neck piece completed and my next boot and my completed calf pieces!Then on to my thigh pieces! Then yes you heard me body filler....
I broke down and bought body putty and sanding gear! If anybody needing tools reads, this go to Harbour freight! Harbor Freight Tools
I literally bought every tool I needed, like electric orbital sanders papers a micro belt sander for getting into the insides of parts and a detail sander for 69$ Unless you need and demand name brand Ryobi ect and want to be ripped off at a major franchise store check this out! I was so happy! It is a hobbyist candy store...unless you want to go to Surreal Studeos for Unibeam eye candy LOL!
By the way I solved 16 major problems in 2 days after weeks of fussing. Now I get to build Iron Man!!! Does it get better than that ! I also bought MIghtyJohns installation guide for hinging my helmet! http://www.therpf.com/f13/ironman-helmet-hinge-installation-guide-118736/
Definately worth the price and very very descriptive... It is amazing!
Only One million more micro problems to solve for one build! But they are fun to solve!
 
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