Polsnulspace
Sr Member
Hahaha, I wish. I've got no experience with making molds or copies. However, I am a mechanical engineering student, which means that I can give everyone here a nice set of schematics, some good detail pictures, a detailed overview of the processes I used (and what processes would have worked better), and lots of suggestions to improve on my first attempt.
I'm sure with that, guys like Rick will be able to make a beautiful version of my "prototype."
On a side note: Mine will be slightly undersized. I'm building my Arc-II with a 3" outer diameter, instead of the ~4" people have been usually going with. The reason for this is simple: My shoulders aren't quite as wide as RDjr. My optimal size would be 3.5" - 3.75", because that's almost perfect scaling, but I've tried looking at 4" diameters and it just looks goofy on me. v:rolleyesv
I'm not looking a 3" diameter gift horse in the mouth.
I'm sure with that, guys like Rick will be able to make a beautiful version of my "prototype."
On a side note: Mine will be slightly undersized. I'm building my Arc-II with a 3" outer diameter, instead of the ~4" people have been usually going with. The reason for this is simple: My shoulders aren't quite as wide as RDjr. My optimal size would be 3.5" - 3.75", because that's almost perfect scaling, but I've tried looking at 4" diameters and it just looks goofy on me. v:rolleyesv
I'm not looking a 3" diameter gift horse in the mouth.
Ok, so I've decided to make the MKII Arc Reactor, not the MKI "Cave Edition" that everyone else has been making.
Here's the MkII for reference:
and
That bottom pic looks like the Mark I. Take a closer look. It is very different from the first picture which is the MkII. This is the scene where he pulls out the old one to put in the new one, is it not?
There are holes around the lip on the top picture and not on the bottom.
It's the Mark 2. On the Mark one the center ring is black, not silver, plus the little spacer thingies don't have the copper wiring wrapped around them and they are thinner than the Mark 1 version.
And if that's not enough, like Mike said, her hands are already slimy!
-B89!
And if that's not enough, like Mike said, her hands are already slimy!
-B89!
To answer this last part, it appears that a cap goes over the assembly, and is annular in shape. It's held in place by 10 machine screws about 2 mm in diameter. It also appears to have two sloped profiles.
I COULD make that, but it'll be hard as hell to machine, and i don't think i have the time before Halloween, so that would be an eventual upgrade.
For proof, here's a comparison of the two:
Mark I
MarkII
The more i look at it, the more I prefer MKII
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"plus the little spacer thingies don't have the copper wiring wrapped around them "
:confused They don't?
:confused They don't?
sorry for the double post but:
can anyone tell me a good way of adding a frosted/satin finish to a piece of clear plex? Preferably one that is not involving sandblasters and the like?
Also, damn, I made my outer ring's inner diameter too small. At my scale (3:4) the light ring should be 5/16" or 3/8" annular thickness. I've got 1/2", and it looks really chunky. I have to find a way to fix that asap, and I can't use the machine shop again because the thesis machining has started. crap.
can anyone tell me a good way of adding a frosted/satin finish to a piece of clear plex? Preferably one that is not involving sandblasters and the like?
Also, damn, I made my outer ring's inner diameter too small. At my scale (3:4) the light ring should be 5/16" or 3/8" annular thickness. I've got 1/2", and it looks really chunky. I have to find a way to fix that asap, and I can't use the machine shop again because the thesis machining has started. crap.
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ricksprops
Well-Known Member
^^^
From my understanding, true size diameter of the outer metal casing should be the same as the Cave Edition, so about 4 inches. After that, the dimensions get a little tricky. I'm keeping track of my solutions, and at the end of this I'll hopefully be posting tons of photos, sketches, maybe even a SolidEdge file or two (heck, maybe even the milling code for the scaffold piece if it comes to that).
EDIT: also, the metal clips for the copper wire wraps SEEM to be about 6.5 - 7 mm wide. I'm planning 5mm wide for my 3/4 scale model, but that may change.
Sweet, thanks. Upside: getting access to the new machine shop staring Wednesday, and they DO have a light sandblaster, so it looks like I'll get to do this the right way. If not, now I have a backup plan.
From my understanding, true size diameter of the outer metal casing should be the same as the Cave Edition, so about 4 inches. After that, the dimensions get a little tricky. I'm keeping track of my solutions, and at the end of this I'll hopefully be posting tons of photos, sketches, maybe even a SolidEdge file or two (heck, maybe even the milling code for the scaffold piece if it comes to that).
EDIT: also, the metal clips for the copper wire wraps SEEM to be about 6.5 - 7 mm wide. I'm planning 5mm wide for my 3/4 scale model, but that may change.
Sweet, thanks. Upside: getting access to the new machine shop staring Wednesday, and they DO have a light sandblaster, so it looks like I'll get to do this the right way. If not, now I have a backup plan.
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After staring at the 3 images I have to work with, I've discovered something.
The metallic inner ring (the scaffold from the Cave Edition) that holds up the suspended slender ring, and the bottom baffles (the series of thin rings at the back of the reactor in the Cave Edition) look fundamentally different in the ArcII device.
Instead of a series of rings, the bottom baffles are some sort of interlocking curved plate that runs the perimeter of the back. Same effect, totally different shape.
The metallic inner ring doesn't have holes through it (so it looks nothing like a scaffold), and instead is a flat annulus with rectangular cuts going through most of it's annular thickness from the outer edge.
I'm not sure if these differences are going to make things easier to machine, or harder. We'll see.
I'll post sketches of the parts ASAP. It looks like Tony was just making do in the cave, and changed thing when he got back due to machine shop access and an AI supercomputer with an autofab facility...
The metallic inner ring (the scaffold from the Cave Edition) that holds up the suspended slender ring, and the bottom baffles (the series of thin rings at the back of the reactor in the Cave Edition) look fundamentally different in the ArcII device.
Instead of a series of rings, the bottom baffles are some sort of interlocking curved plate that runs the perimeter of the back. Same effect, totally different shape.
The metallic inner ring doesn't have holes through it (so it looks nothing like a scaffold), and instead is a flat annulus with rectangular cuts going through most of it's annular thickness from the outer edge.
I'm not sure if these differences are going to make things easier to machine, or harder. We'll see.
I'll post sketches of the parts ASAP. It looks like Tony was just making do in the cave, and changed thing when he got back due to machine shop access and an AI supercomputer with an autofab facility...
I'm back.
I've got some diagrams here, of the two parts. The measurements are in inches, and are for a 3:4 scale prop, where we assume that a fullsize arc reactor has an outer casing diameter of 4".
For reference, my Light Ring is 2 - 3/8" in outer diameter, and 1.75" for it's inner diameter. Sorry, no pics yet, my camera's buggered.
The Annulus:
This replaces the "Scaffold" in the Cave Edition. As you can see, instead of holes through it, it has weird notches chopped out of it. I have no idea why, but I like the look better.
It's hard as hell to get a good look at this in the pics, but I've pieced it together as best I can.
The Lattice:
This part replaces the slender rings a the back of the Cave Edition. It seems to actually be more complicated than this, in the true prop, but terrible images and a lack of machining time have lead to me simplifying the design. Its a good starting point, but this is THAT PART in the Arc2 that's going to be held in contention by anyone that tries to make one. It's so hard to see, and so intricate, that without some front-lit closeups we're in the dark.
You'll note that I didn't fill in all the angles, that's because the pattern just repeats. Also, the radial measurements of the cuts are based on either side of the cut, but those of you good with math will see that it's a 1/32" cut, and will be able to get the center line distance. Machining this might be totally impossible with what I have access to right now, so I might have to use clear plex with the "metal" parts painted silver and the "cuts" left clear.
More in the coming weeks.
I've got some diagrams here, of the two parts. The measurements are in inches, and are for a 3:4 scale prop, where we assume that a fullsize arc reactor has an outer casing diameter of 4".
For reference, my Light Ring is 2 - 3/8" in outer diameter, and 1.75" for it's inner diameter. Sorry, no pics yet, my camera's buggered.
The Annulus:
This replaces the "Scaffold" in the Cave Edition. As you can see, instead of holes through it, it has weird notches chopped out of it. I have no idea why, but I like the look better.
It's hard as hell to get a good look at this in the pics, but I've pieced it together as best I can.
The Lattice:
This part replaces the slender rings a the back of the Cave Edition. It seems to actually be more complicated than this, in the true prop, but terrible images and a lack of machining time have lead to me simplifying the design. Its a good starting point, but this is THAT PART in the Arc2 that's going to be held in contention by anyone that tries to make one. It's so hard to see, and so intricate, that without some front-lit closeups we're in the dark.
You'll note that I didn't fill in all the angles, that's because the pattern just repeats. Also, the radial measurements of the cuts are based on either side of the cut, but those of you good with math will see that it's a 1/32" cut, and will be able to get the center line distance. Machining this might be totally impossible with what I have access to right now, so I might have to use clear plex with the "metal" parts painted silver and the "cuts" left clear.
More in the coming weeks.
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