Iron Man Mark 39 Gemini Foam Build!!

looking good!

Now, quickly finish it!

(Nah, please take your time, don't ruin it :) )

Its a short list of things left to do!
- Helmet faceplate hinge system
- Hide wires and finish forearms
- Code and install of v2 arc reactor in chest piece
- Plastidip
- Paint!!
 
Why plastidip?

When working with foam, you have to seal the cells up before you paint, otherwise it will just soak into it. Usually people use some sort of PVA glue or Modge Podge, or plastidip. There are benefits and drawbacks to each option. I've already coated things with glue, I'm going to try plastidip as well on a test section of foam to see how the two sealants interact with each other and what the finish looks like afterwards. Then I'll decide whether to use plastidip on the suit or just paint it as is.
 
Looking good, sorry it took me a week to make it over to your thread.

I used both PVA glue and plastidip, they worked fine. You absolutely must let the glue dry 100% before you plastidip though. I made a mistake towards the end when I was rushing, but its a quick fix, the key is patience.

I was curious what you have been doing for the electronics of the suit: repulsors, arc reactor, eyes, etc. I see you have a hinge on the exterior of the helmet. I will be making a helmet soon so I am just trying to learn more.
 
Looking good, sorry it took me a week to make it over to your thread.

I used both PVA glue and plastidip, they worked fine. You absolutely must let the glue dry 100% before you plastidip though. I made a mistake towards the end when I was rushing, but its a quick fix, the key is patience.

I was curious what you have been doing for the electronics of the suit: repulsors, arc reactor, eyes, etc. I see you have a hinge on the exterior of the helmet. I will be making a helmet soon so I am just trying to learn more.

No problem, thanks for stopping by! I will be posting a huge update this weekend on all the progress. Fingers crossed, I should be all done after this weekend and ready to paint as soon as it's warm enough out. I think I'm going for a mix of pva and plastidip on different pieces.

Helmet:
I've had a really hard time on the helmet fitting in a hinge system with servos, and I have a con to go to in a month, so I made a new helmet and and going to build a manual hinge system. I'll have magnets in place to hold the faceplate in the up or down position and I'll just move it with my hands. I do have the servos and code working, however the faceplate is too heavy for the servos to hold up.

Eyes:
I'll add pictures and more updates, but essentially its an led strip glued to some sunglasses lenses and glued to the helmet. Check out xRobots on youtube for his LED eye setup.
I have a wire that hookups at the back of the helmet and runs down the inside of the suit to the hip plate, where I've wired a simple pushbutton. This will be used to cycle through different eye flickering functions that I will code and upload to my arduino

Repulsors:
I took apart some old led flashlights and wired the light into the hand, the wire up the forearm, and the battery pack under the foream fin. I have a reed switch in the wrist of the hand and magnets glued into the wrist of the forearm so that when I make the proper hand motions the magnets make contact and light up the repulsor.

Arc Reactor:
Again, check out xRobots for his Iron Man unibeam design. I'm attempting to do something similar for the arc reactor, using an arduino and an L298N motor driver.
 
Big update for you guys!! Did a lot of ordering from Amazon and got all my electronics parts I needed. One fried arduino later, I bring you my completed arc reactor!


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I have three 10w leds wired up, so I needed something more powerful than my arduino to drive them. I got a L298N motor driver and wired both motor outputs to my led cluster.

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I've put a pushbutton in the circuit to activate the fade in. The lights are too bright to turn on right away, so I have them fade in and then back out. Also this cuts down on battery drain.

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Here is my led pack that I made. I wired three 10w leds in parallel. I'm using three 9v batteries wired in series to power the motor driver, which in turn drives the led cluster. I'm using a separate 9v battery to power the arduino and drive the logic circuit. I know people on here hate 9v batteries, however they serve my needs just fine. After I wear the suit out for a few hours, I'll see if I need to upgrade to better batteries but for now it works perfectly.

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These pictures don't do the brightness justice. It actually is much brighter but the camera can't compensate. The picture with one LED is even brighter, but there are several layers of plastic to diffuse the light in the suit so it is less harsh.
 
I've also set up some jetpack lights wired to an on/off switch. Nothing fancy, but lights really make a costume pop. I took a simple cool white led strip powered by 3 AA batteries and colored them blue with a sharpie. I ran the switch down to the hip plate so I can reach down with my glove on and turn the lights on or off.

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I made some boxes out of craft foam, poked some holes in them, and glued the leds in each hole.
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The first boxes I made looked awesome, however they didn't quite fit in the inside of the jetpack.

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Here's the v2 "ice cream sandwich" boxes. Much smaller and slimmer as well. They fit quite nicely.

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Here's a good shot of the back when the lights are on. I would look much better in the dark. I also fit the switch inside the hip plate.
 
¡Hola, chicos! Acabo de empezar a armar esto. El Mark 39 es uno de los legiones de la película Iron Man 3. Estaba desplazándome por las capturas de pantalla de la película y la vi y tuve que hacerla. ¡Síguenos para ver el progreso!

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¡Subiré archivos en formato de espuma a medida que avanzo! Estoy usando archivos pepakura de Pepcowboy. ¡Mira esto!
me los puedes pasar
 
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