RocFoamArmory
Active Member
Latest update, I've made a shin piece, a boot, and the cod piece. The leg I have done is scaled too large, so I'm going to scale it down a few inches and redo it.
Iron Man Mark 39 Gemini Foam Build!!
- Thread starter RocFoamArmory
- Start date
RocFoamArmory
Active Member
I've done a lot since my last post, so here it is!
It took a few tries, but the legs are done! I will have to do a few adjustments to make them fit better.
The ribs and abs took a lot of patient, with the little pieces. I may have to add extra foam behind the ribs to cover any gaps between them and the chest piece.
I printed out a hexagon, about 3/4 inch in diameter, and glued it to the end of a mechanical pencil. I traced the hex pattern, cut part of the way through the foam, and hit it with the heat gun to open up the cuts. Adds a great texture!
It took a few tries, but the legs are done! I will have to do a few adjustments to make them fit better.
The ribs and abs took a lot of patient, with the little pieces. I may have to add extra foam behind the ribs to cover any gaps between them and the chest piece.
I printed out a hexagon, about 3/4 inch in diameter, and glued it to the end of a mechanical pencil. I traced the hex pattern, cut part of the way through the foam, and hit it with the heat gun to open up the cuts. Adds a great texture!
I want to give a try to foam but before when you cut bevel do you always cut them 45 and adjust the angle with hot glue? if not how do you know what angle to cut them all the time ☺ you got a new subscriber my friend your work is awesome
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RocFoamArmory
Active Member
Many thanks friend!
I love working with foam and creating this stuff is awesome. When I'm cutting out my foam pieces, I follow a process I came up with that seems to work.
- If you're using templates have the digital model somewhere nearby to see how to pieces fit. Some sort of reference helps a lot.
- I cut 30-45 degree angles in all my edges unless its an outer edge, like the bottom rim of a helmet or the end of a forearm piece.
- Hot glue just the edge of the two pieces you are joining to create a hinge of sorts. This way you can adjust the angle as you go along. It may seem flimsy at first but when its complete it will hold its shape.
- When the piece is assembled I will go in with hot glue on the inside of the piece and strengthen up the joints between the edges. It helps to make the piece stronger.
- Finally I take a heat gun and go over the entire piece a few times to shape the foam how I want it. The heat gun is great at getting glue off the outside of your piece if it seeps through a seam.
Wow thank you best explanation ever really appreciated im doing one fiberglass mark 6 just to try and this obe will be the showoff one with lot of electronics and all and because i like so much their result but omg I started in in december and I need it done for june but its so long in paper like 1 or 2 week per pieces mostly 2 to 3 in my case ahah and i work on it everyday and also really expensive and I start thinking it doesnt make any sense 1 year for a suit is foam build faster ? What I like of foam even if its durability is less longer knowing that after some years foam turn in powder what i like is that you dont have to resin bondo sand bondo sand bondo and sand again its foam mod podge plasti dip and your done but can we make electronic system like faceplate opening , spoilers with foam suit ?
I want to build mk39 mk7 and mk42 in foam after my mk6 keep on the good workRocFoamArmory
Active Member
Wow thank you best explanation ever really appreciated im doing one fiberglass mark 6 just to try and this obe will be the showoff one with lot of electronics and all and because i like so much their result but omg I started in in december and I need it done for june but its so long in paper like 1 or 2 week per pieces mostly 2 to 3 in my case ahah and i work on it everyday and also really expensive and I start thinking it doesnt make any sense 1 year for a suit is foam build faster ? What I like of foam even if its durability is less longer knowing that after some years foam turn in powder what i like is that you dont have to resin bondo sand bondo sand bondo and sand again its foam mod podge plasti dip and your done but can we make electronic system like faceplate opening , spoilers with foam suit ?
Foam is definitely faster to work with. I've made a mark6 out of foam and I'm nearing completion on my mark39 and it's taking less time than the fiberglass mark6 I made. Foam is a lot safer to work with as well. I've done some LED wiring with foam and it works just fine. You might have to do different things with foam to work with moving parts but it's doable. Once I finish my mark39 I'm doing a foam mark7
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I always cut it straight down in the back and put the velcro there where it won't be seen. I would plastidip first and then cut it that way the plastidip helps hold the original shape.
Im finnally done with my neck and its quite a sucess for a first build next time I might take care to avoid outside hot glue excess . And i nearly ruined my work ahah when I got the bad idea to use the heat gun to remove the hotglue excess outside ahahah bad idea i grabbed it just in time before everything get unglued ahah here is ny first foam result
RocFoamArmory
Active Member
Looks good! Solid build
Thank you your explanation helped me a lot to do it . The only that start to stress me is that so glued spot are startin to detach but it might be because I didnt used a heat gun to curve the pieces before gluing them because I dont have one yet so might be caused by the tension of the foam on the edges that want to take is original shape again
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RocFoamArmory
Active Member
Here's another big update for you guys!
I've assembled the torso! Still a bit of work to do, but I'll explain the three main connections. The cod plate clips on the front on each side with buckles. The jetpack/back armor is not attached directly, it is attached with nylon and elastic straps right where it joins the back of the ribs. This allows it to hinge backward while I pull the piece on me, and then it has two buckles that hook it around my neck and onto the front chest piece. I did a quick led wiring for the arc reactor. It won't be my final arc reactor because it's less bright than I'd like, but stay tuned for that!
I've done a rather crude led wiring setup for the eyes as well, but will most likely be redoing it. This is my first attempt at electronics. The camera made these eyes look pretty cool though! I think I'll end up building a new helmet from scratch so I'll keep this one as decoration.
The legs are turning out awesome! I'll have to put risers inside the boots to make me tall enough for them. I've started making the hex pattern on one of the legs and it is a chore! Tracing and cutting them all out by hand. For the joint I've added some extra scrap 6mm foam and used 3/8 inch chicago screws from Amazon. I ran into an issue with the screws slipping through the foam, so I'll be adding some large washers to prevent that.
Finally finished both shoulders with the hex pattern. I've also started applying Mod Podge in thin layers to the outside of the foam after using the heat gun. It's making it really glossy, which is awesome.
Thanks for reading guys and I'll see you with the next update! As always comment below with questions or critigues!
I've assembled the torso! Still a bit of work to do, but I'll explain the three main connections. The cod plate clips on the front on each side with buckles. The jetpack/back armor is not attached directly, it is attached with nylon and elastic straps right where it joins the back of the ribs. This allows it to hinge backward while I pull the piece on me, and then it has two buckles that hook it around my neck and onto the front chest piece. I did a quick led wiring for the arc reactor. It won't be my final arc reactor because it's less bright than I'd like, but stay tuned for that!
I've done a rather crude led wiring setup for the eyes as well, but will most likely be redoing it. This is my first attempt at electronics. The camera made these eyes look pretty cool though! I think I'll end up building a new helmet from scratch so I'll keep this one as decoration.
The legs are turning out awesome! I'll have to put risers inside the boots to make me tall enough for them. I've started making the hex pattern on one of the legs and it is a chore! Tracing and cutting them all out by hand. For the joint I've added some extra scrap 6mm foam and used 3/8 inch chicago screws from Amazon. I ran into an issue with the screws slipping through the foam, so I'll be adding some large washers to prevent that.
Finally finished both shoulders with the hex pattern. I've also started applying Mod Podge in thin layers to the outside of the foam after using the heat gun. It's making it really glossy, which is awesome.
Thanks for reading guys and I'll see you with the next update! As always comment below with questions or critigues!
Awesome I guess you open the hex with heat gun before gluing it to other parts to avoid melting the hot glue like I did Mr MasterShowoffLe yeah I call him like that because he is always doing is showoff but never help anyone well je now have serious reason to watch his back
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RocFoamArmory
Active Member
I used 6mm sheets. I don't use rolls of foam because I don't like having to deal with flattening them out.
Well I read again and I think I got my answer for the heatgun but do you need to do something special special to use the heatgun when everything is glued to avoid melting the hotglue? because I used a hairdryer like 30 second and I needed to stop because all the hotglue was melting and everything was starting to disassemble and normally the heat gun is a lot more hot so it would be worst I think. Im sorry if im spamming your threads its just that I really like your work and I would like to be able to do something like you
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RocFoamArmory
Active Member
I'm assuming you need more glue. And get a heat gun that has a high and a low setting. I use the low setting, and only heat small areas at a time. If the glue starts coming apart on a seam I'll stop and push it back together. The heat gun shouldn't be on a part long enough for the glue to be as hot as it would be out of the glue gun. Also hold it about 6-8 inches away and don't keep it on a spot too long.
Allright thanks for the tip
RocFoamArmory
Active Member
Well I don't know why it's upside down, but here ya go guys! This is all the pieces I have for my suit of armor. Minus the fingers. It's almost done!
