Hunk a Junk's Mando N-1 Hasbro toy conversion build log

Hunk a Junk

Sr Member
A few months back a friend was giving away his kids' Star Wars toys and I snapped up this original Hasbro N-1 fighter for free. It had a missing engine and some well-earned dings from children playing, but it was in otherwise good condition. The canopy bubble wasn't cracked, so that was a big plus for me.

My original idea was to convert it to a more accurate TPM replica: 3D print a new engine, replace the rubberized engine and tail spikes with accurate 3D parts, new cockpit and canopy frame, etc. After seeing last week's episode of Book of Boba Fett, however, it's a no-brainer to turn it into Mando's new ride instead. The proportions seem close enough and Mando's modifications make for a fun challenge.

entire ship finished.jpg


A couple of caveats before I begin: First, I'm still a 3D modelling and 3D printing noob. I've had an Elegoo Mars and a Creality Ender-5 Pro for over a year now, but I'm still figuring them out. My print fail rate is still frustratingly high and I have occasionally gone months not wanting to look at the damn machines. I have not had time to dabble much in 3D modeling, but I recently started playing around in Tinkercad and have found it easy and useful enough for an old dog to learn. So I'll be using it to make replacement parts. The 3D experts here are probably scoffing at my primitive ways, but... I have only so much time in the day. In fact, my work schedule means updates will be sporadic. I'll do my best. Strap in.

IMG_0120.jpg

Starting point. Played around with some initial mark-ups just to get a feel if a conversion was possible.

Version 2 (1).jpg

Proportions seem close enough. In fact, the break in the tail where the droopy rubberized spike attaches seems about right for were it stops on Mando's. I wouldn't be surprised if the show's design team mocked up a prototype using the same toy.

First step: Ripping the toy apart.

IMG_0122.jpg

A few screws removed and these are the guts. Removed all the electronics, the rubber R2 unit, and snapped off the remaining engine.

IMG_0156.jpg
IMG_0125.jpg

IMG_0129.jpg

Some disassembly required. I had to break part of the wing to get the engine off, but I'll be running some brass rectangle rod through the wing to run lights and support the new engines, so I can repair the wing later. The undersides of the wings are missing, so I'll be adding that with styrene.

IMG_0146.jpg

After stripping the stick-on decals, I gave it some primer to get a better look at what needs to change. The raised lines will be first to go.

IMG_0144.jpg
IMG_0147.jpg
IMG_0150.jpg


I did a quick proof of concept for the engine spikes in Tinkercad and printed it up. I discovered using screengrabs I inverted the raised areas on the new spikes, so I designed some new more accurate spikes that are printing this afternoon. The new spikes are fragile, so I'll experiment doing them in PLA as well. It would be nice to cast them in aluminum, but that's way outside my skill set for now.

That's it for now. Thanks for looking!
 

sbaxter

Well-Known Member
A few months back a friend was giving away his kids' Star Wars toys and I snapped up this original Hasbro N-1 fighter for free. It had a missing engine and some well-earned dings from children playing, but it was in otherwise good condition. The canopy bubble wasn't cracked, so that was a big plus for me.

My original idea was to convert it to a more accurate TPM replica: 3D print a new engine, replace the rubberized engine and tail spikes with accurate 3D parts, new cockpit and canopy frame, etc. After seeing last week's episode of Book of Boba Fett, however, it's a no-brainer to turn it into Mando's new ride instead. The proportions seem close enough and Mando's modifications make for a fun challenge.

View attachment 1540992

A couple of caveats before I begin: First, I'm still a 3D modelling and 3D printing noob. I've had an Elegoo Mars and a Creality Ender-5 Pro for over a year now, but I'm still figuring them out. My print fail rate is still frustratingly high and I have occasionally gone months not wanting to look at the damn machines. I have not had time to dabble much in 3D modeling, but I recently started playing around in Tinkercad and have found it easy and useful enough for an old dog to learn. So I'll be using it to make replacement parts. The 3D experts here are probably scoffing at my primitive ways, but... I have only so much time in the day. In fact, my work schedule means updates will be sporadic. I'll do my best. Strap in.

View attachment 1540978
Starting point. Played around with some initial mark-ups just to get a feel if a conversion was possible.

View attachment 1540979
Proportions seem close enough. In fact, the break in the tail where the droopy rubberized spike attaches seems about right for were it stops on Mando's. I wouldn't be surprised if the show's design team mocked up a prototype using the same toy.

First step: Ripping the toy apart.

View attachment 1540981
A few screws removed and these are the guts. Removed all the electronics, the rubber R2 unit, and snapped off the remaining engine.

View attachment 1540982 View attachment 1540984
View attachment 1540986
Some disassembly required. I had to break part of the wing to get the engine off, but I'll be running some brass rectangle rod through the wing to run lights and support the new engines, so I can repair the wing later. The undersides of the wings are missing, so I'll be adding that with styrene.

View attachment 1540987
After stripping the stick-on decals, I gave it some primer to get a better look at what needs to change. The raised lines will be first to go.

View attachment 1540988 View attachment 1540989 View attachment 1540990

I did a quick proof of concept for the engine spikes in Tinkercad and printed it up. I discovered using screengrabs I inverted the raised areas on the new spikes, so I designed some new more accurate spikes that are printing this afternoon. The new spikes are fragile, so I'll experiment doing them in PLA as well. It would be nice to cast them in aluminum, but that's way outside my skill set for now.

That's it for now. Thanks for looking!
I've got a couple of these Hasbro N-1 fighters. For years I searched for a way to replace the rubbery finials and cones but kept drawing a blank. I had recently thought of trying to make resin casts of those parts, and building an internal support out of metal that could be embedded inside the finals because I figured that just using straight resin would give you parts that would snap if you looked at them too hard.

I might be interested in getting copies of the ones you've made, or possibly just the files -- since, again, the completed parts might not survive shipping. This project has haunted me for more than 20 years!

SSB
 

Hunk a Junk

Sr Member
I've got a couple of these Hasbro N-1 fighters. For years I searched for a way to replace the rubbery finials and cones but kept drawing a blank. I had recently thought of trying to make resin casts of those parts, and building an internal support out of metal that could be embedded inside the finals because I figured that just using straight resin would give you parts that would snap if you looked at them too hard.

I might be interested in getting copies of the ones you've made, or possibly just the files -- since, again, the completed parts might not survive shipping. This project has haunted me for more than 20 years!

SSB

Same here. The spike/finials were something I looked at ever since the toys first came out but put off and off. I printed up my second prototype with the corrected "ribs" (which I believe were not on the original N-1 miniatures or full-size prop) but it still needs some tweaks.

IMG_0180.jpg

spike.jpg


I'll also be doing a test print in PLA and see if they're stronger. If nothing else, in the final version I think I'll hollow out a narrow tube as far up the length of the spike I can go so I can insert a brass rod for strength. It won't stop the sharp tip from breaking off, but may help a little. If anyone has ideas about metal casting, I'm all ears.

As far as these go, let me get a final version perfected and I'll see about making the file available. It's really pretty easy in Tinkercad. I watched a few tutorials (literally made by 8-year-olds) and whipped these out in an hour or so.
 

Hunk a Junk

Sr Member
Made a bit of progress. Removed the raised panel lines on the wings, started removing the extra material underneath the wings, and filled the two toy buttons behind the R2 socket.
IMG_0164.jpg

IMG_0173.jpg

IMG_0163.jpg

IMG_0174.jpg

IMG_0175.jpg

I'll be sanding, filling, and smoothing everything down before I get to the point of opening the panels where Mando's ship shows off the inner guts.

Thanks for looking!
 
Last edited:

Antsnest

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re fragility - could you do the brass rod up the middle and then make just the very tip out of something else stronger and blend the 2 parts together?
 

Hunk a Junk

Sr Member
I could use some telescoping rod and tube to get as deep as possible into the spike. Carbon fiber is a good idea too. Too bad 3D printers can't print in carbon fiber. (Yet)
 

Hunk a Junk

Sr Member
Printed a spike prototype on my Ender-5 Pro using PLA. Seems about as stiff as the resin spikes but not as brittle. It's also easier to see the layer lines, so sanding will be a bear. The long tip of the finial seems more likely to get distorted from random bumps and handling in resin than in PLA (these sentences all require an obligatory "that's what she said" ) :p
IMG_0186 (1).jpg

My three prototypes so far.

IMG_0188 (1).jpg

IMG_0189 (1).jpg


So I think the final version will be in PLA. I'll tweak the settings on the Ender to see if I can reduce the layer lines some more. Instead of mucking with inserting brass rods or trying to figure out carbon fiber (I need to keep this project moving) I'm going to mold a cylinder-shaped insert into the base of the spike to epoxy in a magnet. That way the spikes can be removed for transport or easily replaced if an accident happens and they get dinged. If the magnet has some give, they're less likely to snap (I hope).

Thanks for looking!
 

Hunk a Junk

Sr Member
FYI, I'm going with this model being 1:24 (assuming the "real" N-1 is 11 meters long - which is the number I see most frequently online)
 

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