How to protect paint coats?

[Weapioneer]

Greetings,
I do a decent bit of modeling and use a lot of spray paint due to my inability to smoothly paint, and generally give my object 1-3 coats of paint. Nowadays i am trying different finishes using powders and small amounts of paint to achieve a metallic/rusted/weathered/bloody/random effect, but i am worried about protecting the finish. Normally with a smooth color i can just re-coat it or use a marker but i want some way to protect it from damage.
Is there any easily available clear coating solution? i used to use fiber glassing resin but it was tinted red and also is very difficult to use(messed up many a model due to low hardener content). I was considering krylon clear coat but i am worried it won't stand up to scratches, drops and bending. Is krylon strong or should i use an enamel? I need something very commonly available and easy to use and apply and strong.
Thanks for reading and please Assist
~W

 

[division 6]

Testors makes a flat, satin and gloss coat.
Gloss coats are usually applied before adding decals to prevent silvering then a flat coat.

I would suggest visiting Fine Scale Modeling forum for more information on the subject.

 

[Weapioneer]

Thanks, i found some clear coats there which i may be able to use, but i can't get that brand where i live. Can you suggest a type of clear coat which i could ask local shops if they had?EG- polyurethane, resin, enamel,etc. Also, which one is really tough?

 

[Gattaca]

A lot of the model kit builders in Fine Scale Model Magazine use a product called Future, its actually a floor finish. It is glossy and like division 6 mentioned is applied before adding decals. Then a dulling coat to seal everything in. Future can be purchased in most grocery or hardware stores. I read that the name future was changed to pledge floor care. Always test on a spare model or part before applying to any model.

 

[Weapioneer]

If i were to use something like wood varnish, would it work on spray painted PVC? or would it wear off quickly?

 

[Gattaca]

I would not recommend using wood varnish, it's formulated to be used on wood. The plastic model makers swear by the Future product, or buy something from your hobby store made for clear coating models, not your fence.

 

[Weapioneer]

well, the only things i found were modge podge and oil paint varnishes, which i am not sure are strong enough or will be usable for acrylic paint. I can't get that kind of floor polish where i live, is there any type of varnish you could suggest? like Polyurethane?

 

[NormanF]

I am getting ready to do my first weathering job and everything I have read says if you use powders that clear coating them will remove a lot of effect.

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch

 

[Weapioneer]

I see. I have some paint powders that are to be mixed with 'binder 28' to make metalic paint, but i don't use it for that. i use them on painted surfaces to give a weathered uneven look. EG- weathered metal sword is done by spray painting the blade black with about 2 coats, then rubbing the superfine silver powder over unevenly. This creates a really good look, but it will fall off easily, and needs a clear coat on top to protect it, so i made this thread. I used to use fiber glassing resin, but i ended up bricking an entire sword which took me a month to carve due to insufficient hardener. I added another layer to it but now it does not fit into the scabbard i made.
So in order to prevent this disaster from occurring again, i am trying to find clear coat paint or something with low results. I just need a Tough and transparent coat, but i don't know what to use. Maybe Aquaresin or something? or a varnish?
anyway, one method i use to counter the fact that painting on resin causes the dust to wear of is to go overboard on putting the dust on, making the sword almost completely silver, and using irregular strokes with the resin brush to create the weathered effect.

 

[Gattaca]

any clear coat in a spray can will do, or there is water based varathane which goes on clear, well it's milky white at first but will turn clear.
you could try those if you are having trouble getting the other things where you live. Not sure where you live but I bought my bottle of Future at a grocery store.

 

[NormanF]

I read some recommendations for J.W. Right Step Matt so I got some from Amazon. Pretty sure none of my local hardware stores carry it so I ended up getting it from Amazon. Just make sure you stir it a lot since whatever makes it matte settles out. I mixed it 1:1 with filtered water and sprayed it from my airbrush.

 

[Weapioneer]

hmm, i don't think i can order things from the internet, most places don't ship cheaply to my location and i prefer to buy it at a shop so i can estimate better. I just need a TYPE of coating, which is transparent, strong, works with acrylic spray/brushed paint and plastic, and does not leave a sticky residue. I want to use this for props i make, EG- corvo's sword for dishonored, and i don't like the feel that some varnishes provide, and even after they dry they are still a little weak and sticky. I would like spray on, but i don't think that i can get that in my area, so probably a type of varnish. I was considering nail polish clear coat, but i need larger quantities than a tiny vial.
Any TYPE suggestions? EG-PU varnish,<insert chemical here> varnish, etc.
Thanks a lot,

 

[NormanF]

If it helps the label on the product I linked to says "water based varnish". Check your local hardware store. Someone there may actually be able to help you.

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch

 

[Weapioneer]

ok, so water based varnish is good? it won't leave a stick residue and has a hard coating? what is it made out of though?

 

[NormanF]

It does not give any specifics, but the label has "Superior Quality Acrylic Varnish" so it is acrylic which makes sense being water based. I think this stuff is more for art that will only occasionally be handled, not something that will be handled constantly like a weapon.

Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch

 

[Weapioneer]

hmm, ok. i won't be handling my props too roughly, like LARPing, but just cosplaying. it would have to protect against scratches and drops(both liquid and hitting-the-ground drops) at most. what exactly is modge podge? there is shop which sells it near by, for coating paint but it seems a little rubbish, though i am not sure. I think it is just for arts and crafts, but can someone clarify?

 

[Robojohn]

I know this is an old thread, but the considerations of varnish are based on the materials. Any varnish will add protection to your paint, but some are rigid and some are not. Liquitex and Golden (and other art companies) make acrylic varnishes. Each one specifies what it's used for, how it dries, etc. For foam, painted with acrylic you need a clear drying, non-removable, flexible varnish like Liquitex Gloss Varnish. I haven't tried varnish on hard props, but both acrylic and that specific varnish flex and protects which is necessary for foam to avoid creases. Once dry, it's almost water and scratch proof (though I wouldn't submerge it). Also if you're using powders, you'll probably need to use a fixative before varnish. Just check out art supply web sites.

With a hard prop, acrylic could easily be scratched off without a coat of varnish. If painting with a brush leaves too many brush strokes, you're probably better off with an acrylic spray varnish (matte for flat colors, gloss for metallic looking props), but do at least 3 coats allowing each coat to dry before the next. Rosco (makers of Flexbond) makes coatings for foam to make it rigid or just to seal and paint foam. You have to order from their website. Foamcoat might work as it adds a skin, but may be unnecessary for your props (especially since they sell it by the gallon).

Finally, acrylic paint needs to cure before varnishing. Dry time is hours, but curing time takes three days to a week depending on how thick the paint is.

Rigid props you may want to consider the all weather spray paints (for outside furniture) and then using a corresponding spray varnish.

PS Mod Podge is like a craft glue that can be lightly sanded. I haven't used it myself because it dries rigid and I've only used foam. You would still have to varnish it.

 

[Weapioneer]

I normally use acrylic in thin layers, and leave it to dry for a day before using it. I had gotten some all purpose varnish from a wood shop, but the stuff tends to blur the paint below since it dissolves it, but it is fine for flat colours. I also realized that not coating props with clear coats has its advantages too, since I can patch up the paintjob at will and I don't have to worry about it becoming too glossy.

Thanks,