How to plastic coat foam costume pieces
- Thread starter XRobots
- Start date
Sulaiman99usa
New Member
finally what i am looking for
7sinzz
Well-Known Member
I'd like to announce my own progress with 65d.
Using a syringe I added exactly 10ml of part A and 10ml of part B, mixed for than 10 seconds then coated half of my mk7 chest. Moved it around for about 2 minutes until first half was tacky then repeated on the other half. I waited 15 minutes then did some light sanding to create a key and repeated the process again. After the third coat I was happy with the coverage and I'm ready to body fill the low spots. I'll upload some pictures in a bit.
I would not advise using any more than 10ml of each at a time.
Using a syringe I added exactly 10ml of part A and 10ml of part B, mixed for than 10 seconds then coated half of my mk7 chest. Moved it around for about 2 minutes until first half was tacky then repeated on the other half. I waited 15 minutes then did some light sanding to create a key and repeated the process again. After the third coat I was happy with the coverage and I'm ready to body fill the low spots. I'll upload some pictures in a bit.
I would not advise using any more than 10ml of each at a time.
endo500
Active Member
Did you ever try using Smooth-On 305? I'm going to the store today to buy some and try it out. I think the Longer pot life might help. I'm curious if moving it around actually does anything since it isn't really being used in a mold where you pour it in to fill in all the gaps.
OPTIMUS124
New Member
Really great videos! I am in the process of building a MK VII using Darkside's files. I do have a few imperfections in the seams. So once you seal it with PVA, is the rotocast resin the only thing to use prior to some sort of body filler? I've combed through the thread and seen this Mod Podge stuff as well. Trying to figure out what options I have for filling the seams and making it more rigid.
Cal
Well-Known Member
I tried this method. I didn't have as much success as others do, but I think it's all in the size of the pieces. I have quick setting 321 so you basically have to mix and apply 1 even coat and leave it alone. I thnk i'm seeing people try to apply more than 1 coat at a time and it gets rid of that glass finish look.
7sinzz
Well-Known Member
As jrpage says, the movement is required to stop it from pooling.
My thoughts on 305 are as follows. The movement is required to stop it from pooling as mentioned. With 305 you are given more time to paint it on, therefore it will be pooling in places while your still applying it. I'm happy with just using 20ml of 65d at the moment, but I certainly would not advise using anymore as you will just apply it thicker and end up with nasty pools and runs. My chest piece isn't perfect by any means but it's only the second time I've tried and I'm convinced I have a satisfactory method. Excuse the bristles. Bloody things are a nightmare.
BaseZero
Active Member
Chest looks great so far! If you get a second, check my thread and you'll see the results I'm getting with the Smooth-On 65D. Looks even better in person. The next pieces will be smoother since I'll take a little more time to sand before priming, but overall, I think it looks great.
7sinzz
Well-Known Member
That shin looks stunning!!!! Great job there bud!!!! I'm using nightfire red for my build but that cherry looks really nice! I would like to offer you a tip that I used on my first build: build an extra tier in the abs and sides section. I know it's not accurate but it stops the abs from slipping out from under the chest during movement. Check the picture of my 1st build a couple of pages back in this thread and u can just about see my 5th tier poking out. I decided to do this as I'd seen so many builds that kept popping out when people raise their arms up. Ill probably do the same with this mk7.
BaseZero
Active Member
Thanks! Yeah, my abs will be a little short due to having a long torso. I came up with a method to attach the neck plate, abs and cod in one piece. Haven't executed it yet, but will post it in my thread when I do. BTW, I couldn't find your build. Where is it?
endo500
Active Member
So I have been using 305 for my new project and I must say it is far superior to 65D. The longer pot life allows you to make larger batches so you can cover larger pieces in one round.
This is a bonus because you don't have to worry about leveling issues from mixing multiple batches to cover a section. Plus it saves you time and money since fewer brushes are needed to cover a piece. Also it doesn't for the lack of a better word "expand" as much as 65D. Which tends to ruin small details on pieces. And with the extra time you can check for loose brush bristles and spots missed. So i would advise anyone interested in this method to try Smooth-On 305 instead of 65D/
As a side note I used mod podge instead of regular pva glue. So I don't know if this had any effect on the over all process, but it works great as a sealant and needs less layers than PVA glue.
This is a bonus because you don't have to worry about leveling issues from mixing multiple batches to cover a section. Plus it saves you time and money since fewer brushes are needed to cover a piece. Also it doesn't for the lack of a better word "expand" as much as 65D. Which tends to ruin small details on pieces. And with the extra time you can check for loose brush bristles and spots missed. So i would advise anyone interested in this method to try Smooth-On 305 instead of 65D/
As a side note I used mod podge instead of regular pva glue. So I don't know if this had any effect on the over all process, but it works great as a sealant and needs less layers than PVA glue.
jeffreygullett
Well-Known Member
Interesting. I'm using the 65D right now. I bought a gallon so I'm not switching now. But I also did an experiment switching to spray Mod Podge and found it works just as well and it's a lot faster and easier to work with. PLus I don't have to worry about any drips or pooling of the PVA glue.
endo500
Active Member
7Sinzz I don't have many progress pictures because I was racing to finish a costume for New York Comic Con last weekend. But I do plan to do a tutorial based on my findings. I'm just trying to decide if i want to write it up or make a youtube video. However here are some pictures of my finished costume using 305. All the red parts are foam covered in 305.
XRobots
Well-Known Member
Looks like a good job - smooth and shiny.
Blackwindpep87
Member
So guys here is my cyborg armor I made for SDCC using this method. Honestly after making a full set of armor out of it I don't know if 65D is the best material for the plastic coating. And before people get ready to flame-on, I think xrobots is onto a great idea on how to get foam to look a lot better . I just think the 65D might not be the best plastic resin.
Here are a few reasons why
1) The cure time is so fast that it makes it really heard to cover larger pieces. And even if you work in small batches it still creates an unevenness over the entire piece. That requires a lot of extra work to try and get even with body filler.
2) I tried both methods of adding another layer before it fully cures (extreme loss of details and sometimes creates an odd texture) and sanding it before adding another layer. And both had flaking problems and neither produced the results i really wanted.
now i'm sure someone is getting ready to say they had it work with no problems. Whichi I'm sure is possible I just don't think this is the best medium for less experienced people or those that don't love sanding and remaking parts.
Like i said before i think x-robots has a great idea and i'm going to try to find another plastic resin to coat the foam with.
iwere you using the cream hardener along with the 65d cause if you were your cuting the curing time in half as your using two different hardening agents. so if your usign 65D along with bondo and its hardener then thats a no go just mix up a small batch of 65d and add in the bondo mix up with no cream hardener and you should be good before it cures in like 15 min
