How to plastic coat foam costume pieces
- Thread starter XRobots
- Start date
XRobots
Well-Known Member
The bristles always fall out of new brushes, generally you want to work the brush on a brick etc to get the loose ones out before using it. The odd one fell out as far as I can remember, but nothing excessive.
XRobots
Well-Known Member
You can till see the foam seam lines quite well... the casting resin is much thicker so it actually makes a plastic shell and fills all the gaps in.
endo500
Active Member
So I resolved my curing problem I was not mixing it enough. However the current problem i have with it is the layer it up to become smoother layers. I'm going to try the method xrobots mentioned of adding another layer before it fully cures. However I don't understand how you were able to sand after the first layer if you are adding additional layers before it fully cures.
XRobots
Well-Known Member
I've only done this process once for the video, and that piece is still fine.
Deelite
Active Member
For PVA, would this be good?:
PVA Drywall 2-Gal. Latex White Interior Primer-GL1050-1200 02 at The Home Depot
For drywall painting.
PVA Drywall 2-Gal. Latex White Interior Primer-GL1050-1200 02 at The Home Depot
For drywall painting.
Not sure if that would do the same thing, as the PVA everyone is using is a glue, not a paint
I found a local retailer that sells Smooth On products and I am going to give this a try. I've tried the Plastidip, but it doesn't cover my mistakes well (and I've got quite a few), plus I like the finish this has when done. At what point during the curing process should I look to add the next layer? Should I immediatley apply the next layer, or wait until it begins to whiten? Is there a timeframe?
Deelite
Active Member
Figured it out, PVA equivalents:
Sobo Tacky Glue, Aleen's Tacky Glue would be a crafter's equivalent (they do sell in gallon sizes, but you can only mail order. most craft shops do not carry the larger sizes)
Wood Glue is also an equivalent
MrRoboto
Well-Known Member
Or Elmer's white glue here in the US. The bigger art stores sell that in gallons.
The "peeling" effect is what happens when layers don't stick to each other from one round to the next (I had the same issue when I tried this after watching the video, but before reading this thread). You either need to get the next layer on before the previous cures, or let it sit, and sand the previous layer. If you do that, the layers won't do that weird peeling/skinning thing.
The "peeling" effect is what happens when layers don't stick to each other from one round to the next (I had the same issue when I tried this after watching the video, but before reading this thread). You either need to get the next layer on before the previous cures, or let it sit, and sand the previous layer. If you do that, the layers won't do that weird peeling/skinning thing.
Is there a wait period, though, before applying the next coat? Once I have the first coat on, can I start right with the next coat or should I wait until it starts to turn white?
Also, just curious, can you put any kind of body filler or other finishing material on this should you want to add more detail or fix depth/warping mistakes?
Also, just curious, can you put any kind of body filler or other finishing material on this should you want to add more detail or fix depth/warping mistakes?
XRobots
Well-Known Member
I'd say you should wait for it to go off a little before applying the next coat - basically until it's not runny any more, otherwise you'll end up with run marks.
Yes you could use body filler - the same as if you were detailing a piece of plastic. I use standard car body filler on all my solid cast 65D pieces.
Steampunch
New Member
Found a supplier for resins in Australia but they don't stock smoothcast. I have been trying a product they have called Rotothane. It's a rotocast polyurothane like 65d so you get similar results.
Link to site:
Home Page
Rotothane link:
Rotothane 950gm at Barnes Products Pty Ltd
Seems cheaper than getting smoothcast shipped to me anyway. Hope this was helpful
Dardger
Member
Get tut and idea. :thumbsup
Few tips about 65D though. It likes to delaminate if you leave it between coats too long. I woul do all or most of your coats in a row then scuff and a final coat. You can also use a heatgun or hairdrier once your done painting the resin on to level it a little better and get rid of any little bubbles that have formed from the brush action.
Just wanted to add those to help you out a bit since it looks like a nice easy quick process that should help a ton of people. Oh and 65D is perfect since it is so very flexible compared to other casting resins.
Again great job and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the heads up, Finhead. I'm building a foam suit and ordered 65D, these tips will be helpful. And James, thanks so much for the idea. It's going to make my foam suit look awesome.
Christopher
Member
I wasn't really involved, but thanks for the link to the aus supplier of rotothane. I think I'll give it a go too!
Christopher
Member
For those of us making N7 armor, has anyone tried using this on the top pattern side of the foam? Im not sure how well it will adhere to it, or whether it would fill in the pattern which would defeat the purpose of using it in the first place.
