Fiberglass resin or Epoxy resin molds are great, no discounting that and they allow for a much higher number of crisp pulls, but as stated, brushing in and letting dry between layers can take days to reach the desired thickness.
The reason the industry uses these type of molds is to create a perfect latex skin on something before running foam latex behind it. That involves stippling in a layer that is super thin but guarantees you a pimple or pock free skin, never see or heard of it being done layer after layer for production pieces.
Time and Money are big factors in fiberglass and epoxy, and to assure your best possible level of detail pickup, you should always use gelcoat, which adds to the expense further.
You just can't beat stone! Its cheap, its forgiving, its easy, and you can slush in it and walk away for a couple hours, come back, pour out your latex, and let it dry, pull your mask and your ready to trim and paint, you didn't have to spend an entire day brush, heatgunning and breathing that crap .
In reference to MadMaskmaker, her sculpt was not a full head and face, so that leaves so much more room for molding than full head does. Plus I'm guessing Steve who is a god of mask masking, may have given her some good advice to follow.
The main reason she could have gone with resin molds is the option to run silicone, which would have given her piece thinner edges and a translucency that would have helped bring her piece to life.
That is the only reason I would suggest resin molds for your creature, silicone could bring it some options that latex does not, but its unnecessary, expensive and since time is of the essence for you on this, everything you need can be accomplished with stone molds and an amazing paint job.
Side note, one thing the resin molds with brushed latex does give you is less shrinkage of the latex and a little stronger crosshatching of the fibers, and the only time that could matter is in a piece like a batman cowl or facial prosthetic that will see lots of stress and reuse.
My vote is the entire face up to about the edge of the jawline/ear where the undercut begins for the first half of the mold, a second piece for the rest of the top of the head, then split the left and right sides behind the ears to the tip of the crown. This keeps the undercuts working for you and though it may add a seam or two extra to clean up, will yield you the best possible places to have those seams, so you can burnish them down or fill them in with cabopatch.
Best of Luck!! Get on it though, July is comming up fast!