Help with first stromtrooper helmet

diech6

New Member
Hi guys i`ve been looking around a lot so i made my first try on a stormtrooper helmet using this thread as a guide http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=122443 and cowboy's pep. Im kinda disappointed on how it turned out, it just dosen't look right and seems kinda flat, can't figure out what should i do before resin and bondo :cry (i didn't glue the pieces that have tape just in case any fixes)
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if you dont want to start over and do a cleaner job, you can cut a section at a time out and reposition it with scratch cardstock as an extension or shim back in place until it looks right. thats how i resize peps if they turn out too big or small. the back you dont really need to worry about and the flat dome can be raised up or bondo'd to shape, id probably start anew on the whole face.
 
Hi Diech6, it looks like the structure is starting to feel the strain of its own weight.

I think when building the pep model its more important to get the overall mass shape roughly correct. Forget all the little intricate parts. Frown, eye tears etc. They weaken the whole structure. When you come to add fibreglass/bondo all the small details are lost anyway as its messy stuff. Its easier to do the details once we can actually hold a stable form.

You could get some spare card, cut and glue strips over areas that should line up. Looking at the side photo the bridge of the nose line should continue over the frown and onto the lower part. Plus it will add some overall strength back into the form.

The pep method of building has to be abused! It can give you so many problems if you use pep model building as intended.
 
Hello terra! i've been fixing some parts like you guys said to get it more looking like yours. Should i push in the nose part? I also tried to puff out the cheek tubes since mine seem smaller. Is the mouth part okay? i'm getting a feeling there's just something there that's dosen't look right. Oh and i just found out that i was supposed to do valley and mountain folds. Do they drastically affect the over all shape? i'm such a noob at this D:[h=3][/h]


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I'm not sure if you did this, but in my experience, you need to score every single fold line, even if the "fold" will be relatively flat. It really allows the paper to shape itself however it needs to according to the glued seams. Plus it's easier to shape it later once it's all together. I use a blue or red fine ball point pen and a ruler. That way it's easy to see where I've missed and it differentiates between the folds and cuts. Don't use black! ;)

Also, don't be afraid to add internal support and bracing with card. You can even use sticks inside if you need to bump out the shape (on the face, for instance). Once you harden it you'll remove the internal bracing. Remember that nobody will ever see the inside so you can do whatever you want. the outside shape is what you need to get right.

I've also had paper models (helmets most especially) look like poo until every single piece is in place and it pulls it all together. You may find that you'll have to add the detail pieces such as lenses just to help it come into shape, and then cut them out later. I've never done a Stormtrooper so I can only speak generally.

-Rog
 
I'm not sure if you did this, but in my experience, you need to score every single fold line, even if the "fold" will be relatively flat. It really allows the paper to shape itself however it needs to according to the glued seams. Plus it's easier to shape it later once it's all together. I use a blue or red fine ball point pen and a ruler. That way it's easy to see where I've missed and it differentiates between the folds and cuts. Don't use black! ;)

Also, don't be afraid to add internal support and bracing with card. You can even use sticks inside if you need to bump out the shape (on the face, for instance). Once you harden it you'll remove the internal bracing. Remember that nobody will ever see the inside so you can do whatever you want. the outside shape is what you need to get right.

I've also had paper models (helmets most especially) look like poo until every single piece is in place and it pulls it all together. You may find that you'll have to add the detail pieces such as lenses just to help it come into shape, and then cut them out later. I've never done a Stormtrooper so I can only speak generally.

-Rog
Oh thank you! I didn't know that,! When you say card do you mean cardboard or hard paper? (These things have different names where i live) I thought about the internal support but i can't figure out exactly where should i do it.
 
I'm not sure if you did this, but in my experience, you need to score every single fold line, even if the "fold" will be relatively flat. It really allows the paper to shape itself however it needs to according to the glued seams. Plus it's easier to shape it later once it's all together. I use a blue or red fine ball point pen and a ruler. That way it's easy to see where I've missed and it differentiates between the folds and cuts. Don't use black! ;)

Also, don't be afraid to add internal support and bracing with card. You can even use sticks inside if you need to bump out the shape (on the face, for instance). Once you harden it you'll remove the internal bracing. Remember that nobody will ever see the inside so you can do whatever you want. the outside shape is what you need to get right.

I've also had paper models (helmets most especially) look like poo until every single piece is in place and it pulls it all together. You may find that you'll have to add the detail pieces such as lenses just to help it come into shape, and then cut them out later. I've never done a Stormtrooper so I can only speak generally.

-Rog
Oh thank you! I didn't know about scoring. When you say card, do you mean hard paper or cardboard?(These have different names where i'm from) I thought about adding internal support but i just can't figure exactly where should i do it.
 
Honestly, you can use whatever you want since it can be removed later... But generally speaking, I use cereal box type cardboard, especially to reinforce the backs of flat areas, and it's nice because it can still be curved and bent. You can easily form it into rods also.

If you know a specific shape that a helmet needs to conform to then it can be useful to cut that shape out of corrugated cardboard and pop it in. On the Stormtrooper helmet I can see that around the circumference where the top dome meets the rest (at the brow) is one of those areas you might be able to do that. Another common area to do that is the very bottom where the opening for your head is. Some helmet files come with a shape for that but some don't.

-Rog
 
Its looking much better!

You can always change the shape a little down the line. Once you have a few layers of bondo on and sanded its easy to add/remove some mass to areas that look a little flat/fat or skinny.

I prefer perfecting (getting it where i'm happy with it) at a later stage as perfectly detailed pepakura models get lost under all the messy resin and bondo.
 
Oh yeah, you definitely don't need to have every detail perfect. But the closer your paper shape is to being right the less filler you'll have to use. More filler just means more sanding, which is really easy to get tired of.

-Rog
 
If you're happy with the shape, then yes. But first I would highly recommend watching this video series:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKcIOBPQ-5E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkwUJIbyZ0w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPvCR2osKT8

Those are the three that start from where you are. You can watch more, but after that it's more Iron Man specific. Take special note of how he uses skim coats of filler only. These goofballs that slather on an inch of the stuff just make me shake my head. The more you gob on the more you'll end up wasting as dust when you sand it back off. Plus at that point you might as well have just poured a solid block of filler and carved the helmet out with a chisel.

-Rog
 
Hey I know it's been a while since this thread was active but terra, I really liked your stormtrooper helmet build and I'm thinking of doing one myself. How much body filler do you think I will need? I can either buy 250ml of p.38 or 600ml. I probably won't use body filler after this project.
 
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