HalloweenCostumes.com "Back to the Future 2 Light Up Shoes"

[MrSouthpaw]

bummer I was hoping for it to be noticeable.

This was never going to be my permanent solution to the strap, I'm getting an electronic kit.

I was curious about this as a temporary solution, and it was only $10. I can use everything else I bought to make normal no-stitch straps. The paint is pretty neat by itself and I'm sure I can come up with something else to do with it.

How does this look with the lights on? Show us some pics.

The strap is still drying, so here's the stuff in the bottle.

Uncharged:


Charged:

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Got busy for a bit there. So I'm back to share a new pic. I got a crude mockup of the strap ready, I messed up the window orientation but you get the idea.



The uneven glow is due to difference in the paint thickness. If I cared to use more paint on this prototype I could make it glow much more even. The paint itself, it was like painting with hand cream or something, very thick, and does not self-level.

It also dries to a gritty texture that is capable of removing the toner from the Nike label. Someone else attempting this would probably want to try some kind of protective layer like another clear transparency between the glow paint and the toner.

The paint is flexible and exhibited no cracking even bent into a U-shape.

And one final note.
It's time to make a well-built no-stitch strap because......

I got my Mags.

 

[ARKM]

Your Nike logo in the strap is upside down.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Your Nike logo in the strap is upside down.

Yeah, I said as much in the first paragraph of that post.

It's just a demonstrator for the glow-paint in any case.

 

[ARKM]

Not too shabby for glow paint. Looks nice in the pics.

 

[airair]

Got busy for a bit there. So I'm back to share a new pic. I got a crude mockup of the strap ready, I messed up the window orientation but you get the idea.

View attachment 416428

The uneven glow is due to difference in the paint thickness. If I cared to use more paint on this prototype I could make it glow much more even. The paint itself, it was like painting with hand cream or something, very thick, and does not self-level.

It also dries to a gritty texture that is capable of removing the toner from the Nike label. Someone else attempting this would probably want to try some kind of protective layer like another clear transparency between the glow paint and the toner.

The paint is flexible and exhibited no cracking even bent into a U-shape.

And one final note.
It's time to make a well-built no-stitch strap because......

I got my Mags.

View attachment 416429

Very nice.
is this the ultra blue water based glow in dark paint?
or the solvent based one?

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Very nice.
is this the ultra blue water based glow in dark paint?
or the solvent based one?

Water-based paint.

 

[airair]

Water-based paint.

It looks pretty good.

 

[Jedifyfe]

I'm curious as to why you guys want glow in the dark straps? Why not just get Markpoons EL Kit?

 

[MrSouthpaw]

I'm curious as to why you guys want glow in the dark straps? Why not just get Markpoons EL Kit?

I stated several times in several posts that this is just a demonstrator/mockup. I had to buy all the other stuff for no-stitch straps no matter what, so spending an extra $10 to mess around with some paint was worth the time.

 

[cavx]

I'm curious as to why you guys want glow in the dark straps? Why not just get Markpoons EL Kit?

If it works, then it should not be dismissed. I think it may be a good alternative to an electronic setup.

 

[Catfish45]

I think it's great that people are still trying different ways of modding these shoes. I have a pair of v2s I've slightly modified by installing a larger battery and a new switch in the upper while keeping the stock lighting. I never wrote about it because I figured all I'd hear is that the electronics were crap and I was wasting my time. Well it's been almost 8 months w/o a hiccup wearing these every weekend and occasionally on the weekdays.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

If it works, then it should not be dismissed. I think it may be a good alternative to an electronic setup.

Within the limits of glow-paint, it works excellently.

I think it's great that people are still trying different ways of modding these shoes. I have a pair of v2s I've slightly modified by installing a larger battery and a new switch in the upper while keeping the stock lighting. I never wrote about it because I figured all I'd hear is that the electronics were crap and I was wasting my time. Well it's been almost 8 months w/o a hiccup wearing these every weekend and occasionally on the weekdays.

I'm thinking about cost-effective. These HC's only cost $100, so I don't want to spend too much money upgrading them.

The glow paint works well for a low cost solution to lighting, within limits, but I still want to try electronics. I think I can get the strap lit-up for a thrifty price.

 

[aces3323]

Was this a steam method toe slim or did you trim it from the bottom and adhere it back together? Good job thus far

 

[aces3323]

Sorry I just saw the answer to my question so disregard it please :facepalm

 

[MrSouthpaw]

So I was thinking about the buckle on these HC mags.

I will probably need to modify so I can fit some electronics. But I don't want to destroy or mess up my originals, I also don't want to pay $25 a buckle on Shapeways. A pair would run literally half the price of the shoes, and the point of the HC mags is keeping costs down. Otherwise I'd have just bought the V2 version.

Is it considered "recasting" if I wanted to make a copy of this factory produced buckle for myself, for my own personal use?

And of course, if that can be talked about here I was wondering if anyone might be able to advise me on an inexpensive way to do it.

 

[Jedifyfe]

Personally I don't think its a big deal to recast the ankle buckle for your use or even to sell it. It's a part of the shoe and not a big deal anyway. Just my thoughts.

 

[airair]

So I was thinking about the buckle on these HC mags.

I will probably need to modify so I can fit some electronics. But I don't want to destroy or mess up my originals, I also don't want to pay $25 a buckle on Shapeways. A pair would run literally half the price of the shoes, and the point of the HC mags is keeping costs down. Otherwise I'd have just bought the V2 version.

Is it considered "recasting" if I wanted to make a copy of this factory produced buckle for myself, for my own personal use?

And of course, if that can be talked about here I was wondering if anyone might be able to advise me on an inexpensive way to do it.

Is perfectly fine to make your own cast of it. I doubt Nike or anyone else cares!
you've seen how much they care about fakes by the amount of v2's which have flooded the market, they don't really care at all.
It will probably cost you more than $25 to make a mould and recast of it anyway. Silicone is a bit costly as is the rubber casting materials, just depends on how much you need.
A small amount of both should be ok to cast a pair i reckon.

The easiest way is silicone putty maybe, and then pour in some either liquid plastic resin or liquid polyurethane rubber with a fairly reasonable shore hardness like 40 or 50.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Personally I don't think its a big deal to recast the ankle buckle for your use or even to sell it. It's a part of the shoe and not a big deal anyway. Just my thoughts.

Thanks, JF. My usage is personal, I don't even have a premium account so no selling anything at this time. I just don't want to get banned for talking about how to copy it. I actually enjoy these forums, very drama-free and full of helpful people. I wouldn't want to get kicked.

Is perfectly fine to make your own cast of it. I doubt Nike or anyone else cares!
you've seen how much they care about fakes by the amount of v2's which have flooded the market, they don't really care at all.
It will probably cost you more than $25 to make a mould and recast of it anyway. Silicone is a bit costly as is the rubber casting materials, just depends on how much you need.
A small amount of both should be ok to cast a pair i reckon.

The easiest way is silicone putty maybe, and then pour in some either liquid plastic resin or liquid polyurethane rubber with a fairly reasonable shore hardness like 40 or 50.

I would rather pay the money to molds and material than a single pair of buckles which are $25 per buckle if I read the page right. At least I can learn how to mold and transfer the mold-making skills/experience to other objects. Especially when I buy a 3D printer.

I've been looking at videos all night on molding/casting. The buckle has two things that the objects I saw putty-molded did not. It is curved, as opposed to flat or nearly so, and it has openings...the strap slits. I gotta dig in some more and see if anyone has a video about how to deal with those things.

I'll look into those casting materials too. The HC buckle is not rigid, it is slightly flexible so whichever would be more appropriate.

 

[airair]

Thanks, JF. My usage is personal, I don't even have a premium account so no selling anything at this time. I just don't want to get banned for talking about how to copy it. I actually enjoy these forums, very drama-free and full of helpful people. I wouldn't want to get kicked.



I would rather pay the money to molds and material than a single pair of buckles which are $25 per buckle if I read the page right. At least I can learn how to mold and transfer the mold-making skills/experience to other objects. Especially when I buy a 3D printer.

I've been looking at videos all night on molding/casting. The buckle has two things that the objects I saw putty-molded did not. It is curved, as opposed to flat or nearly so, and it has openings...the strap slits. I gotta dig in some more and see if anyone has a video about how to deal with those things.

I'll look into those casting materials too. The HC buckle is not rigid, it is slightly flexible so whichever would be more appropriate.

You will need a 2 part mold to make life easier.
For the strap slits, you can simply block one side out using a thin layer of tape or something. Doesn't have to be thick, just block out from one side.

When the casting comes out of the mould, you can simply cut that slit out, since it would be thin it would be very easy.

I made my own buckle from scratch and did a 2 part mold, came out pretty well, but i will be going back and modifying it further.