Getting those perfect lines

minez01

New Member
Right, so I'm fairly new to the whole prop-making thing, though I have a habit of building most of the things I like to use rather than buying them.

Anyway, what I still seem to struggle with (after multiple attempts using a variety of tools) is cutting straight lines (or grooves, if you want to call them that) into props. Some of the methods I've tried so far:

- Small rotary tool . I use a cutting disk, mask off the surface with gaps for the lines I intend to cut (to try and keep them straight) and then cut the lines slowly and carefully. Issues with this approach are that the lines are still not perfectly straight, and depth control is also an issue (note that I don't have a dremel - do these have cutting disks with depth control?)

- Scoring the material with a knife or sharp object, then using files or more knives. I've read about this also, but I seem to have difficulty scoring plastic/metal with a nice straight line, which means the end product is not too good anyway. Plus it seems to take me ages - can anyone recommend any better tools for this?

- Using small files to file into the material. I have tried this briefly, but my file was too large and I have more on order.

My most used method is the rotary tool method, but I still can't seem to get lines and grooves to be perfect (especially on curved surfaces, such as helmets or armour pieces). Has anyone got a better method for plastic casts or metals? Or is this simply a case of practice makes perfect, and I should just keep reworking the lines until I get them looking clean and sharp? To be honest the lines I have aren't too bad, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I want to get them really sharp before moving on...
 
I use the scoring method which was a struggle at first, but practice makes perfect, or at least a little better.:lol:lol I usually draw a line with a pencil, or a sharpie, score it with an Xacto knife, then I use a needle file and or something like a hacksaw blade. I actually use a hobby saw, but a hacksaw blade is a cheap alternative. Check out some of the Iron Man build posts from Surreal Studios, That guy makes some clean freakin lines ! I hope that helps, welcome to the RPF and good luck !
 
You might try a linoleum block cutting gouge. I believe the brand name is speed ball and it is usually a red handle similar to an exacto knife with a hollow handle and interchangable gouge tips. The small v-gouge is perfect for small detail lines in everything from styrene to mdf. Takes a little practice to get even depth of cut but not too hard.. should cost less than about $10 for a starter kit. Hope this helps.
 
My favourite way is to take a piece of .40 styrene, lay the factory edge where you want to carve the line, then use the styrene as a guide to carve away with a small hobby saw. Works for me every time.
 
Flexible steel ruler/straight edge, tape, some form of scribing tool, and patience.

I suck at panel lines because you can't buy one of those at a store.
 
Embossing tape
300px-Dymo_output.jpg

Is a great tool to use when needing straight lines on rounded surfaces. You use it as a ruler guide for scribing and when you finished you take it away.
 
Right, thanks for all your help guys, very informative. It's good to know I'm not doing it completely wrong, just need to spend more hours shaping and fixing the lines, which I'm happy to do.

Contec, is that embossing tape fairly tough stuff? One issue I had with masking tape was that the rotary cutting tool simply cuts through it, heavy duty tape would be useful to keep the edges of the disc in the right line...
 
Embossing tape is quite thick, and very tough! It works fantastic, the only trouble I've had is the glue on the back might stick a bit too well to some puttys, but most of the time it works great!
 
I never thought of using embossing tape, but I think I might give this method a go on my next project, thanks!
 
Contec, is that embossing tape fairly tough stuff? One issue I had with masking tape was that the rotary cutting tool simply cuts through it, heavy duty tape would be useful to keep the edges of the disc in the right line...

Using Embossing tape is and old trick from making models. I don't know how well it would work with rotary tools but it works great when scribing for hand.
 
My Terminator Endoskeleton needed a lot of scribe work and I used one of these:
Search: Engineers Scriber Double Ended, Hardened Steel, Scribing, Scribe Tool
Hope it helps!
 
I'm a little different. I like to cut the lines as I go. For this method, a scroll saw and a steady hand is absolutely mandatory.

DSCN0520.jpg


The results are always purdy, and are of uniform depth due ot the lamination process.

DSCN0678.jpg
 
if your just needing strait lines, mount the dremel to a drawer slide( one of the ones with ball bearings) and position the cutting wheel so it will just go deep enough in the material to cut the grove.
 
if your just needing strait lines, mount the dremel to a drawer slide( one of the ones with ball bearings) and position the cutting wheel so it will just go deep enough in the material to cut the grove.

I second that idea. I think i have a old track in the garage that i might try making into a add-on jig. Im into woodworking as a past time and dig new jig ideas like this.
 
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