Fully 3D Printed Functional MK 42 !! :0

[quovadis0920]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

Not sure if you have seen this or not but is this the same design for the bolts and bending you're using for the boot/shin?

 

[JCpioneer]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

Not sure if you have seen this or not but is this the same design for the bolts and bending you're using for the boot/shin?

View attachment 197046

I have seen this but I didn't use it for any inspiration on the joints for this boot. I basically designed this boot with natural walking movement and degrees in mind.

 

[JCpioneer]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

I just cleaned up the top of the calf and taped it on there! Its looking like a big boot for sure, it is almost 17" tall and the calf is over 5" wide.

 

[JCpioneer]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

Three weeks of printing and one day of assembly! The Iron Man MK 42 boot is just about finished with the joints now! I went to the hardware store and picked out some supplies, then drilled some holes and fitted the boot up with the necessary mechanics (minus the electronic locking at the top). I also reinforced the pivot arms inside by cutting out some sheet metal and screwing it into the back of the shin plate. After all was just about done, I realized I was short one bolt for the calf plate (lol) but I will pick that up next time I'm out getting the stuff for the inside cushioning.


So there are round bolts outside for now, but I want to sink them in with flat heads soon.


Ah its a beaut already!


You can see where I welded all the pieces of the calf today. It will need some love still.


I was happy with how the plates matched up almost perfectly! Remember, there is a lip on the inside as well, which made it crucial to be right on.


Here the toe is pivoted to its stopping point.


Before the plates shift on the slider axis...


After the plates shift (some of the way) forward on the slider axis.



Taking off the calf plate to see the inner workings!


The heel plate at its max pivot back.


Pulling back the heel you can see the main joint and the springs, as they are screwed into the walls of the shoe and other plates.




I love the detail in the tread and holding it like this is so cool to imagine the led panel on the bottom yet to come.


Yes, I am a skinny dude, time to work out and fill the armor with some muscle


One step closer to the real stark industries...

 

[msleeper]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

Photos are cool, but movement means nothing without video!

 

[JCpioneer]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

Photos are cool, but movement means nothing without video!

If you take a look up a ways, my little bro did a vine of it before I put the hinges on. So you can see the range of motion.

https://vine.co/v/blJiXbzqgwB?fb_ac...462295662":"vine-app:post"}&action_ref_map=[]

 

[msleeper]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

That... is pretty sexy.

 

[dlowrider]

nice work, really, but I have a question, do you have taken into account the scales and dimensions proportional whole armor, for the simple fact that I imagine you got all the design in 3d done with the measurements of your body, you must add this proportion, which make the design aesthetic and proportional, I'm on a similar topic, I'm ready to print many parts, but I'm at 60% and even design that's my dilemma, I hope you help this concern, congratulations for now it seems a nice project.

 

[Talaaya]

Re: Iron Man MK 42 Prototype 3D printing project!

Yes, I am not yet well versed in Max but I'm trying to figure out how to smooth without touching my hard edges. I am really an animator but just an intermediate level sculptor in Maya. It is annoying to not know all the tricks of hard surface modeling just yet. I'm considering doing a few more courses online for it.

I'm also 3d printing a suit of armor. Here's my technique for smoothing a model:

- Model low poly version in Maya
- Select all the hard edges like this:

- Display > Polygons > Hard Edges - shows only hard edges, making it much easier to see if you have the right edges hard​

- Select > Select Using Constraints...​

- Constrain: > Current and Next (radio button) - then select your object in edge mode (Properties will now become available in the Select Using Constraints window)​

- Properties > Smoothing > Hard (radio button)​

- drag select over your entire model and only the hard edges will be selected​

- (be sure to turn the Constrain option back to Nothing when you're done so you can select soft edges again)​

- Edit Mesh > Crease Tool - middle mouse drag to the right to take the value all the way to 10
- (with Zbrush and Zbrush's GoZ installed) send the model to Zbrush via GoZ (preserves size and positioning whereas exporting generally does not)
- Tool > Geometry > Divide - several times until the model is smooth enough
- Tool > Geometry > Del Lower - if you don't do this it will send back the lowest division of the model instead of the highest one
- GoZ back to Maya
- Export as .fbx (may have to turn on the plugin)

Then I use my printer's software to import the .fbx, which my printer's software accepts. I'm not sure what file type you need, but if you need .stl, I believe there's a plugin for Zbrush that exports .stl.

This method takes the model from this:

To this!

If you need any other tips I'm more than happy to help anyone!

 

[celtic touch]

That is just the coolest thing

 

[bak9799]

This is great work! I am just starting to get the feel for 3d modeling with sketch up. Hopefully one day I will be able to tackle max, blender or cinema 4d.

 

[Onephattsi2]

this is very impressive.... I am definitely gong to keep an eye on this build...

My question is what are you going to use for a sole on the bottom of the boot? I have experimented with a few different things to make the boots have some traction, with no real solutions that I have been happy with... But with nothing on it, it makes the boots extremely slippery when walking..

Sent from my HTC One X

 

[quovadis0920]

Oh boy I wish I had a 3d printer! That's way too cool!

 

[typewriter]

thats just too pretty.....

 

[Capt TJ]

I'm just finishing up my research on which 3D printer to buy, and should be making the purcahse this weekend. I'm working on a 3D printed War Machine and IM Mark VI.

Is the bottom of your boot strong enough to walk around in? Did your print the treads solid, or are they hollow?

Great job!:thumbsup

 

[Biskt]

Buying my 3D printer this weekend too Excellent progress by the way, We spoke Briefly on CGhub, both after the same files remember? Did you end up modelling these yourself or are they someone else's work? The range of movement also looks superb!

 

[JCpioneer]

nice work, really, but I have a question, do you have taken into account the scales and dimensions proportional whole armor, for the simple fact that I imagine you got all the design in 3d done with the measurements of your body, you must add this proportion, which make the design aesthetic and proportional, I'm on a similar topic, I'm ready to print many parts, but I'm at 60% and even design that's my dilemma, I hope you help this concern, congratulations for now it seems a nice project.

Hey thanks lowrider, it is a legitimate concern to have everything in proportion to the whole armor. This boot is probably going to be a tester for its functionality and learning for me, until my modeling can reach perfection. I want to model the whole suit and get it nice and smooth. Then I will go in and resize certain parts to accommodate my body dimensions. I am a tall and slender guy so it shouldn't be too hard to get it to fit me. The biggest concern here vs creating a generic pep project is that the joints have to be right on with my actual body joints.

I'm also 3d printing a suit of armor. Here's my technique for smoothing a model:

- Model low poly version in Maya
- Select all the hard edges like this:

- Display > Polygons > Hard Edges - shows only hard edges, making it much easier to see if you have the right edges hard​

- Select > Select Using Constraints...​

- Constrain: > Current and Next (radio button) - then select your object in edge mode (Properties will now become available in the Select Using Constraints window)​

- Properties > Smoothing > Hard (radio button)​

- drag select over your entire model and only the hard edges will be selected​

- (be sure to turn the Constrain option back to Nothing when you're done so you can select soft edges again)​

- Edit Mesh > Crease Tool - middle mouse drag to the right to take the value all the way to 10
- (with Zbrush and Zbrush's GoZ installed) send the model to Zbrush via GoZ (preserves size and positioning whereas exporting generally does not)
- Tool > Geometry > Divide - several times until the model is smooth enough
- Tool > Geometry > Del Lower - if you don't do this it will send back the lowest division of the model instead of the highest one
- GoZ back to Maya
- Export as .fbx (may have to turn on the plugin)

Then I use my printer's software to import the .fbx, which my printer's software accepts. I'm not sure what file type you need, but if you need .stl, I believe there's a plugin for Zbrush that exports .stl.

This method takes the model from this:

http://i.imgur.com/ojVixCZ.jpg

To this!

http://i.imgur.com/94lPL53.jpg

If you need any other tips I'm more than happy to help anyone!

Talaaya, this is awesome! I totally want to use this workflow! I can understand what is going on and never thought to use selection constraints to see the hard edges. So, can I get Zbrush for free or what is the cost for that program?

Thanks so much!

That is just the coolest thing

Thanks celtic, what are you building on this site?

This is great work! I am just starting to get the feel for 3d modeling with sketch up. Hopefully one day I will be able to tackle max, blender or cinema 4d.

Ok, well I have heard that Maya is still widely used or 3DS Max for more professional model making in the industry. Cinema 4D looks interesting because it is new but I don't know if that is the only one you would want to learn.

 

[JCpioneer]

this is very impressive.... I am definitely gong to keep an eye on this build...

My question is what are you going to use for a sole on the bottom of the boot? I have experimented with a few different things to make the boots have some traction, with no real solutions that I have been happy with... But with nothing on it, it makes the boots extremely slippery when walking..

Sent from my HTC One X

I had an idea for the sole of the boot which I will put in the next version of the boot. I am thinking of consulting my model making friend on what material to cast onto it for the bottom traction. For now, I want to run around in this thing and find out where it could break. I haven't created a video yet on that because I am a single post bolt short for securing one side of the calf. (of all things, one bolt short and a trip to a different hardware store because I bought all their stock) I know how to create such a thing though, in my head at least.

Oh boy I wish I had a 3d printer! That's way too cool!

Yes! When I started learning more about 3D printers last year I couldn't sleep at night from the excitement! No joke.

I'm just finishing up my research on which 3D printer to buy, and should be making the purcahse this weekend. I'm working on a 3D printed War Machine and IM Mark VI.

Is the bottom of your boot strong enough to walk around in? Did your print the treads solid, or are they hollow?

Great job!:thumbsup

Ah, ok. Well consult the "Make Magazine: Ultimate Guide to 3D printing" They had me come out to the company recently and I took home some of their great magazines on building things and electronics. The Afinia H-Series is a reliable printer and most important they have a one year WARRANTY with quick and thorough customer support. The guy on customer support sent me 3D parts files, links and tips on welding the pieces etc. Cool company. Yes, the bottom of the boot is pretty thick. It is about a half inch thick and plenty strong. I have found that creating a near solid fill is not necessary and will not only double your cost of plastic but double your suit weight as well. Plastic is not your armor, printing in Titanium one day will be. That is my dream!

Buying my 3D printer this weekend too Excellent progress by the way, We spoke Briefly on CGhub, both after the same files remember? Did you end up modelling these yourself or are they someone else's work? The range of movement also looks superb!

Yes, I will message you some on it! The modeling was completely done by me with every little finicky point. I drew up the ideas for the range of motion and where the joints would be, then modeled just as much outside as inside for the working of the boot.

 

[Talaaya]

Talaaya, this is awesome! I totally want to use this workflow! I can understand what is going on and never thought to use selection constraints to see the hard edges. So, can I get Zbrush for free or what is the cost for that program

Unfortunately Zbrush is not free and I don't believe there is a student or trial version.

There are other methods you can use to smooth your object, even within Maya, it's just more of a pain in the ass. If I didn't have Zbrush I'd go through and bevel all the hard edges and then use Maya's smooth. The reason I avoid this, however, is Maya's bevel tool adds excess geometry in weird places and you have to go pick through every single place where edges meet to make sure it's not screwed up. Perhaps someone else knows of another program that can be used to properly bevel an object.

 

[JCpioneer]

Talaaya, this is totally my dilemma. I tried increasing resolution on the edges via interactive split tool and then smoothing the entire piece, but that can still change overall shape of the pieces (which is bad when you need to get precise thicknesses and matching plates). I also tried just selecting some polys and smoothing those alone. This seems to work but it triangulates as you can see on my shin plate (not so professional or clean when printed). If you find any other solutions for smoothing within Maya let me know!