I have the opportunity to meet Christopher Lloyd after a screening of Back to the Future. So I decided to make a Flux Capacitor! I did not want to spend the $150 on the real electrical box so I built one out of wood, MDF board and other bits.
First up, to make anything you need a plan. I usually make a CAD drawing, but this time just a sketch.

I built a box out of poplar with some extra wood in the corners. I sanded them to 220 grit paper. The box is roughly 12"x10".

I used a socket to trace an arch and then used the belt sander on the corners.

Using a hole saw I cut out and glued together wood pieces to make the solenoids. These are 2" in diameter and 3/4" thick. Final thickness ended up being 1 1/8" after I sanded them down.

I bought a piece of flat acrylic from Amazon that was 6"x6"x3/4" for $7 and some acrylic rods off Ebay that are 1/2" outer diameter and 1/4" inner diameter and some acrylic balls. I cut them and sanded the parts with 220, 400, 600 grit paper. Then polished it on a wheel. You could use a dremel for this as most people don't have a buff wheel.



The top is made from 1/4" press board that is used for the bottom of drawers. I put some wood around the edge to give it thickness. Then I cut a window and plexiglass to go in it. The rubber trim was a pain to do and expensive. I bought it from https://www.mcmaster.com/ it is 7/8" I think and comes in a 5' length for $15.

I primed the solenoids and drilled holes to put the electrical connectors on. I bought those Terminal Binding posts off Amazon for $10 and had to remove the top portion (on the right side of the pic) and that went into the wood cylinders.

Then it was onto the ACCEL 3009ACC 7mm Super Stock spark plug wires. These were $40 and really expensive. They came in a set of 6, so you can make two Flux Capacitors if you want.

After polishing the acrylic blocks I taped the edges and sprayed them silver. They look sweet, but reduce the light from the LEDs on the final version. I would recommend not doing this even though it is movie accurate.

Attaching the solenoids together had me thinking for a few days. I needed to connect acrylic to itself and then to wood that was painted. Usually gluing to paint is only as strong as the paint. So I put a 1/4" acrylic rod piece inside the solenoid. I used plastic weld glue #16 (great name right) off Amazon to glue the acrylic flux tubes to the acrylic balls. I then glued the flux tube to the top of the flux block while at the same time the ball to the rod inside the wood wheel and at the same time epoxy to attach the flux block to the wheel. So three things glued at the same time and I held them for a few minutes while they set.

I used 1 1/2" plumbing pipe for the pipes on the outside. I painted them silver and then used epoxy to attach a wood disk to the top of the box then attach the pipe. The side pipe has a piece of pipe epoxied to the box and then the side piece can be removed. I will be putting a switch here. My father also had an old school Emboss Label maker. You can still buy these at Staples or Amazon, but from the reviews they are not as sturdy as the original ones.

This whole time I was working on this I spent the evenings working on the Arduino code. I had never programmed before and spent around 20 hours learning how to code. I used another guy's code and added a lot to it. I bought an Arduino starter kit for $35 off Amazon then went to the interwebz to learn.
https://create.arduino.cc/editor/xyster101/b07817c4-bae8-4c78-a75a-271cdacb2fe7/preview

Some features of my code include:
4 LEDS chasing
Motion sensor so it activates when you enter the room
3 codes to choose from: Time Travel chase where it speeds up, steady chase, and steady on.
Then it was onto hot glue the LEDs down. Two important things I learned from this:
Each LED needs it's' own resistor
Switches need a resistor when they are wired up or the Arduino board well get "false" on triggers.

When it is all assembled:

Video of it working:
https://youtu.be/dbO3RTeSHmQ
First up, to make anything you need a plan. I usually make a CAD drawing, but this time just a sketch.

I built a box out of poplar with some extra wood in the corners. I sanded them to 220 grit paper. The box is roughly 12"x10".

I used a socket to trace an arch and then used the belt sander on the corners.

Using a hole saw I cut out and glued together wood pieces to make the solenoids. These are 2" in diameter and 3/4" thick. Final thickness ended up being 1 1/8" after I sanded them down.

I bought a piece of flat acrylic from Amazon that was 6"x6"x3/4" for $7 and some acrylic rods off Ebay that are 1/2" outer diameter and 1/4" inner diameter and some acrylic balls. I cut them and sanded the parts with 220, 400, 600 grit paper. Then polished it on a wheel. You could use a dremel for this as most people don't have a buff wheel.



The top is made from 1/4" press board that is used for the bottom of drawers. I put some wood around the edge to give it thickness. Then I cut a window and plexiglass to go in it. The rubber trim was a pain to do and expensive. I bought it from https://www.mcmaster.com/ it is 7/8" I think and comes in a 5' length for $15.

I primed the solenoids and drilled holes to put the electrical connectors on. I bought those Terminal Binding posts off Amazon for $10 and had to remove the top portion (on the right side of the pic) and that went into the wood cylinders.

Then it was onto the ACCEL 3009ACC 7mm Super Stock spark plug wires. These were $40 and really expensive. They came in a set of 6, so you can make two Flux Capacitors if you want.

After polishing the acrylic blocks I taped the edges and sprayed them silver. They look sweet, but reduce the light from the LEDs on the final version. I would recommend not doing this even though it is movie accurate.

Attaching the solenoids together had me thinking for a few days. I needed to connect acrylic to itself and then to wood that was painted. Usually gluing to paint is only as strong as the paint. So I put a 1/4" acrylic rod piece inside the solenoid. I used plastic weld glue #16 (great name right) off Amazon to glue the acrylic flux tubes to the acrylic balls. I then glued the flux tube to the top of the flux block while at the same time the ball to the rod inside the wood wheel and at the same time epoxy to attach the flux block to the wheel. So three things glued at the same time and I held them for a few minutes while they set.

I used 1 1/2" plumbing pipe for the pipes on the outside. I painted them silver and then used epoxy to attach a wood disk to the top of the box then attach the pipe. The side pipe has a piece of pipe epoxied to the box and then the side piece can be removed. I will be putting a switch here. My father also had an old school Emboss Label maker. You can still buy these at Staples or Amazon, but from the reviews they are not as sturdy as the original ones.

This whole time I was working on this I spent the evenings working on the Arduino code. I had never programmed before and spent around 20 hours learning how to code. I used another guy's code and added a lot to it. I bought an Arduino starter kit for $35 off Amazon then went to the interwebz to learn.
https://create.arduino.cc/editor/xyster101/b07817c4-bae8-4c78-a75a-271cdacb2fe7/preview

Some features of my code include:
4 LEDS chasing
Motion sensor so it activates when you enter the room
3 codes to choose from: Time Travel chase where it speeds up, steady chase, and steady on.
Then it was onto hot glue the LEDs down. Two important things I learned from this:
Each LED needs it's' own resistor
Switches need a resistor when they are wired up or the Arduino board well get "false" on triggers.

When it is all assembled:

Video of it working:
https://youtu.be/dbO3RTeSHmQ
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