Finishing R2 fiber optic logic displays with resin?

[wannab]

Ok I know most of you are going, what the h*ll is a fiber optic logic display? It's a component for R2 D2. Here is a pic.

I'm trying to figure out what resin to use and how to use it to acheive the same look as the pic. Any help appreciated. Have everything but the resin and the knowhow.

Thanks.

Doug

 

[Corellianexports]

Why not use a circuit board? It's cheaper and easier to use than resin.

Drill each hole with a 3mm bit (paint flat black) and then use 3mm fiber optics. Once glued in place, just cut the remnants with an X-acto saw.

 

[wannab]

Why not use a circuit board? It's cheaper and easier to use than resin.

Drill each hole with a 3mm bit (paint flat black) and then use 3mm fiber optics. Once glued in place, just cut the remnants with an X-acto saw.

I already have that option with bezel that came with my J.E.D.I. set up. I am trying to get the look of the actual R2 as seen in that pic. I have the proper fibers that were used in the real R2 and want to finish them off properly as well.
I asked Don Bies about how he did it but the only info I got was he encased the ends in a block of resin and no further detail given. Maybe he blocked the fibers on the ends with resin then attached it to the surrounds and then poured more resin on the outside as well to kind of lock it all in place?


Doug

 

[RGPFX]

Clear envirotex resin mixes easily at 1:1 and can be found in small containers at Michael's Arts & Crafts.

 

[Corellianexports]

There's also a plastic liquid that can be found at an arts & crafts store or a plastics store. I forget what it is called, but once poored and dried, it resembles clear resin. It's mostly used to create a clear coat on wood plaques, etc.

 

[wannab]

Looks like I have some experimentin' ta do!
Thanks guys.

Doug

 

[mverta]

Most of the epoxys dry with a yellow-ish tinge, which you want to avoid. We used a 5-minute epoxy which dried perfectly clear. Ask new board member "jon laymon," what we used.

You can see the details of the build here:

http://www.mikeverta.com/Artoo


_Mike

 

[blewis17]

Most of the epoxys dry with a yellow-ish tinge, which you want to avoid. We used a 5-minute epoxy which dried perfectly clear. Ask new board member "jon laymon," what we used.

You can see the details of the build here:

http://www.mikeverta.com/Artoo


_Mike

That's incredible work, Mike! Neat to see Danica helping out!

 

[wannab]

Most of the epoxys dry with a yellow-ish tinge, which you want to avoid. We used a 5-minute epoxy which dried perfectly clear. Ask new board member "jon laymon," what we used.

You can see the details of the build here:

http://www.mikeverta.com/Artoo


_Mike

Nice work Mike!
That's the weathered effect we are going for too -- hate the clean R2 look.

Which process did you go with for the blue?

Are you planning on any sort of write up on your build?

Thanks for the heads up. I'll follow up with Jon soon.

Doug

 

[mverta]

Nice work Mike!
That's the weathered effect we are going for too -- hate the clean R2 look.

Which process did you go with for the blue?

Are you planning on any sort of write up on your build?

Thanks for the heads up. I'll follow up with Jon soon.

Doug

There are a couple of things I'm sure of with the blue: 1) We absolutely figured out the process by which they painted it, if not the color. There are some important optical properties to the original paintjobs (LONG since gone/repainted/don't exist on any real dome anymore) which can only be replicated one way. 2) It isn't anodizing, and it sure as hell has nothing in common with "Hypo Blue" or any of the current painting methods.

As for what it is, well it's $5k in materials and 2 1/2 weeks of my life solving a 30-year chase is what it is. I'm not 1000000% sure of the color yet, only 100% sure, so it'll stay with me until I'm sure it's right. I don't want to say, "this is it," unless I'm as sure as I can possibly be about it. And I'm not. I love it, it's the closest anyone's come, ever, to ANH blue. It's not, absolutely, go home and forget about it, "it," yet. I think. I dunno. Ask me again, sometime. Actually, you won't have to; I've begun work on R2 v2 already... This was just a practice run.

Here's what I mean, by the way, by: 100% sure, not 1,000,000% sure:

_Mike

 

[wannab]

Understood. Looks really close, that's why I asked. I have yet to see it nailed. You are the first I have asked just because it looked so close.

On the original, it almost looks hand painted in the uneven nature of the finish (thick & thin areas). It also has a translucent quality -- sort of a candy effect.

When you feel a little more comfy, please fill me in.


Doug

 

[mverta]

Understood. Looks really close, that's why I asked. I have yet to see it nailed. You are the first I have asked just because it looked so close.

On the original, it almost looks hand painted in the uneven nature of the finish (thick & thin areas). It also has a translucent quality -- sort of a candy effect.

When you feel a little more comfy, please fill me in.


Doug

You're on the right track. We had complete control over the "thickness," and in the end, followed a dome with slightly less "brush marks/drags/unevenness" than seen in this reference, but we had some tests that looked identical. Some domes were repainted mid-shooting, as well, which makes it tough. Also, early on, at least one had a traditional paint job for a time, which reads very differently.


_Mike

 

[wannab]

Did you use some sort of clear primer or etch?


Doug

 

[vaderdarth]

You nailed the color Mike. I think you did the same thing I did on mine. Nothing else works and it's the only way to make it look so dark almost black blue in low lighting yet almost Prequel blue in the direct sunlight. This is the signature OT R2 Blue in my opinion.

Dave

 

[mverta]

...without it going purple or green. An impossibly narrow window to hit, it seemed at time. Got pics of yours?


_Mike