Farnsworth Discussion

I got the same one mate, :(. Its such a pain in the ass living in the UK sometime, ive spent all morning trying to source parts but had no luck at all......
I added the left knob to cart on an US supplier site and they are asking for $110 to ship, the knob price was 0.39 cents...Joke

I guess ill just keep looking.

Andy
 
retrodeejay said:
I got the same one mate, :(. Its such a pain in the ass living in the UK sometime, ive spent all morning trying to source parts but had no luck at all......
I added the left knob to cart on an US supplier site and they are asking for $110 to ship, the knob price was 0.39 cents...Joke

I guess ill just keep looking.

Andy
Click to expand...


Hey Andy,

I live in the UK too and I found this knob for my Farnsworth. It's a perfect match and cheap shipping! :D


Wish I'd known about the switchcraft switches being on ebay before lol! :facepalm
 
I often have the same problem trying to get stuff shipped here to OZ for a reasonable cost.

retrodeejay said:
I got the same one mate, :(. Its such a pain in the ass living in the UK sometime, ive spent all morning trying to source parts but had no luck at all......
I added the left knob to cart on an US supplier site and they are asking for $110 to ship, the knob price was 0.39 cents...Joke

I guess ill just keep looking.

Andy
Click to expand...
 
Hi Guys, Need a quick answer if possible. can anyone tell me the button dimension/spaces on the face plate and also the correct font to use??

Many Thanks

Andy
 
I'll keep the question train going. What is the preferred method for attaching the red lens. Do you make the hole big enough for the red lens to screw in? Or do you just make the hole big enough for the led holder, and sand off the red lens and glue on top? Or another alternative?
 
Just aged my faceplate this morning & attached mine. It just pressure fit into the hole & is secure on it's own. There's a kind of lip behind the threads that click right into the hole with no modifications.

Just saw your question about painting the plastic case. I believe that the 'FUSION' paint is specifically made for plastics & my local Wal-Mart carries it in the Espresso color that most seem to be favoring.
 
I guess there must be a different sized hole in the plastic plate than the brass. Because I can't even fit a 5mm LED into the hole, and the red lens isn't even close. But I guess that answers my question. Guess I need to make the hole bigger.
 
I'm sorry. I thought you had a brass plate.

My suggestion is to go the same size as the OD of the lens cover that sits above the plate. On my lens cover, there's the threads, a 'bump', some space, then the lip of the cover. My plate is 2mm thick & the plate rests in the space between the bump & the lip.Without calipers, I'm not positive, but I believe the walls of the lens above the plate is the same diameter as the space where mine rests.

If anyone has any more info on the plastic plates, please chime in. I just spoke up cause that's right where I am now.
 
Re: Farnsworth Faceplate

Hi Guy, myacrylic faceplate, haven't recessed some bits yet, but please let me know what you think

Retro

f08a6ef7a69ac9ab483611b8fd962e94-1_zpsc6da0964.jpg
 
I am building a Farnsworth replica and an idea came to me while painting the back of the display glass: what if I stopped while it was only "half-silvered?" It appears (photos to follow) that a black and white photo of, say, Artie, behind the screen is invisible until lights come on behind the screen and illuminate the photo. Until then, the screen just looks opaque silver. A few white led's mounted around the photo should work. Not a working monochrome display but better than either a photo or a silver display, no?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Kukulcan
Limited Run Warehouse 13 Farnsworth 'hero' kit - all gone
2
Replies
20
Views
3,360
Sulla
Sulla
Back
Top