Fallout 4 - Mr Handy 1/8th sculpt

onewithnopaper

New Member
This is my first foray into posting a chronicle of a sculpt, so please correct me if I make any posting faux pas. (EDIT: reposted here, the correct forum. After my initial mis-posting)

I've been working on this model on and off for the past month or so. I'm completely new to a bunch of the materials and processes I'm using, so I'm certain to have made -and continue to make- mistakes. There's few photos of parts of the build. I kept forgetting to document, since it's not something I've ever done before.

On with the progress so far!
Hope you enjoy.
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I started out with drawing up some rough plans for the model. Well, initially I just wanted a technical drawing of a Mr Handy, but during the process of gathering reference I slowly decided to build a model too.

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I found a 50mm wooden ball as a base to work from. I didn't trust my sculpey skills to make a perfect sphere, and this was roughly the right size. My guesstimations make Mr Handy floating at about 150cm, so this makes the scale about 1/8th.

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I used a dremel to cut into the wood where needed. Turns out those things are pretty tough.

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I sculpted the vents and stabilisers from primo sculpey, which I do not have much experience with. This is only my second project using it, and it's a bit softer than I'd like before cooking. It does the job, though, and takes a really nice finish. The extra bits were baked and stuck to the body with epoxy.

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The main thruster and camera/eye were made from the same sculpey. The support ring/waist is mostly clear styrene I had left over from another project, and a little bit of epoxy putty for some of the curves.

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The main stack isn't glued yet here, just press fitting some pins and sockets from epoxy. Priming and sanding on the main body has begun. The interior of the eye cutaways is filled with epoxy putty to cover the dremel gouges. Mr Handy has much more interior detail (the concept art is amazing reference for this), and I did start sculpting some of those. It just didn't look right, however, so I tried again with some kitbashing, which also didn't look great. In the end I decided to leave it smooth so as not to distract from the exterior details. Since I'm planning on roto-casting the main body in resin, I can always add an entire naked Mr Handy core inside later.

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I entirely forgot to document the process of making the legs and hand attachments. They're entirely sculpey and styrene, though. A good portion of the round parts are made from scavenged model kit sprues, including the joint details.

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All the parts laid out just before the final prime, sand and finish.

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Once all the parts had a nice finish, I made some silicone moulds. Not only was this my first time using silicone, it was my first time making a mould at all. I thought this would be easier than making three identical sets of camera/eyes and legs, and if I were moulding them I may as well make a full set. Perhaps I will generate my own Mr Handy army.

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Along with my first time using silicone, or moulding anything, this is my first time working with resin. So these are the mistakes. The set on the left was the first attempt. Not a single usable part came out, but I did kinda expect that. For the middle set I cut some air channels, widened the pour gates and got my timing and angles a bit better. One or two usable pieces came out of that set. On the right is the set I just pulled a few hours ago after cutting more air channels. Again, there are a lot of bubble and blockage problems, but its definitely improving. The resin I'm using has a very short pot-life, only about 2 minutes before it has gelled too much to flow through the thinner parts. It may have been an unwise beginner casting project to choose something with so many tiny details. The advantage, I guess, is that I'm not wasting much resin with each failed attempt.


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I do have a few usable parts with just a few bubbles to fill and a little flashing to trim. All is not lost.


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The one success so far is the second rotocast of the body. I couldn't wait to get a glimpse of the final model. Perhaps to counter the repeated failures of the tiny parts. Without even priming or prepping the surface in any way (I didn't even clean it) I slapped some rub'nbuff on the front. It makes me feel much more hopeful.


That's where I am so far!

I've ordered more silicone, since I was just playing with a 250gm sample kit. I'll need to remake at least one of the moulds. I ripped the waist mould while separating the second part from the master. Obviously I missed a spot with the release. It was just unlucky it was at a detail critical spot otherwise it might be repairable. I might remake a few others to deal with bubbles and blockages a since now I'm a tiny bit wiser. The stuff is expensive, though. I expect I'll want to play with it more for other projects anyway.

Thanks for reading through all of my many and varied ineptitudes.
More to come as the situation develops...
 
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I love your illustrations. I didn't realize you could get such small details using sculpey.
Those parts are small enough that you could use a home-built PVC pipe vacuum chamber to reduce the bubbles.
 
Thanks everyone! It's very encouraging to hear you all like it.

Zapwizard - I am thinking about a pressure chamber for the future. I may go for a pressure cooker at some point, but for now I just want to get a handle on the basics first. The silicone wasn't too bad for bubbles, its the resin I'm finding troublesome. I think that is mostly because it sets too darn fast for the tiny parts. I'm having more success now, though.

Noble625 - Maybe some day I'll put it together as a kit. It'd be great to package it all up like the in-game Mr Handy model kit. Almost worth the effort just for that. I'd need to do a lot more work on it to get it ready, but if enough people are interested I might.

On to the show!


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The new silicone arrived, so I remade a few of the moulds I wasn't happy with. I had a bit of trouble with rotocasting the main body, so I made a low-tech matrix from plaster. It helps prevent squishing the mould, since my rotocasting technique is somewhat ... manual. (I wave it around and hope for the best)

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As a result I now have a full set of usable parts! I discovered the magic of talc as a release for casting. That, along with better moulds, has helped a huge amount with surface bubbles

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As a result, I've been getting a really great surface finish and just a tiny bit of flashing on most of the parts. Some of the flash you can almost blow off, which I'm really pleased with.

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All the parts wired up, ready for priming. (I reused some of the old mould silicone as filler in the new ones to save on precious materials. While I hold onto these scraps for the next project, they make great drying stands.)


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All primed up, with some pre-shading.

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I made some lenses for the camera/eyes from clear acrylic rods. I turned them on my 'lathe' and polished them up. The inside surface is a bit matte so it'll take paint better and I can add the iris pattern on the inside.
(My 'lathe' is a drill so ancient it only has one speed. I used a scalpel to scrape the surface to shape, which worked really well but was rather terrifying.)


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I did a quick round of the rub'nbuff treatment on a few of the parts to quell my impatience. I'm really surprised how good that stuff looks.

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Of course I couldn't resist them gluing up one leg and holding it together for a few beauty shots.

The shiny finish really picks up all the details I spent so much time on. Unfortunately it also picks up all the mistakes I spent so much time on...
Some of that will need more attention, but most of it I can probably hide under weathering.

Thanks again for the comments, everyone. I really do appreciate it.

More soon.
 
This is amazing, will you be offering kits?

You should be looking into Vacuum Metalizing, this thing would look amazing in true chrome.
 
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Maybe at some point in the future I'll offer kits. I'm not a premium member in good standing yet, so I can't right now. If I ever do I'll let everyone on the thread know.

I agree it'd look great all chromed up. It's expensive, though. Plus I like to do things myself if I can. I might try cold-casting with some aluminium powder later on, or even pull one or two in pewter if I decide I don't want the moulds anymore. It's not heat rated silicone, so it wouldn't last through more than one or two casts.

More progress to come soon. The complete model is almost done!
 
It's been longer than I expected since I last had a chance to work on this little guy, but it's coming along pretty well.

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All the parts laid out, and the legs glued up. I haven't quite finished with painting some of the 'hand' attachments yet, but the majority of the main parts have been buffed (oh god, so much buffing).

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I may need to rethink the legs a bit if I ever make any more of these. The idea was that in three parts I'd have to option to pose them at slightly different angles. That part worked out fine, but gluing at the main joints with cyano resulted in a really frustratingly delicate bond. In the end I used some 5 minute epoxy to make sure it was durable enough, but I'll have to consider reworking the master and adding some pins for subsequent casts. It means making him less pose-able,

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The eye-stalks got some aluminium wire added for extra support. With some holes drilled in the head and a dab of cyano they're pretty solid and can take the big ball of resin that is the eye.

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The eyes did have some knurling painstakingly carved into the focussing rings, but the enamel paint I used to paint them covered up all my hard work.

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I photoshopped up some aperture rings in varying sizes, and printed them out for the back of the lenses. A tiny dab of PVA and a good squeeze results in a perfectly clear bond. It doesn't show up so well in the photos thanks to the lighting, but it looks just like it's painted on.


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All the lenses test fitted into the eyes. I'm pretty happy with how these turned out. They fit so well I doubt they'll even need glue.

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I cut out a base from some plywood I had laying around to help with assembly and painting. Then I decided to pretty it up and use it as a display stand, too.


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Painted up with some vault-tec blue acrylic.

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And of course correctly branded for vault 111.

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Shiny.

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Legs glued on. Looks like progress!



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Of course I couldn't help but balance the eyes on top to see how he looks.

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The first glimpse of how he'll look when complete.


I have a little time to paint up the remaining parts and finish the assembly over the next few days, so hopefully I'll have some pictures of him all finished very soon.
I'm still deciding if he'll be a factory-new model or a rusty wasteland junker in the end. Either way he'll be shiny and new for at least a little while.


So close!
 
I'm jealous of your patience!. Lol.. Fantastic drawings, and moldelmaking. I would definitely get a small pressure pot if I were you. It's a great investment especially if you are casting small parts. Just make sure your silicone molds are engineered to handle the pressure. No bubbles in rubber and 2" thick at least.
 
I'm still deciding if he'll be a factory-new model or a rusty wasteland junker in the end. Either way he'll be shiny and new for at least a little while.
Make two and have him from both parts of the game the 2077 version and 2287 version, maybe with a little bowler hat
 
Love it ! I usually meander around the general modeling section but luckily stumbled apon your thread. I too am getting ready to make some molds for an x-wing I'm working on....never tried it and kinda nervous. Your thread offers me hope, lol. Great work...
 
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