FABRICATING a real IRONMAN suit out of STEEL.

mrjbarl1 said:
Thank you very much, I really appreciate the input. I do need to clarify that my suit will be mostly made out of 18 and 20 gauge steel. Only the smaller supporting parts will be made from the heavier gauge. I will tell you right now though, your biggest issue with 22 gauge will be welding all the seems. 18 gauge is hard enough to keep from melting an edge; you can only imagine how hard it will be to use 22. Keep that in mind, and if you have any questions regarding the suit being built with steel, feel free to ask; I'd be glad to help




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


I'm so glad to have found your actual project here. As I said I am looking into doing the same here soon. Given my time frame I am hoping to at least get the torso [Abs, chest, & back] done in about 8-10 weeks, which will likely be pushing it. Thanks much for the tip on thickness; hopefully I can change that as we just put in our materials lists to the instructor Friday. Given the short time and the best we can use for these projects is MIG rather than TIG I only hope it looks half as good as yours already does.


Also, I have had one concern for this that I would like to ask you about. Are the edge flaps necessary for metal? I mean the edge trimming that goes unused for metal and, as far as I understand it, is mainly there for strength and a build up for fiberglass on paper. I feel that it may be difficult to work with made of metal and given out machines tolerance of .2 in [about 5 mm] it may be hard to even cut out.


Thanks so much for your input and I cant wait to see yours finished, as you apparently have much more expertise than I do. I'd say good luck, but it seems you are too good to need it :p
 
Moros17 said:
I'm so glad to have found your actual project here. As I said I am looking into doing the same here soon. Given my time frame I am hoping to at least get the torso [Abs, chest, & back] done in about 8-10 weeks, which will likely be pushing it. Thanks much for the tip on thickness; hopefully I can change that as we just put in our materials lists to the instructor Friday. Given the short time and the best we can use for these projects is MIG rather than TIG I only hope it looks half as good as yours already does.


Also, I have had one concern for this that I would like to ask you about. Are the edge flaps necessary for metal? I mean the edge trimming that goes unused for metal and, as far as I understand it, is mainly there for strength and a build up for fiberglass on paper. I feel that it may be difficult to work with made of metal and given out machines tolerance of .2 in [about 5 mm] it may be hard to even cut out.


Thanks so much for your input and I cant wait to see yours finished, as you apparently have much more expertise than I do. I'd say good luck, but it seems you are too good to need it :p
Click to expand...

I'm not 100% sure what you mean by edge flaps lol. But if it's what I think you mean, the supporting edge that I am installing is there to keep the helmet ridged in it's own separate pieces so that nothing will flex or bind when the mechanisms are installed.

If you noticed in my pictures, I only tacked the helmet together until it was completely built; that way it wouldn't warp when I welded all the seems. keep in mind tho, that after grinding the welds smooth on the out side, the helmet is still very weak and needs to be welded or et least stitched together from the inside to keep the seems from cracking if you don't have full penetration with the welds (which i recommend welding them cold on the outside to prevent warping and melting of defined edges).

I use both mig and tig to do my work so I can keep the detail. As long as you are steady/ experienced enough to make tiny tig welds without over heating and warping the crap out of it, you'll find that a tig welder is a very helpful tool for this project. You will also want to only tack the seems all shut instead of running continuous beads of weld.

One more helpful tip that I will give you, is that I HIGHLY recommend building a pep suit (or at least the helmet) before building a metal suit so you have a model to build around/keep the correct shape. You'll find that even with the pep patterns for the steel pieces, you will have to do a lot of complex bends and folds that could very easily make your suit look horribly inaccurate.

Take your time with it and learn to use an anvil, hammer, and dolly to make your seems close completely before welding.

I hope this helps you, and if you have any other questions please ask. I'm more than willing to help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got my creatING juices flowing tonight..... Maybe a vibranium core for an arc reactor is possible ;)

If this idea I've got works, you all might want to stay tuned for this next feat that I just might have figured out!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1392694191.985704.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
FINALLY...

Ladies and gentlemen,
I give you my vibranium arc reactor core.

As you can see, there are no power wires running to it.

....now only if I could power something with it.. Lol

.



ImageUploadedByTapatalk1392752427.860748.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1392752437.785595.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Impressive! Not sure i have the skill set to achieve this but , Will you share how you did it?

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
For once I am rather stumped. In the left photo, I can see wires connecting to it. But in the other one, there isn't any, so my only conclusion is that the tweezers are acting as conductor for the power, and that you might of have separated them and put an insulator between it. Can't really see the end of the tweezers, so I don't have sufficient data to make any more guesses and the photos are kinda poorly lit (Probably wanted to show off the brightness of the piece).
 
judging by the lens flares and single direction of the light, its probably a bunch of tiny coin batteries hidden behind the triangle and you have about 5 SMD 5050 LEDs on each side on the triangle? :)

hope I dont sound like an idiot. haha!

oh I havent said this yet but.. this is one of the sexiest things I have seen. DAYUMMMMMMM

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
I am stumpted on how you did this. A tutorial would be awesome. I was looking for the same type of result but for a different piece. Kudos to your results...GM
 
Looks like wireless power to me. Sometimes called Induction. I'm guessing that's what that black box is in the first picture, the induction coil.

...am I close?

-Nick
 
This thread is just amazing, the talent on here never ceases to amaze me. now tell the truth . . . . are you the REAL tony stark?! also just a small request i'm sure we are all hoping for, once you have this build finished and fitted with a mechanism, any chance of a video to see and more importantly hear that sexy clang of the faceplate slamming shut?
 
Wow! Ive been working with Fibreglass for the past 10 years...you make me wish I had done Steel Fabrication...Some seriously nice work mate, look forward to seeing a finished product.
 
Wow. I can't even begin to imagine the man hours involved in the helmet alone.
Based on the time elapsed in this thread I imagine this project would be completed....Uh in a long time
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

paxtoprime94
Idea for Iron Man Suit that you can step right in/out of
Replies
1
Views
573
renaissance_man
renaissance_man
ClayTheSpider15
Spider-Man Suit Printing Help and Other Tips
Replies
0
Views
637
ClayTheSpider15
ClayTheSpider15
paxtoprime94
“FABRIC” IRON MAN SUIT? (Fabric-covered foam?)
Replies
2
Views
711
Kolin86
Kolin86
Surrational0
Corrupted Captain America Finished (Pic Heavy)
Replies
14
Views
2,340
Malibu139
Malibu139
Venom1989
IRONMAN MK 43 whole Suit 3d printed [WIP]
Replies
4
Views
3,658
Startup1dustrie
Startup1dustrie
Back
Top