brandomack
Sr Member
very cool!
The bondo melts it just the same as fiberglass does. My guess is Shellac is not a good sealer for fiberglass resin.
However, I did some experimenting this weekend after a few members suggested using PVA Glue. Xrobots did a video on his thread. He used it on EVA foam, but the idea is using the glue as a sealer. I doubt it matters what you are sealing.
http://www.therpf.com/f24/how-plastic-coat-foam-costume-pieces-146539/
I followed his tutorial on some scrap foam using Elmer's Glue All and worked like a champ.
Bottom piece is raw foam, Second is 2 coats of glue, and top is with 3 coats of glue. All were done using the same batch of resin. For what its worth, After the resin cured, I smoothed out the second piece with more resin
When it comes to coating the actual prop, I am debating if I should use the mesh or just go with resin. Opinions?
Also, this weekend, I cleaned up all the head pieces and glued it all together.
-Eric
However, I did some experimenting this weekend after a few members suggested using PVA Glue. Xrobots did a video on his thread. He used it on EVA foam, but the idea is using the glue as a sealer. I doubt it matters what you are sealing.
http://www.therpf.com/f24/how-plastic-coat-foam-costume-pieces-146539/
I followed his tutorial on some scrap foam using Elmer's Glue All and worked like a champ.
Bottom piece is raw foam, Second is 2 coats of glue, and top is with 3 coats of glue. All were done using the same batch of resin. For what its worth, After the resin cured, I smoothed out the second piece with more resin
When it comes to coating the actual prop, I am debating if I should use the mesh or just go with resin. Opinions?
Also, this weekend, I cleaned up all the head pieces and glued it all together.
-Eric
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I use Modge Podge to seal foam -one coat and you're good. It also creates a hard outer shell which is nice for protecting the foam from accidental dings and dents.
Beautiful build, looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
Beautiful build, looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
Chris27989
Sr Member
offering a kit maybe?
she is beautiful well done
she is beautiful well done
I might. Will see how she turns out and what it would take. Right now I am just doing it for fun.
Today's update is small. I put some more glue on the arms to seal them. They are ready for resin.
I started working on sizing up the face mask. Originally, I was just going to paint it black, but decided to make a recess inside the head for a smoke tinted piece of acrylic. In the movie it is actually clear with a display behind it.
Anyway here is how I sized it:
First one was a little big, after looking at some screen caps I shrunk it down on the top.
Next up, I will sand the area down 1/4" where the display will go and then sand the pieces smooth before I seal with glue.
-Eric
Abelugo
Sr Member
I had this very issue a while back when working on that same foam. I ended up finding a buddy with the yellow foam. But I also bought some Steve's foam coat for some pink foam parts, it just like oatmeal with glue (might be). Anyhow I would also recommend the elmers. But also note there is a florist paint that works on foam, I believe it may be the same paint as seen in this site Foammart
But elmers is much, much cheaper, just make sure toe have enough layers and coverage.
Nice build so far.
But elmers is much, much cheaper, just make sure toe have enough layers and coverage.
Nice build so far.
I have read that EVA from is the same as the foam floor mats for kids or shop floors. That stuff is spongy and in my opinion would tear when machined. The pink foam is very rigid and machines very well.
-Eric
Abelugo
Sr Member
Its a rigid yellow foam. High density foam, not sure if its eps or not, i do know its very pricey. But it is the same stuff all the effects house use to build large models, you can fiberglass or coat, my sculpting studio at work uses high build primer in a gun and keeps shooting layer to build a surface.
The stuff comes in different pound densities, from 2# to 15# or higher the heavier the more dense it is, the best is right about 8-10#. This stuff dings really easy, but you can straigh top coat it with bondo.
Foam sales burbank is the cheapest, you can get it by the foot, it was about 95 bucks 1'x 4' x 4". You can layer it by gluing it together of double sticking it together.
http://www.foamsalesandmarketing.com/special.html
The stuff is mainly used to make surfboards.
The stuff comes in different pound densities, from 2# to 15# or higher the heavier the more dense it is, the best is right about 8-10#. This stuff dings really easy, but you can straigh top coat it with bondo.
Foam sales burbank is the cheapest, you can get it by the foot, it was about 95 bucks 1'x 4' x 4". You can layer it by gluing it together of double sticking it together.
http://www.foamsalesandmarketing.com/special.html
The stuff is mainly used to make surfboards.
cavx
Master Member
Yeah it is the same a gym mats, so you won't machine EVA with great success. You can layer it and sculpt it with the aid of power tools though. I have found that a small drum sander on the dremil works a treat if you run the sander the same direction as the wheel is spinning. If you drag it the other way, it tends to bite in and take a chunk. Once you work out which way to run it, it is like carving anything soft and you just repeat the strokes until you have the desired shape. The beauty of EVA is that it does not seem to melt with products like acetone (which will pretty much eat through anything).
Apparently you can firber glass (not done myself, have seen a few YouTube videos) and Bondo (have done this) right over the top with no sealing of the foam first. I just used ABS and acetone to make ABS Sludge to seal EVA foam on a Pred Bio and it seems to have worked OK.
This link took me to Disney :confused
Abelugo
Sr Member
Here you go. foamsales&marketing
That other page was just samples of the sculpting done with that foam.
For soft foam, likw the gym mats you need a air powered die grinder with a sanding disc about 120 grit, you gotta be really light, die grinders like these are high speed and will make the foam into a bunch of dust really fast, i use a black foam called ensolite, similar to the gym mat, i was told by one of the foam store it has no memory so it will alway go back into its original place or shape. I've used it for bicycle seats.
That other page was just samples of the sculpting done with that foam.
For soft foam, likw the gym mats you need a air powered die grinder with a sanding disc about 120 grit, you gotta be really light, die grinders like these are high speed and will make the foam into a bunch of dust really fast, i use a black foam called ensolite, similar to the gym mat, i was told by one of the foam store it has no memory so it will alway go back into its original place or shape. I've used it for bicycle seats.
I had a slight diversion the last week. I ended up using ll my foam on some Minecraft swords for my sons birthday party. Of course I overdid it. I had this whole thing planned out for them to paint them and they globbed the paint on to where it would never dry. I should have just had them sword fight.
So now that the party is behind me, I was able to get back to Eve. I still need to replace my foam and make the body. However, I thought I would start glassing the parts that I have already done. As mentioned before, I used the PVA glue method that Xrobots uses on his foam Iron Man armor.
I decided to start with the arms. They are smaller and easier to replace if I screw something up. I am doing one side at a time.
Coat of resin:
Lay the fiberglass matte into place:
Start brushing on resin on top of matte:
First side done:
The edges lifted on me and did not stick very well. I might try the seems on the flat area on the other arm. First time doing fiberglass, so I am learning as I go.
-Eric
So now that the party is behind me, I was able to get back to Eve. I still need to replace my foam and make the body. However, I thought I would start glassing the parts that I have already done. As mentioned before, I used the PVA glue method that Xrobots uses on his foam Iron Man armor.
I decided to start with the arms. They are smaller and easier to replace if I screw something up. I am doing one side at a time.
Coat of resin:
Lay the fiberglass matte into place:
Start brushing on resin on top of matte:
First side done:
The edges lifted on me and did not stick very well. I might try the seems on the flat area on the other arm. First time doing fiberglass, so I am learning as I go.
-Eric
dude---forget that expensive resin----all u need to use is elmers glue on your fiberglass cloth---no mixing /harsh chemicals/ etc..etc...and it comes out as hard as a cast for a broken arm !...I've use this method on all my foam builds--it will also soak in to the pores of the foam and wont peel off
jediscout72
Well-Known Member
Sweet build!
Cadeus
Sr Member
That is interesting... I wouldn't have thought about that. And since his original is for a casting dummy, anyway, it wouldn't need to be as strong as resin... would it be possible to go one step further and use cotton cloth instead of fiber-glass matte? I am curious because I have a project I intend to resurect this summer that I could use that short-cut on.
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