DW's Iron Man Mark 3 build

Hello, I have started a new costume and it's a Iron Man Mark 3.
I am still waiting on the center/cod/butt section along with some other minor pieces but I don't think it will slow me down. Day 1 was some minor cleanup and getting more familiar with the suit. I have built a ton of SW costumes but never a suit like this. It's amazing how clean all the castings are. With some minor cleanup around the edges most of the pieces are almost ready to go.
PLEASE DO NOT ASK OR POST THE MAKERS NAME IN THIS THREAD.
Thanks, Darren
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looks great, just shoot it with a blue pearl clear and have a Stealth Iron Man lol. (kidding)
 
Looks awesome! I'm a noob to finishing (painting) and am looking at refinishing the IM suit I just purchased. Can you tell me what paint color you're going with - do you primer - sand then paint or do you have to put down a metallic undercoats...again sorry for the noob questions.

Thanks!
 
Moving along with more photo's. The helmet arrived assembled and is really cool. It's a 4 piece which allows the faceplate to move up and the jaw to move down. I cut the chest and back apart into two pieces. There was a cut line on the side and I cut the top section out per the photo attached. As far as the paint I haven't figured that out yet. I am going to prime it with rattle can primer today. I would LOVE to use automotive paint but I haven't really looked into that yet.
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Moving along with the build I glued the two shoulder pieces together to make one each.
Then I added the circular discs to the shoulder bells.
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I also got the biceps and forearms put together. I am using a screw on each side. I drilled down
into the discs a bit and added the nut to each of them. What is nice about this is they can be
broken down for painting.
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I asked the maker of the suit what he thought about leaving the bottoms on the cast foot pieces.
My concern was if I left them on I would slip while trooping in the suit. He suggested adding some
doormat pieces to the bottom’s. I bought a cheap doormat at the dollar store and cut it up. Using
super glue I attached the pieces. I also sprayed some spray mount to the side that is coming in contact with the floor. Surprisingly they actually
work very well. I had them on for a few hours last night in the shop and had no problems getting around
or slipping.
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That's not a bad idea. I was curious what people have been using to not slip and not wear down the "soles".
 
I'm guessing he meant "floor mat" (i.e. the vinyl type of car floor mat that would give traction), not "door mat," but hey, if it works . . .

Looking really good!
 
I'm guessing he meant "floor mat" (i.e. the vinyl type of car floor mat that would give traction), not "door mat," but hey, if it works . . .

It's working OK so far but maybe I should have used a rubber car floor mat, I'll have to give that a try.
Thanks Darren!
 
Moving along to the shoulder attachments. I tried several different positions for the connecting straps and I found this one works the best for me. I only glued the bottom half to allow for some shoulder movement.
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For the chest I have attached the straps to the front of the back piece with glue. I then cut some holes in the chest and ran
a screw through each side. I’m having some trouble getting the sides to fit because I’m still a bit to heavy. I’ll have
to figure something later near the end of the build.
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The illuminating eyes are done with 12" x 1.25" electroluminescent panel / EL tape.
My buddy Ed pointed me in the right direction for this item. It can be purchased on ebay and they come in different color's. I choose the white one. You will also need to purchase the 9 volt adapter. The nice thing is this can be cut down to fit. I trimmed a bit off to allow it to go in the helmet. I will need to position the strip down a bit when I wear the helmet. The ebay link is below the photo.
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12"x1.25" electroluminescent panel / EL tape/back light | eBay
 
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