EdgeofNowhere
Well-Known Member
is there a back to this? Or just the face of the VM?
Doctor Who: Time Agent's Vortex Manipulator *SPOILER*
- Thread starter Risu
- Start date
i think for the standard stainless steel option, they dont polish... they polish for antique bronze or gold. but if you get the regular stainless steel and polish it yourself, that'd be best. If we want, i can scale up the part like 1% so that way the amount you sand off in polishing will bring it back to normal size. it might not even make a difference though.
Shapeways | Forum: It arrived! => Stainless Steel - Polished (post production) here is what someone did with stainless steel from shapeways. you can DEFINITELY polish it to the point you want, if you do it right.
Dave Porter
Sr Member
That's what I did with mine (it's in silicone right now)
I'm making a copy for when I inevitably screw it up (I'm fitting a 2nd gen iPod nano in under the larger directional button)
But plugging it up, or as I did, fill the whole thing, is the way to go.
Then, remove the clay, and make the 2nd part of the mold.
protokev DMD
Sr Member
anyway to get the round button in stainless? Thats the only thing stopping me, as i dont want to have to color match with paint?
yea i'll adjust the settings. since the way the button is designed, with just grooves around the arcs, its so small of a detail that it might not come out.
there is another issue with the round button. since its so flat, shapeways doesnt want to print it. so to trick the system, i just mirrored the button so there were two, and have them attached back to back so its taller. so you get two buttons, attached. that doubles the material and isn't significant for the plastic, but for metal that will add to the cost. i'm gonna redo the button to try and fix these issues, if you want. i'm not sure how to fix the first issue though. to fix this second issue i'd need to make the button thicker than it is supposed to be, or something like that to add to the height. its 1.1 mm thick right now i think, and it'd need to be 2mm for shapeways to print it
there is another issue with the round button. since its so flat, shapeways doesnt want to print it. so to trick the system, i just mirrored the button so there were two, and have them attached back to back so its taller. so you get two buttons, attached. that doubles the material and isn't significant for the plastic, but for metal that will add to the cost. i'm gonna redo the button to try and fix these issues, if you want. i'm not sure how to fix the first issue though. to fix this second issue i'd need to make the button thicker than it is supposed to be, or something like that to add to the height. its 1.1 mm thick right now i think, and it'd need to be 2mm for shapeways to print it
protokev DMD
Sr Member
would it be possible then to get one with the circle button and the main plate as one piece?
hey sorry for neglecting you guys! i've been so busy with my inception totems and stuff. they sold like crazy and its been a hassle to deal with that, and my gf and all the normal work stuff and normal life stuff.
i have some sweet news though. I recently ordered a bunch of my little designs as rings and earings and necklace pendants and things like that, all made from stainless steel. I've learned a lot, and everything i've learned is GREAT news.
for starters, here is a picture:
in there you see 3 rings:
mobius strip split ring
egyptian eye of horus ring
howard street bridge ring
also you'll see a set of my star of david swoop earings, a twisted pendant, and a go stone with AGA 1D 'engraved'
I want to draw your attention to the go stone and the howard street bridge, and I want to make 3 points.
First, sandability. Looking at the stone, you can see its shinier. I sanded it for a couple minutes with 320 and then 1000, real quick, not a lot of time, and i got great results. pic is from my cellphone but literally i can see my reflection and recognize myself.
second point is the detail on the howard street bridge. i dunno if you can see it in the pic but the beams and top arch are actual I beams and you can make out the i-beam on the arched part of the bridge. you cant see it on the bars cuz they are facing to the left and right. its a clear line taht you can see in this pic on the right arch. i see it on both in real life but th epicture cant grab that i think
Point three is also looking at the bridge. those bars are SO thin.... 0.4mm wide. the I part of the I beam that sticks out is 0.13mm, so like less than two hairs thick.
the strength is this third point. i can make the part thinner and still strong. this brings down the amt of material used so the price will be lower.
sandability, detail, strength.
so i guess sorry for whoever has already ordered, but i'll be revising and making it better, cheaper faster stronger sexier whatever
send me messages if i forget or am slacking off... i guess i respond to $ and to nagging most in life =)
after these results, and the poor results i've been getting with the aluminum sandasting stuff, i'm going to scrap trying to sand cast this in aluminum and only focus on the stainless steel method.
i have some sweet news though. I recently ordered a bunch of my little designs as rings and earings and necklace pendants and things like that, all made from stainless steel. I've learned a lot, and everything i've learned is GREAT news.
for starters, here is a picture:
in there you see 3 rings:
mobius strip split ring
egyptian eye of horus ring
howard street bridge ring
also you'll see a set of my star of david swoop earings, a twisted pendant, and a go stone with AGA 1D 'engraved'
I want to draw your attention to the go stone and the howard street bridge, and I want to make 3 points.
First, sandability. Looking at the stone, you can see its shinier. I sanded it for a couple minutes with 320 and then 1000, real quick, not a lot of time, and i got great results. pic is from my cellphone but literally i can see my reflection and recognize myself.
second point is the detail on the howard street bridge. i dunno if you can see it in the pic but the beams and top arch are actual I beams and you can make out the i-beam on the arched part of the bridge. you cant see it on the bars cuz they are facing to the left and right. its a clear line taht you can see in this pic on the right arch. i see it on both in real life but th epicture cant grab that i think
Point three is also looking at the bridge. those bars are SO thin.... 0.4mm wide. the I part of the I beam that sticks out is 0.13mm, so like less than two hairs thick.
the strength is this third point. i can make the part thinner and still strong. this brings down the amt of material used so the price will be lower.
sandability, detail, strength.
so i guess sorry for whoever has already ordered, but i'll be revising and making it better, cheaper faster stronger sexier whatever
send me messages if i forget or am slacking off... i guess i respond to $ and to nagging most in life =)
after these results, and the poor results i've been getting with the aluminum sandasting stuff, i'm going to scrap trying to sand cast this in aluminum and only focus on the stainless steel method.
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edlitmus
New Member
Well, good to know, I don't mind not getting the thinner/newer version, it'll still be cool.
On a separate note: has anyone thought what to do with the big open area in the lower right corder of the piece? It looks like a display area, but I'm not sure what to put there. I was thinking it'd be interesting to put an old LCD watch display in there and use it as a watch. The screen caps seem to have something in that spot, but I can't tell what.
On a separate note: has anyone thought what to do with the big open area in the lower right corder of the piece? It looks like a display area, but I'm not sure what to put there. I was thinking it'd be interesting to put an old LCD watch display in there and use it as a watch. The screen caps seem to have something in that spot, but I can't tell what.
the point of making it thinner is to reduce the volume, and thereby reducing the cost to you all. it should also make more room in the back for electronics. I'm pretty shore the lower right is a screen or cloth screen, so i bet that means the microphone or speaker is back behind there
