Limited Run DL44 TFA Blaster Kit

[sliuman]

Thanks! Yeah I've been reading a lot -- trying to absorb it all and feeling my way along.

I still have a few questions, though.

Managed to cut the outer barrel off last night but decided not to shorten the brass barrel so as not to compromise the airsoft function. Getting the slide/barrel off was easier than I imagined. Now to see if i can get the guts out successfully.

Using a brass wire wheel on my motor tool has worked for me in removing some of the paint for the eventual bluing. Will try cellulose thinners to see if that will be quicker.

One thing I'm unclear about is the positioning of the crossbar relative to the frame so I can drill holes for the studs. Anyone have any measurements or is this just eyeballed? I have a drill press but my dremel died years ago and the replacement is a Proxxon, so won't fit.

Also, because the frame is stepped relative to the mag housing, is it best to file one of the crossbar spacers supplied or add washers (though this might require a longer stud)?

Do I need to file the base where the bull barrel connects to aid the screws, or saw off the excess on the screws because of their extra length?

Thanks and sorry for being a pain.

Steve

 

[kpax]

Hey Steve,

Answers below. Hope it helps a little.

Thanks! Yeah I've been reading a lot -- trying to absorb it all and feeling my way along.

I still have a few questions, though.

Managed to cut the outer barrel off last night but decided not to shorten the brass barrel so as not to compromise the airsoft function. Getting the slide/barrel off was easier than I imagined. Now to see if i can get the guts out successfully.

Using a brass wire wheel on my motor tool has worked for me in removing some of the paint for the eventual bluing. Will try cellulose thinners to see if that will be quicker.

You can also try vinegar to remove finish. Many feel the "real" prop was painted so you may not need to remove all the bluing if you plan to paint. Just be careful not to wear off edges!

One thing I'm unclear about is the positioning of the crossbar relative to the frame so I can drill holes for the studs. Anyone have any measurements or is this just eyeballed? I have a drill press but my dremel died years ago and the replacement is a Proxxon, so won't fit.

Most simply eyeball the crossbar. Use a spacer to keep the bar parallel to the frame rails above. Place the crossbar where you want it and mark the hole position.

Also, because the frame is stepped relative to the mag housing, is it best to file one of the crossbar spacers supplied or add washers (though this might require a longer stud)?

Some file the washer, some just let it sit. Not so hard to grind an angle.

Do I need to file the base where the bull barrel connects to aid the screws, or saw off the excess on the screws because of their extra length?

What ever is easier for you. The screws were left long for custom fitting. You can also mark the areas and drill a slight detant.

Thanks and sorry for being a pain.

Steve

 

[sliuman]

Cheers kpax, much appreciated! I like the look of a blued weapon, so think I'll go that route. I have sanded off the original paint as that seemed to involve less mess! Hope my drilling is accurate.

 

[sliuman]

So after a few hours a night for the past four days, this is where I'm at right now.

There's an undeniable beauty to this in its raw steel(?)/alloy and aluminium form. I love it.

The internals have been removed to prepare for blueing and a few parts are not yet attached. Just hope I don't mess up with the chemicals.

Undecided whether to leave the roughness on the mount or sand it smooth. Most pictures reveal that's it's pretty smooth, in which case that's at odds with the casting. The two scope rings are smooth (in fact, way smoother than any finish I'm likely to achieve!). Any recommendations?

As to the weight, this is a beast! Feels great in the hand.

I think I love this more than my Coyle BR blaster.

 

[Rook 3]

I removed the paint with effort from my Airsoft, and the aluminum black worked fine on that, but the machined parts just won't blacken at all!
Very odd. I even lightly steel wooled them, rinsed the parts, still no change. They're as shiny as when they were new. Going to have to paint
after all I guess.

Question: the front metal scope cap/ring that holds the lens in place... do you just glue that in place? there's no recessed part like there
is on the back side of the scope.

 

[kpax]

Easiest thing is just to use a foam sanding block to smooth the mount and take off sharp edges. A quick once over should even up all the surface finish.

Nice looking blaster!

So after a few hours a night for the past four days, this is where I'm at right now.

There's an undeniable beauty to this in its raw steel(?)/alloy and aluminium form. I love it.

The internals have been removed to prepare for blueing and a few parts are not yet attached. Just hope I don't mess up with the chemicals.

Undecided whether to leave the roughness on the mount or sand it smooth. Most pictures reveal that's it's pretty smooth, in which case that's at odds with the casting. The two scope rings are smooth (in fact, way smoother than any finish I'm likely to achieve!). Any recommendations?

As to the weight, this is a beast! Feels great in the hand.

I think I love this more than my Coyle BR blaster.



View attachment 652462

 

[kpax]

Aluminum is very hard to "blacken". The parts need to be roughed up a bit with fine sandpaper or steel wool and VERY clean.
I warmed the parts with a hair dryer fairly hot. Placed them in a shallow tray and used the Al Black with 000 steel wool to "scrub" the chemical into the metal surface. Wearing goggles. rubber gloves and mask.!

The issue is the aluminum oxidation which starts immediately after you sand it so you must break thru the layer to allow the chemical to work. The scrubbing in with steel wool helps break the surface and allows the chemical to penetrate the metal.

I removed the paint with effort from my Airsoft, and the aluminum black worked fine on that, but the machined parts just won't blacken at all!
Very odd. I even lightly steel wooled them, rinsed the parts, still no change. They're as shiny as when they were new. Going to have to paint
after all I guess.

Question: the front metal scope cap/ring that holds the lens in place... do you just glue that in place? there's no recessed part like there
is on the back side of the scope.

 

[sliuman]

Excellent information. Thanks kpax!

 

[kpax]

Excellent information. Thanks kpax!

Let us know your results!

 

[dmachinist]

This run of DL44 kits will be starting to ship by Tuesday, any extra parts I have will be up by Tuesday/Wednesday

 

[mwells]

Awesome I am so excited to get the parts and to finish my very first blaster!

 

[Kylash]

I had seen someone mention using a 1/4-20 thread cutter and drill bit so without thinking that's what I used. Well the #7 drill bit that goes with that is too big for these threaded rods, i drilled the holes and found the bolts slipped right through them. So now Ive got a M712 with holes in it that are too big to attach the scope rods... Hopefully using some jbweld epoxy with the rods and discs will be enough to hold it, but I dont know.

Figures id screw up the most important part >_<

 

[tomm1999]

JB Weld should work. I used a Dewalt 10-32 tap and drill set ($5.00 from homedepot) and it worked perfectly, once the spacers are on the threads they are tight

The ANH kit is 1/4-20, the TFA kit is 10-32

I had seen someone mention using a 1/4-20 thread cutter and drill bit so without thinking that's what I used. Well the #7 drill bit that goes with that is too big for these threaded rods, i drilled the holes and found the bolts slipped right through them. So now Ive got a M712 with holes in it that are too big to attach the scope rods... Hopefully using some jbweld epoxy with the rods and discs will be enough to hold it, but I dont know.

Figures id screw up the most important part >_<

 

[Kylash]

Yeah, thats probably where I got confused. I suppose I could drill out the scope bar, and knurled discs to be 1/4-20 and get 1/4-20 threaded rods, but I could see that making things worse if I mess it up.

 

[kpax]

Hey Doc,

Sorry you had trouble with the threading confusion.

You could try this...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...-performance&gclid=CI3_mKfuw84CFcdehgodZnsMPw

A thread adapter. You can make spacers to fit over the nut head or use as the spacer... You can also file the nut head round if you want.

You don't have to use the one shown. (just had a nice pic) There are a lot available. Just search thread adapter 1/4-20 to 10/32

Yeah, thats probably where I got confused. I suppose I could drill out the scope bar, and knurled discs to be 1/4-20 and get 1/4-20 threaded rods, but I could see that making things worse if I mess it up.

 

[sliuman]

The story so far.

Been trying to blue my parts. Had mixed results which may be due to improper preparation.

The gun frame and receiver has become mildly blue/grey with a mottled appearance that is brown in some places. Nowhere close to a dark blue black. This is after at least 5 applications of Aluminium Black.

The scope is similarly patchy. Overall it's a very matt dark medium grey with hints of blue here and there. The flash hider is better but still not perfect. I have used almost the entire 3oz bottle to get this far.

Surprisingly, the pewter pieces did take to the Aluminium Black.

I have ordered more aluminium black and a bottle of Super Blue which I should have bought earlier.

Should I start again, or wait until my supplies are are in and just work on top of what I have already done?

I know it's been said that the TFA version is probably semi-gloss black, but I prefer the worn look of the ANH.

I also may omit the plastic plate supplied to cover the left side of the frame, mostly due to a possible inability to match it to the gun's colour.

Getting the guts back in is a real pain. I need four hands! Any tips out there? Sorry maybe pics tomorrow.

On a side note, I spotted this in a Hong Kong online store and thought "why not?". It's mean mentioned in a few posts on the RPF. Should be with me today or Wednesday.

http://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/p3252...s-Han-Solo-DL-44-GBB-Pistol/product_info.html

 

[Kylash]

Now that's starting to look like somethin! I didn't get the crossbar perfectly straight, but if I turn the bar the right way it kind of evens out, so I don't think the scope will be too crooked. Luckily even though I made the holes for the threaded rods too big, I made them far apart enough that the tension between the two held it on tight enough without the jbweld, so with the jbweld it should be good for a while.

 

[dmachinist]

The builds are looking very nice :cheers

 

[hairball]

So after a few hours a night for the past four days, this is where I'm at right now.

There's an undeniable beauty to this in its raw steel(?)/alloy and aluminium form. I love it.

The internals have been removed to prepare for blueing and a few parts are not yet attached. Just hope I don't mess up with the chemicals.

Undecided whether to leave the roughness on the mount or sand it smooth. Most pictures reveal that's it's pretty smooth, in which case that's at odds with the casting. The two scope rings are smooth (in fact, way smoother than any finish I'm likely to achieve!). Any recommendations?

As to the weight, this is a beast! Feels great in the hand.

I think I love this more than my Coyle BR blaster.



View attachment 652462

how did you get it that way, drush/dremel or chemicals?
I have tryed aceton, and paint stripper, did not work.(12 houres) Now im using some industry thinner, just have to see if that works

 

[sliuman]

I used a brass wheel in a my motortool first and then went in with sandpaper. The paint came off real quick. Use a medium grit so as not to score the metal. It's not steel as my drill bit went through fairly quickly when I drilled the holes for the cross bar. I tried acetone as well and that didn't work.

I can't believe that after kpax imparted some handy tips about heating up the parts and working in the AB with steel wool, I didn't follow through. Duh!
Will try again when supplies are in hand!