Limited Run DL44 TFA Blaster Kit

cant wait , started to fix up my hfc , originally planned to use a denix i had , but that is ready for next run of ANH parts ;)
Think i will go for aluminium black , rather than paint , more conserned with "realistic" gun look than screen accuracy.
 
Does anyone have any finishing tips for these parts? I have not painted metal like this before. I have only done a Cap shield (anodized).
 
Does anyone have any finishing tips for these parts? I have not painted metal like this before. I have only done a Cap shield (anodized).
Not sure on the base (the HFC) but for the aluminum parts I would go with Casey Birchwood aluminum black. Check out some of the other threads, Scottjua has also done tons of videos
 
Not sure on the base (the HFC) but for the aluminum parts I would go with Casey Birchwood aluminum black. Check out some of the other threads, Scottjua has also done tons of videos
If you want alu black for the gun also it works like a charm , just need to sand off that weird grey color
 
I'm wondering what will take the black finish off of the HFC to get the metal scratches we need on that after painting everything a uniform black.
 
I'm gonna be really curious to see how others do the scope mount holes. Ive never done a Han blaster before, and I'd like the keep the internals working if possible.
 
I'm gonna be really curious to see how others do the scope mount holes. Ive never done a Han blaster before, and I'd like the keep the internals working if possible.


I think the best way will be to disassemble. Locate the holes. I think then the best way to secure the rods will be to screw the rods in the frame by drilling and tapping the holes and screwed in so the are flush with the inside surface. Test "dry" fit. If you can't tap the holes you can drill tight holes. The idea will be to spread the force :cool:Dof the stress of the mount by using the spacer washers as a foot support along with the rod. You can epoxy the rod in the hole (flush with the inner surface) and also epoxy the spacer washer to the rod AND frame body. You can use the crossbar to keep the rods aligned by just slipping it over the rods loosely. Use plastic wrap, Vaseline or something to make sure you don't glue the crossbar to the rods !

Once the epoxy is cured the rods should be held very securely on the frame. Then you can assemble. For more secure attachment you could epoxy a small block or spacer in the center. It would be hard to see in that position if you plan to be rough on your blaster. !:(:lol

I am sure there are others with great suggestions but that's how I'm gonna try it...
 
Tomorrow is the big day! (According to USPS.com). Would everyone like a HFC disassembly video? I can make a quick one, its pretty easy

Lucky you ;) Absolutely, I think there are a lot of people (including me) willing to see any/all blaster stuff :)
 
Got mine today, its hard for DEC to surprise me because buying any of his products is like buying a Rolex, you know what high quality to expect and that its going to just work. But I must say the pictures don't do this kit justice, its just great! Im headed to the shop to shoot a couple video's to help out with the HFC dissaembly and mag mods.

Dave- thanks for all your hard work and dedication on getting these out. The scope knob is really neat and very generous of you. I can't wait to see what else you got cooking
 
Mine arrived today, too. Everything looks great! Can't wait to put it all together.

DEC has done it again. Great work!

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I took my HFC HG-196 apart and I used a chemical paint remover to get the bulk of the paint off. I have been using steel wool and 320 sandpaper to get some of the more stubborn paint off. There are some spots where the paint is being more of a challenge to remove. With aluminum black, will it be essential to get 100% of the paint off first (in the exposed areas)?
 
It may not take as well in the area's you don't remove all of the paint. You could do a small test area of the AB on one of the worst parts, see how it looks. The AB comes off pretty easy, so If you do have to keep sanding it doesnt add to much work

I took my HFC HG-196 apart and I used a chemical paint remover to get the bulk of the paint off. I have been using steel wool and 320 sandpaper to get some of the more stubborn paint off. There are some spots where the paint is being more of a challenge to remove. With aluminum black, will it be essential to get 100% of the paint off first (in the exposed areas)?
 
I am doing further hand sanding to try to get as much exposed aluminum as possible. There are a few spots where the paint seems to be deeper in the metal, or is in a crevice and it is a challenge to get to.
 
I am doing further hand sanding to try to get as much exposed aluminum as possible. There are a few spots where the paint seems to be deeper in the metal, or is in a crevice and it is a challenge to get to.

Try a little bit of spray paint thinner on those parts. It seemed to work like a charm on mine
 
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