DIY Back to the future Hoverboard prop supplies

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That’s terrible, brother. I can’t imagine going through something like that.

Yeah, it's not great....

The screen used ones have a gap.

I did not notice that!

I could add a 1/8" (3mm) wide raised rim to my 3d printed board fairly easily if you like. If I made it just 1mm deep it would give you something to "butt up to" with your vinyl and even to cut against with that Xacto knife of yours!

After all I made a depression for all the pieces to fit in (which I'm thinking now was very clever, but a mistake) so a simple rim would be child's play.

If I get a chance today i'll design one at least and send you a picture. Can't promise I'll print one though, it's a lotta plastic and then I'd have to ship it to ya, and we've already had the conversation about UK/USA shipping rates....

 

[BeaminScotty]

Yeah, it's not great....


I did not notice that!

I could add a 1/8" (3mm) wide raised rim to my 3d printed board fairly easily if you like. If I made it just 1mm deep it would give you something to "butt up to" with your vinyl and even to cut against with that Xacto knife of yours!

After all I made a depression for all the pieces to fit in (which I'm thinking now was very clever, but a mistake) so a simple rim would be child's play.

If I get a chance today i'll design one at least and send you a picture. Can't promise I'll print one though, it's a lotta plastic and then I'd have to ship it to ya, and we've already had the conversation about UK/USA shipping rates....

I appreciate the offer! I’ve got a 3D print guy who is currently doing a redesign of my board that has the surfaces inset as you mentioned. He’s also insetting for the lenticular strip that goes around the edge.

 

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I appreciate the offer! I’ve got a 3D print guy who is currently doing a redesign of my board that has the surfaces inset as you mentioned. He’s also insetting for the lenticular strip that goes around the edge.

As standard on mine...1mm rim rebate to take the lenticular strip. I'm not sure the indentations for the components was actually that good an idea; it potentially interferes with any vinyl or other decals.
I haven't added the "rim" you suggested yet as I've spent most of the day fighting with my lenticular alternative.

I've got this far, but not without issues. How close does it look to the original?

As you may see it's a silver background with a pink overlay. It looks okay to me, but it's complicated by the water-softening polymer layer on the top surface. I was going to get rid of it, but it's odd. Certainly SOFTENS in water and turns white, but as soon as it's dry, hardens and then simply can't shift it

 

[Grey Area]

I've no wish to offend anyone who has put in the effort that is so obvious here, but I've come to the conclusion that none of the layouts for the decals are accurate enough for my OCD. This is my failing and no one else's, but I keep noticing little differences like;

Movie still - word "Hover" almost entirely fills width of board;

Design template; word hover is much shorter

And it's not central. *grits teeth*.

Keep looking at the above design. Now look at this;

Where's the suppose yellow flash gone off the back corner?

That's just a couple of examples. Add in lines that are not parallel, things that line up in different places, angles of anywhere between 15° and 25° ON THE SAME LAYOUT, and as Foghorn Leghorn once said

"Boys, ah say boys, you are about to exceed the limits of mah medication."

I've decided there's nothing for it but to try and build my own.

Which wouldn't be such a bad idea if it weren't for the fact that I ain't exactly a power user at this stuff, so come back in a couple of years.

Kidding...I have six or so weeks to make one...but if it can't be right, I'd rather not do it.
Yes, you're right I don't have many friends. It is my fate. I prefer facts to friends, largely because the former are FAR more reliable!

And as much as I sound harsh, EVERYONE has got far more right than they have wrong; I just want to collate it all, and hopefully end up with the definitive "master document" on how to make this beast. Another problem however is my OCD; it only "sees" sensible numbers. If it turns out the angle on some of those lines is ACTUALLY 28° or 29°, I will distort the fabric of space and time to make it 30°.

But, all journeys start with a single step...what do we know?
We know the green velcro stripe is 25mm wide (Sorry, I'm British; get away with your inches, America!) and we know the line of green velcro passes EXACTLY through the 25mm hole that Marty left when he ripped off the handle bars;

The first thing that concerns me is that I took (I thought) reliable information that the board was 200mm wide by 710mm long (ie an aspect ratio of 3.55)...but the first line in this thread says the board is 203.614mm wide x 743.974mm giving an aspect ratio of 3.65. Now whilst that doesn't seem a lot, it means my board should be 730mm long, not 710mm, meaning my proposed decal would be 20mm short.

I'd really like to get that nailed down before I start, and I realise there's a lot of reasons/factors which could change the length...like....is the 15 degree angle of "kick" on the back correct, and if it is, how much of the board is actually "kicked"? To me, 75mm looks "right", 100mm looks "too long"...but an extra 25mm at 15° elevation works out to (dusts off trigonometry brain cells...) hypotenuse is opposite the 90 degree angle, so the line of the board on the deck is the adjacent, thus;

a/h = cosine 15°

rearrange to;

a = (cosine 15°) * h = =0.966 * 25 = 24.15mm

Depending where we pivot within the board (top, middle or bottom) that could easily replace my "short" 20mm.

Sorry for the maths lesson, but can anyone check my reasoning and confirm that
1. yes I have gone insane but more importantly
2. my numbers are right.

Thanks for listening, I know this was a rant; but hopefully, worthwhile in the long run.

 

[replicaprops]

I've no wish to offend anyone who has put in the effort that is so obvious here, but I've come to the conclusion that none of the layouts for the decals are accurate enough for my OCD. This is my failing and no one else's, but I keep noticing little differences like;

Movie still - word "Hover" almost entirely fills width of board;
View attachment 1947179

Design template; word hover is much shorter
View attachment 1947183

And it's not central. *grits teeth*.

Keep looking at the above design. Now look at this;

View attachment 1947192

Where's the suppose yellow flash gone off the back corner?

That's just a couple of examples. Add in lines that are not parallel, things that line up in different places, angles of anywhere between 15° and 25° ON THE SAME LAYOUT, and as Foghorn Leghorn once said

"Boys, ah say boys, you are about to exceed the limits of mah medication."

I've decided there's nothing for it but to try and build my own.

Which wouldn't be such a bad idea if it weren't for the fact that I ain't exactly a power user at this stuff, so come back in a couple of years.

Kidding...I have six or so weeks to make one...but if it can't be right, I'd rather not do it.
Yes, you're right I don't have many friends. It is my fate. I prefer facts to friends, largely because the former are FAR more reliable!

And as much as I sound harsh, EVERYONE has got far more right than they have wrong; I just want to collate it all, and hopefully end up with the definitive "master document" on how to make this beast. Another problem however is my OCD; it only "sees" sensible numbers. If it turns out the angle on some of those lines is ACTUALLY 28° or 29°, I will distort the fabric of space and time to make it 30°.

But, all journeys start with a single step...what do we know?
We know the green velcro stripe is 25mm wide (Sorry, I'm British; get away with your inches, America!) and we know the line of green velcro passes EXACTLY through the 25mm hole that Marty left when he ripped off the handle bars;
View attachment 1947201
The first thing that concerns me is that I took (I thought) reliable information that the board was 200mm wide by 710mm long (ie an aspect ratio of 3.55)...but the first line in this thread says the board is 203.614mm wide x 743.974mm giving an aspect ratio of 3.65. Now whilst that doesn't seem a lot, it means my board should be 730mm long, not 710mm, meaning my proposed decal would be 20mm short.

I'd really like to get that nailed down before I start, and I realise there's a lot of reasons/factors which could change the length...like....is the 15 degree angle of "kick" on the back correct, and if it is, how much of the board is actually "kicked"? To me, 75mm looks "right", 100mm looks "too long"...but an extra 25mm at 15° elevation works out to (dusts off trigonometry brain cells...) hypotenuse is opposite the 90 degree angle, so the line of the board on the deck is the adjacent, thus;

a/h = cosine 15°

rearrange to;

a = (cosine 15°) * h = =0.966 * 25 = 24.15mm

Depending where we pivot within the board (top, middle or bottom) that could easily replace my "short" 20mm.

Sorry for the maths lesson, but can anyone check my reasoning and confirm that
1. yes I have gone insane but more importantly
2. my numbers are right.

Thanks for listening, I know this was a rant; but hopefully, worthwhile in the long run.

Yeah im not building mine that deep. I just want it close. I'm too old to worry about all that.

 

[Grey Area]

*ahem* sorry *ahem*

Might have been a tad ranty...my "grand ambition" is somewhat limited by the fact that even the movie doesn't get it right; here are three stills from the chase scene, covering a time period of less than three seconds...the orange arrows are mine (obviously)...

So yeah this "definitive guide" I want to produce is going to be something of a challenge when as far as the movie is concerned, there isn't even a definitive hoverboard!
It is NOT however, going to stop me trying!

 

[BeaminScotty]

I've no wish to offend anyone who has put in the effort that is so obvious here, but I've come to the conclusion that none of the layouts for the decals are accurate enough for my OCD. This is my failing and no one else's, but I keep noticing little differences like;

I like the way your brain works!!!

Let me throw some more monkey wrenches at you-

There were a number of Mattel hoverboards made for production, each made for specific purposes like stunts, hero shots, spares, etc. EACH ONE WAS UNIQUE. I found a number of really good photo references from famous prop auction houses that had a hero (wood) and a stunt rig board (foam) with cable and harness along with it.

I based my graphics layouts as much as I could on these, but again- the dimensions of the board I have are all wrong so that messes with the layout.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with! When I get board #2 done, we can swap stories!

Here’s the references I used as much as I could:

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[BeaminScotty]

More auction/display photos of screen used boards:

 

[Grey Area]

Well for now, this is how my brain works...it's 5am, but...totally worth it!

I started off with the yellow flash at 30° and went from there. Since it seems we've agreed there will always be a board that's different, I based most of my choices on aesthetics. Things like making the white lines meet at a point...consistent widths of colour bands at either 25mm (~1 inch) or 12.5mm (~½ inch) for ease of decoration.

More by luck than judgement, this particular design fits perfectly into my 200x710mm board (allowing for the 7.5mm lost all around to the chamfer, the dimensions of each of the above elements is 185mm x 695mm, Except for the 0.2mm outline, which I only added to the shapes so you can see the white one!)

Will see if I can get the back decal done the same way tomorrow. I have a second printed board now, in three sections that dovetail very nicely, largest part about 250mm. I left the indentation for the other pieces off this time just to give people the option. Next board (probably my last for a while as I'll probably use up the last of my pink PLA) I am hoping will feature your requested 3mm (~1/8th inch) raised surround on the upper side.

I just realised now that I have accurate svg files, I could add guides to the actual printed board to show where the decals should go...I'll investigate that at some point....

By the way I know I've not added any "Mattel" stickers, but that's because I'm working on a modified version for the wedding. Please have alook at the image and point out any mistakes - I'm bound to have missed something!

Right. Sleep.

 

[Grey Area]

Who can sleep when ideas arrive?

A roughed up idea of a "bas relief" board, with decoration guides inset.

Needs work, but a a definite possibility...

 

[Grey Area]

Urgh, I'm paying for my late night yesterday. However, today i have made both progress and concessions...

Progress;
I'm now happy with the top decal layout, I've added the Mattel stars, done a little bit of tidying up and am actually starting to add decorative pieces to my board.
I've solved my Lenticular problem! It has involved yet another step but has multiple advantages. What I have had to do is buy the holographic found here;

10 Sheets A4 Printable Self Adhesive Water Bubble Holographic Vinyl Ov

10 Sheets A4 Printable Self Adhesive Water Bubble Holographic Vinyl Overlay Sheets Laminate Stickers Beautiful Holographic Self-Adhesive Vinyl Sheets in holographic Water Bubble Pattern This holographic vinyl has a smooth surface, which reflects different colours when moved in the light A4...

syntego.co.uk

But BEFORE I can do anything else with it I have to run it through my Laminator. This is because the top coating on the holo sheet is RIDICULOUSLY water sensitive, and will go soft and cloudy if it so much as gets splashed. Since my next step is to overlay it with the pink window film, found here;

Pink 50 Transparent Colourful Window Film Optically Clear Tint

Pink 50 Window Film, a clear glass tint, optically coloured clear transparent, colourful Window Film sold by the metre off the roll

activewindowfilms.co.uk

then most people know that spraying the surface to be applied to with (very) diluted dish soap helps accurate positioning. Without it it's nigh impossible to chase out any trapped air bubbles. The laminate protects the holo sheet's coating, allowing perfect application of the film.

It has other bonuses too...obviously the laminate protects the sheet meaning if it takes a splash at a Comicon or other event it will survive. But also - the laminate sticks to the backing sheet for the holo too, making it FAR easier to remove.

Another possible benefit...I'm can't be sure, but I think the laminate's extra depth improves the 3D effect - but It could just be that I'm so relieved to have found a solution that I'm seeing things that aren't really there!

 

[Grey Area]

More auction/display photos of screen used boards:

Thank you SO much for all the photos, that's really clarified things for me.

That said, I have a question. Velcro (or hook and loop, if you prefer) has two parts which I will refer to as "spiky" and "fluffy". I can see (thanks mostly to your superb high res photos) that the movie props use the "spiky" part on the boards.

I understand why it was necessary for the movie, but at a Comicon, someone wandering around with a prop that "snags" on any woolly or fluffy material is going to be two things very quickly. 1. Annoyed and 2. Unpopular.

Do prop makers switch out for the fluffy part to avoid this problem?

 

[BeaminScotty]

Thank you SO much for all the photos, that's really clarified things for me.

That said, I have a question. Velcro (or hook and loop, if you prefer) has two parts which I will refer to as "spiky" and "fluffy". I can see (thanks mostly to your superb high res photos) that the movie props use the "spiky" part on the boards.

I understand why it was necessary for the movie, but at a Comicon, someone wandering around with a prop that "snags" on any woolly or fluffy material is going to be two things very quickly. 1. Annoyed and 2. Unpopular.

Do prop makers switch out for the fluffy part to avoid this problem?

I’m not a con guy, so hard to say without having been. For me personally, the Velcro isn’t that much of a pain to clean out. I have two dogs and two kids under 11, so finding a clean surface to even work on is a challenge. I can’t sweat the Velcro in my house.

 

[Grey Area]

Not bad for a first try. Still a few things to add on the other side - Velcro in 1.5" width and coloured seems very hard to obtain...

 

[BeaminScotty]

Not bad for a first try. Still a few things to add on the other side - Velcro in 1.5" width and coloured seems very hard to obtain...

I finally got “hover board” added. The only thing I have left is the lenticular trim around the outer edge.