Denix Mauser Paint Advice

stevechanks

New Member
Hello all, new guy here but not new to making stuff.

Paint won't stick to my Denix C96. I'm building Luke's ESB Bespin DL-44 and my paint job scratches off very easily.
I used several light coats of Krylon Fusion, All-In-One, Satin Black.

To prep I stripped the factory paint with various sandpaper and steel wool down to the bare aluminum. Washed, dried and cleaned it thoroughly with denatured alcohol. After several light coats I let it dry overnight. The paint looked fantastic but scratched off with little to no effort. I used the same paint on my Warmachine scope and flash hider and they're holding up perfectly. Any advice or pointing me to a larger discussion would be awesome.

-Steve
 
I primer everythin. Primer and paint is something I don’t believe in. The more color a paint has the more ‘diluted’ it is. Primer it with an etching primer. All that being saI’d, I’m not a krylon fan.
 
I primer everythin. Primer and paint is something I don’t believe in. The more color a paint has the more ‘diluted’ it is. Primer it with an etching primer. All that being saI’d, I’m not a krylon fan.
Thanks!
Would Rustoleum Self Etching Primer work?
 
Have you considered stripping bare and bluing it? I built a TFA DL44 and blued it then hit it with a satin clear coat to protect it. It’s a durable finish.
 
Have you considered stripping bare and bluing it? I built a TFA DL44 and blued it then hit it with a satin clear coat to protect it. It’s a durable finish.
I haven't considered bluing mostly because i read mixed results of the effect on the Denix. I do have Aluminum Black on its way and was going to test that on an interior spot before full on attempt.
 
I can’t speak to the Denix because mine were airsoft replicas so probably aluminum. But good luck!
 
Here's my airsoft hero and the Bespin blaster before I stripped the shoddy paint job off.

IMG_4951.jpg
 
Yeah I recommend stripping the pistol and using aluminum black. I have yet to find a durable paint that doesn’t chip, over time, on a Denix—even with multiple coats of primer.

Plus, photographic evidence suggests that the Bespin “live fire” DL-44’s were not painted and were traditional blued gun metal.
 
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I am confused! I just got a denim the JY and want to build a hero Greedo killer and am seeing so many different variations I don’t know what to buy scope, flash hider and grill wise! Oh my! Those are nice blasters.
 
I am confused! I just got a denim the JY and want to build a hero Greedo killer and am seeing so many different variations I don’t know what to buy scope, flash hider and grill wise! Oh my! Those are nice blasters.
I'm new to posting to RPF but I've been lurking for years. Search the forums for the build youre doing and just follow the convo. You'll find all the parts and links you need.
 
I'm new to posting to RPF but I've been lurking for years. Search the forums for the build youre doing and just follow the convo. You'll find all the parts and links you need.
Funny you say that as I was doing that as you posted! I have all I need in a cart, I was just pointing out that there seem to be some variations. Perhaps that is personal choices folks make.
 
Funny you say that as I was doing that as you posted! I have all I need in a cart, I was just pointing out that there seem to be some variations. Perhaps that is personal choices folks make.
It’s all about your commitment to screen accuracy. I’ve never needed to be 100% accurate, more like 80% mixed with personal preference and flair.
 
I rubbed "Ebony" Rub'n buff together with graphite powder on mine. The look is close to my blued steel parts but not exact.
Might be too shiny for some people's taste though.
 
Is that permanent? Sound like it would rub off with handling it
Well, it is a wax, so it feel a bit as if the metal had been oiled. Personally, I can live with some wear on the edges - that would only add to realism. But it does not flake like scratched paint would.
I noticed the "Ebony" Rub'n buff was a bit "crumbly" compared to other varieties though.

I would recommend doing a test run on something cheap before committing to using any type of paint/finish technique that you haven't used before.
 
Update:
I stripped the Denix and primed with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer. Let it cure overnight then hit it with my Krylon Satin Black and let that cure for 48 hours. The paint looks great and has a slightly better adhesion but still can be scraped with a fingernail. All other aluminum parts took the paint extremely well. Calling it a day and going to weather it up and assemble. Worse comes to worst I can always break her back down and try some other application in the future. I'll post finished pics later this week.

Thanks everyone for your help
 
Paint doesn't like to stick to aluminum. I've had luck sand blasting the aluminum and then using an automotive grade self etch primer, like SEM brand.
 
Paint doesn't like to stick to aluminum. I've had luck sand blasting the aluminum and then using an automotive grade self etch primer, like SEM brand.
Indeed, but the Denix isn't aluminium; it is cast in a zinc alloy called Zamak that is heavier than aluminium, giving the gun a weight closer to steel.

Don't be misled by posts saying that Aluminium Black works on the Denix. It just happens to work on it too.
BTW. I think that works better on Zamak than on actual aluminium even. And it also takes various Gun Blue for steel. And I think I saw a post saying that Brass Black works as well. But it is difficult to apply these liquids (on any metal) and get an even result.
 

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