Darkside501st's Iron Man Mk VII pepakura files - Password in First Post

[darkside501st]

Finally finished a build of a helmet that I think will fit (.98) - it seems to at least. I'm about to coat it and will do the fiber glass/resin this weekend. but it leads me to 2 more questions. And I couldn't really find answers anywhere.

1)the model comes in 3 pieces - what techniques work best to attach the faceplate and jaw to the helmet? Do they have to be permanent and if so how to separate them afterward? (dremmel tool I assume?)

2)I've seen several notices to cutting out the back to fit the helmet on your head after attaching the jaw and the faceplate. Where is the best place to cut it and what are the best options to re-attach it once you put the helmet on? Magnet? clips? None of the hundreds of pictures of helmets that I've seen show this at all.

thanks!

matthew

Most people either glue the parts together or use mini binding clips to hold them together. If you put strips of tin foil between them then it might also assist in separating them later after they have been hardened and smoothed. Most people either cut them apart with a coping saw blade or with a dremel tool or both.

Check out ProjectEarth7's helmet build thread. There are a lot of helpful pictures and details if you read it. The lower section on the back of the helmet is usually what is removed and reattached with magnets.

Yes I want to build a helmet around the measurements that I have but which should I take from V2 helmet? Since .88 is the smallest one...

If you don't want to build the tester helmet then you still need to open it in Pep Designer and use the measurement tool to find the scale you need. Start with a scale of .94 and measure from one side to the other (ear to ear) then if that matches the measurements of your head with some wiggle room then you are good to go. The helmet should fit snugly but keep in mind that if you are going to add resin and fiberglass then the inside of the helmet will get thicker which is why you should add a little room to your head measurement. So once you have matched the measurements the look to see what scale you are at and download the closed scale to it that is on my skydrive.

my head is a little over 23" but the helmet even at .97 scale is too small. 1.05 send to fit so far but not done with it yet. am I making this to big? this will be my fourth attempt.

It sounds like you might be trying to fit the helmet over your head without cutting off the back part of it. 1.05 should be pretty big on you and once you have it on your head I would imagine that you would have a lot of extra room inside the helmet.

Hi all

I finished pepping my second V2 helmet - I then scaled the test helmet to the same scale so I could use it to create some internal bracing. However, the lines/points on the test helmet not seem to easily relate to the V2, making brace measurements more guesswork than anything else.

Is there any way I/we could get a V2 that could be opened in designer so that accurate measurements could be taken? It wouldn't need to be unfolded - Just scalable and measureable. If not, I'm going to have to scrap yet another V2 helmet, as just clamping the three parts together warps it out of shape

You have every right to say no - I just want to make the best MK7 that I can.

Thankyou.

I responded to your PM. Take note that I will not be releasing the V2 files for Pep Designer due to the risk of my 3D models being ripped off. That being said if you are using 110lbs cardstock then you should not need all the cross braces that you are referring to. At most you could put a couple on the opening of the helmet.

 

[darkside501st]

Site messed up and made me double post. :rolleyes

 

[Andrea Laura]

Hello everyone, I am tall 6'3 ".
at that scale should be set models for foam?

 

[Talshadar]

Most people either glue the parts together or use mini binding clips to hold them together. If you put strips of tin foil between them then it might also assist in separating them later after they have been hardened and smoothed. Most people either cut them apart with a coping saw blade or with a dremel tool or both.

Check out ProjectEarth7's helmet build thread. There are a lot of helpful pictures and details if you read it. The lower section on the back of the helmet is usually what is removed and reattached with magnets.

Thanks I hot glued them, I never thought of the tin foil lol Oh well, an excuse to buy a dremel I'll see if I can find the post you're talking about. Thanks again for the awesome files and the hard work in preparing them and in answering all of our questions. Because I live in a condo I'm going to try using Smooth-Cast instead of the fiberglass. Still looking for an alternative for the bondo - someone suggested using joint compound but I think it would be too brittle. If I can get things working the way I want to I'll post a thread.

Matthew

 

[darkside501st]

Thanks I hot glued them, I never thought of the tin foil lol Oh well, an excuse to buy a dremel I'll see if I can find the post you're talking about. Thanks again for the awesome files and the hard work in preparing them and in answering all of our questions. Because I live in a condo I'm going to try using Smooth-Cast instead of the fiberglass. Still looking for an alternative for the bondo - someone suggested using joint compound but I think it would be too brittle. If I can get things working the way I want to I'll post a thread.

Matthew

Joint compound works great if you don't really care about the master and you are just going to make molds and casts but it is brittle and can most definately crack and flake off ruining a lot of hard work. Bondo will hold like nothing else. Other auto body fillers will work as well. Most are really hard to sand down and get perfect. It is a lot more work than the joint compound.

 

[laf770]

Most people either glue the parts together or use mini binding clips to hold them together. If you put strips of tin foil between them then it might also assist in separating them later after they have been hardened and smoothed. Most people either cut them apart with a coping saw blade or with a dremel tool or both.

Check out ProjectEarth7's helmet build thread. There are a lot of helpful pictures and details if you read it. The lower section on the back of the helmet is usually what is removed and reattached with magnets.



If you don't want to build the tester helmet then you still need to open it in Pep Designer and use the measurement tool to find the scale you need. Start with a scale of .94 and measure from one side to the other (ear to ear) then if that matches the measurements of your head with some wiggle room then you are good to go. The helmet should fit snugly but keep in mind that if you are going to add resin and fiberglass then the inside of the helmet will get thicker which is why you should add a little room to your head measurement. So once you have matched the measurements the look to see what scale you are at and download the closed scale to it that is on my skydrive.



It sounds like you might be trying to fit the helmet over your head without cutting off the back part of it. 1.05 should be pretty big on you and once you have it on your head I would imagine that you would have a lot of extra room inside the helmet.



I responded to your PM. Take note that I will not be releasing the V2 files for Pep Designer due to the risk of my 3D models being ripped off. That being said if you are using 110lbs cardstock then you should not need all the cross braces that you are referring to. At most you could put a couple on the opening of the helmet.

not trying to get it to fit over my head without cutting. maybe my head is just super wide. lol.......I have to cut holes for my ears right? this project started out fun and now its driving me crazy

 

[Talshadar]

Joint compound works great if you don't really care about the master and you are just going to make molds and casts but it is brittle and can most definately crack and flake off ruining a lot of hard work. Bondo will hold like nothing else. Other auto body fillers will work as well. Most are really hard to sand down and get perfect. It is a lot more work than the joint compound.

Bummer.. I was hoping for "joint compound totally works" lol I don't have a problem with the work - it's the toxicity of the bondo. I live in a condo and it's -20C outside right now so i can't work on my balcony lol. I'm basically trying to find alternatives lol

I wasn't planning on making casts of the helmet, I want to wear it LOL

Thanks for the pointers to pRoJectEarth7's - there really are a ton of detailed photos and info. Will definitely help!!

 

[Talshadar]

Hmm, I was doing some googling and I saw some links talking about using Creative Paperclay when bondo isn't available. Supposedly it dries hard and takes paint without a problem and is non-toxic. I tried searching on the forum but the only things I found were talking about making props. Anyone here have experience or opinions about it? I really can't use bondo in my condo so need options.

matt

 

[ShaunDark80]

Hi All

I made up some plates in the shape of the ear sections, and sandwiched a couple of layers of fibre glass between these. Once they were set, I clamped the helmet down on a flat surface, glues on some bamboo skewers, and pulled the helmet into the right shape. One I was happy, I did the outer resin coat, and a quick rondo inner slush, and voila;



It's still not 100% square, but it's as close as I can get. Most importantly, the internal measurements all look good, so this should fit. I'll reinforce it with fibre glass and some carbon fibre over the next couple of days, and then crack on with smoothing the thing out. I'm eager to try it on, but don't want to crack the thing open before bondo.

 

[FishHands]

Most people either glue the parts together or use mini binding clips to hold them together. If you put strips of tin foil between them then it might also assist in separating them later after they have been hardened and smoothed. Most people either cut them apart with a coping saw blade or with a dremel tool or both.

Check out ProjectEarth7's helmet build thread. There are a lot of helpful pictures and details if you read it. The lower section on the back of the helmet is usually what is removed and reattached with magnets.



If you don't want to build the tester helmet then you still need to open it in Pep Designer and use the measurement tool to find the scale you need. Start with a scale of .94 and measure from one side to the other (ear to ear) then if that matches the measurements of your head with some wiggle room then you are good to go. The helmet should fit snugly but keep in mind that if you are going to add resin and fiberglass then the inside of the helmet will get thicker which is why you should add a little room to your head measurement. So once you have matched the measurements the look to see what scale you are at and download the closed scale to it that is on my skydrive.



It sounds like you might be trying to fit the helmet over your head without cutting off the back part of it. 1.05 should be pretty big on you and once you have it on your head I would imagine that you would have a lot of extra room inside the helmet.



I responded to your PM. Take note that I will not be releasing the V2 files for Pep Designer due to the risk of my 3D models being ripped off. That being said if you are using 110lbs cardstock then you should not need all the cross braces that you are referring to. At most you could put a couple on the opening of the helmet.

I don't have the measuring option?

 

[SOUTHPAW]

I don't have the measuring option?
http://i42.tinypic.com/2nr20yt.png

Get the newest update for Designer.

 

[FishHands]

Ok so at scale .94 the distance is 177.19mm = 18cm and my head is 15-16cm wide..And yes I will be adding resin and maybe electronics on the inside.
Should that work for me or is it best to get .95 helmet?

 

[darkside501st]

Ok so at scale .94 the distance is 177.19mm = 18cm and my head is 15-16cm wide..And yes I will be adding resin and maybe electronics on the inside.
Should that work for me or is it best to get .95 helmet?

That is why people build the tester helmet to see if what they think will work will actually work. It is a lot less work to build the tester helmet than the real helmet so if you make it and find out that you need to go a little bigger then you just saved yourself a lot of time and work. If you make it and find out that it is perfect then you spent a little more time building the tester when you didn't have to but now you know that you have the right scale and you won't have to second guess yourself the whole time you are making the real helmet.

 

[FishHands]

That is why people build the tester helmet to see if what they think will work will actually work. It is a lot less work to build the tester helmet than the real helmet so if you make it and find out that you need to go a little bigger then you just saved yourself a lot of time and work. If you make it and find out that it is perfect then you spent a little more time building the tester when you didn't have to but now you know that you have the right scale and you won't have to second guess yourself the whole time you are making the real helmet.

Ohhhh now I see! Tester helmet has way less pieces... I thought it was like building the real one thats why I didn't wanna build it.
Thanks for support all I'll build it and see how it goes. Thanks!

 

[Syrus54]

Hey DS,

Any word on getting the v2 files knocked out before 2014?

no pressure or anything. In February, This thread'll have been started 2 years ago.

 

[Murdoch]

Get the newest update for Designer.

If i have the paid version already can i update the version i have for free? GM

 

[SOUTHPAW]

I believe so. I did not have to pay for it again.

 

[GhostMinion]

If i have the paid version already can i update the version i have for free? GM

You don't have to pay for updates. The newest version gives you the option upon installation to set auto updates.

 

[FerrousBueller]

Pepping out the tester helmet has another benefit - You can have a little sidekick! I'll probably just very roughly resin and paint the tester for him to play with as I finish my build:

 

[FerrousBueller]

I responded to your PM. Take note that I will not be releasing the V2 files for Pep Designer due to the risk of my 3D models being ripped off. That being said if you are using 110lbs cardstock then you should not need all the cross braces that you are referring to. At most you could put a couple on the opening of the helmet.

I hope things are smoothing out for you. I know you've got a lot on your plate. Definitely looking forward to the rest of V2 when you get a chance to push them out. I've finally convinced the wife that this is going to be much cooler than a bunch of boxes with holes cut in them. I'm hoping to have a suit completed by next Halloween. Meanwhile, I think I'll do some of the V1 pieces to experiment with my electronics and servo layouts.