Generally cracks should be treated like cracks in windshields. If you can, you should sand or drill out the damage until you get down below the crack to virgin, pristine material. Cracks propagate with any load on them at all (the sharp edges create stress risers) , but if you remove and patch back on top, you shouldn't have the crack reappear at a later date. Drummers do a similar thing with symbols that form cracks by drilling a hole in front of the crack. When the crack meets the hole, the hole creates smoother edges that the stress can more easily transition across, decreasing the risk of further crack propagation.
Having said that, filling in the existing crack is the next best thing, though I would consider 'opening up' the crack with at least some sanding so that the epoxy can get down in the crack and actually bond to both sides of the crack. Otherwise you'll end up with just a 'paint' of epoxy that isn't bonded and can flake off. I might even consider opening up a 'v' groove in the helmet surface again for better bonding and to remove an pre-stressing the crack could be creating.
If the crack goes all the way through you helmet (inside to outside surface) and you don't feel like completely cutting out the crack, definitely look at getting some fiberglass cloth or strips to do a reinforcing patch on the inside surface.
Also consider some additives to the epoxy if you need more 'bulk' like bondo. microballoons (tiny hallow glass spheres) are great for just decreasing weight and as a general 'filler'. Cabosil (or fumed silica) is a great thickener (increases viscosity) tends to be better for more 'structural bulk' than just microballoons, and I think it tends to be cheaper too.
FYI this is a boat engineer/builders opinion/stance on fiberglass repairs. There are plenty of ways of skinning this cat and I'm known for going for the most involved/expensive/overkill solution
anyone been able to contact them?
@shween Sorry for the late response, but hopefully this will help.
"Where can i find the sequencer that you used."
The LED chaser can be purchased by sending an email to Donnie (donniedj@anothercoilgunsite.com)
"How did you program it?"
I didn't. Donnie does the programming. All you do is tell him what patterns you want programmed. Go to the bottom of this page for links to all the available patterns.
Plasmado Projects
"I found this and was wondering if I could build it and then you had the code for your chaser you could upload? (and show us how to download it to the chip
I'm sure you can use this, but since I don't hold the programming of the chasers I'm using, I cannot be of any help. That's why I'm using the chasers from Donnie because he has done all the programming, and he offers a wide variety of patterns.
"What exactly does each part do. (From the battery to the chaser, to the transistor board, to the actual units)"
I would suggest reading this tutorial Plasmado Projects
In a nut shell, the chasers don't have enough 'juice' to run many LEDs, so the transistors are used as switches. The Chaser provides the signals to the transistors for switching and the LEDs get the full RAW power from the battery pack not the chasers.
"What does each part of your batter pack do. I noticed 2 switches and a small odd looking black cube on it. Is it possible to use removable batteries and how?"
One switch controls power to the main LED matrix while the other controls power to the side boards. They're independent of each other. I could have wired everything to one switch, so it is simply personal preference.
Since there are two independent switches, I have two independent power cables. That 'cube' you're referring to is nothing more than two 1x3 connector housings glued together. In my application, my LIPO batteries can be removed by simply disconnecting the power controller. You can easily use a project box and fit 6xAA batteries if you want.
Where did you get those flat LED's from?
I bought mine from Ebay. Just do a search for "2x5x7 Rectangle LED"
