Creating Large Faux Metal Helmet - Need Help With Finish

Hey all,

So I'm planning on recreating this helmet, overall the construction shouldn't be too much of an issue as I have the 3d model to reference and I plan on using a large acrylic globe to keep things light. But what I'm concerned about is the large somewhat polished metal surface and achieving a uniform finish that reads well enough.

I know of iron powder paints and rub n' buff, but have never used either personally.

Would anyone be able to give recommendations or tips for achieving a similar finish?


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Buy two of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Fat-Daddios-...p_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=aluminum+sphere+8"&qid=1622495579&sr=8-8

Dremel off (or bandsaw) the lips (edges) off

Drill and tap holes to hold the spikes. Also leave a hole to pour in resin. Thread in the screws.

Tape the sphere halves together. Pour in quick curing resin with metal powder. The tape will stop the resin from getting everywhere, and since it is metal look8ng, your work is half way done.

Sloppily apply XTC With rust bits and oxidized bit of metal in it

Rubb n buff away.

Attach spikes to screws
 
Ah interesting, so you'd recommend pulling a resin cast of two halves rather than just buying something like this? 14 in. Clear Acrylic Globe - with 5.25 in. Neckless Opening - American 3202-14020-003 - Light Fixture Replacement Shades - Amazon.com
Yes, but it is YOUR build, not mine.

Just giving you an ideas Also, 8" hemis are still cheaper, and more legit (ohhh, real metal!).

Acrylic is nice, but if it cracks, GAME OVER. Start over. If aluminum is dropped, hammer it back. You can tap screws into aluminum as well.

I noticed the seam on the ball, perfect for a sloppy tape job and then slush cast with smooth on 325 with metal powder.

But it is your build. Looks neato-creepy.

Maybe make spikes out of silicone, so you dont take an eye out, and dont herniate a disc in your neck if a spike grabs a doorframe while you are walking
 
Oh! I think I misunderstood. What would be the point of using aluminum if the resin is slush-cast inside? You're saying keep the aluminum exterior but coat the inside with metal resin? If the resin is to keep it together I understand but why the metal powder resin in that case?
 
Oh, and to clarify, use the bowls for the outside. The outside is aluminum, use the resin on the inside to join the two halves.

Use Xtc epoxy with metal bits for rusted , puffy rust illusion on the outside.

Also, you have the rub n buff idea
 
The metal powder resin will help make the equator look legit. It will also hold the two hemis together. The resin will also hold the bolts in place that you use to anchor the spikes.

Those spikes are gonna catch on something.
 
Gotcha! Thanks so much, definitely a good route I could take. The spikes I'll probably make out of a sheet of plastic and roll then anchor the base somehow.

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Hahah this is way more help than I expected. Thank you again. I was wondering how to do the weld seams, but I was thinking hot glue might get that nice bulgy look

And thank you it's the original model lol
 

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